Oldsmobile Cutlass

A repair manual is a must. Check your local autoparts or library for a detailed explanation. Brakes keep people alive so if you're unsure, take it somewhere for safety's sake. Mine has disc brakes front and rear. The rear pads are more difficult to replace in my opinion so I will describe this in more detail. I would not buy the best grade for the rears since they only do 25 percent of the work. I would opt for the best I can afford for the front, however. The calipers have to be removed since they straddle the brake rotors and house the brake pads. Mine are held on by 18mm bolts. The calipers need to be suspended by tying them up to something solid to ease pressure on the rubber brake line once the calipers are removed. A coat hangar works well. Put a lug nut back on to keep the rotor rigid. The old pads may just fall out on the rears. Examine the rotor- run a fingernail over the braking surfaces. It should be fairly smoothe. If your car's brake pads were severely worn and making a screeching sound, the rotor may have to be replaced (in pairs). This is easily done and they are not expensive. If you are installing a new rotor, clean it to remove any oils, including fingerprints. Now, the caliper's piston must be completely pushed back into the caliper to make room for the new pads so they can fit over the rotor. I use a 6" C clamp and an old brake pad to protect the piston. I also remove the brake master cylinder cap to allow the fluid to rise. Screw the clamp and push the piston until it cannot go further. Try to keep the axis of the C clamp screw straight on the piston. Now, using some long needlenose pliers or something similar screw the piston clockwise into the housing. Once this is completed, the piston needs to be rotated so the indentions in the piston align with the nipples on the back of the brake pad. They fit into each other. The pad with the metal tang goess on the outside half. I strongly recommend a service manual or a qualified service technician for brake work. Don't rely on this.

most cars use about two cans of r12 refrigerant but a qualified tech should be checking your a/c

You can find a detailed vacuum hose schematic for a 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme in the car's owner's manual. You can also check with local auto stores.

There was a V-6 and 4-cyl. You can find your [http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/Engine_Firing_Orders.htm Answer Here] Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

To remove rear spark plugs 96 olds and the like. first remove anything in your way from the top, be careful not to break electrical connection.

Youll need a swivel ratchet with a long arm on it. 1 inch and 2 inch 3/8 extensions.Patience.

The hardest part is removing the wires. I recomend changing the wire because chances are ull rip one out of its boot. (they were tight).

Thats it , there was nothing special just a very very tight place to work.

Sometimes the computer goes through several "cycles" before it clears a code. If the Oxygen sensor and Map sensor codes don't clear within a few starting cycles it's possible that one or both were bad when you put them in. Read the codes again and see what it says.

located by the glove box, close to the fuse box as well. There are 2 flashers. I read many different tips, but finally found my turn signal flasher right on top of the ash tray assembly. Take out ashtray. Remove 4 small hex head screws to remove the assembly that the ashtray slides in to. I found the turn signal flasher in a clip on the top side of that assembly. The hazard flasher was to the outside of the glove compartment. You have to remove the glove box. You will see a wiring harness on the outboard side, right above the light that lights the area where the passenger's feet are. The flasher is plugged in on the side that you cannot see. You will never know it is there, if it is not working and "ticking." Best way to look for it is probably with a "mirror on a stick." Good luck hope this saves you having to disassemble your entire dash, like me...

Check NADA old cars

It's behind the glove box.

OPEN THE GLOVE BOX. YOU WILL SEE A SMALL DOOR TO THE Left. that's the hiding place of the fuses..

Through low pressure port Buy a kit a Wal-Mart or auto parts comes with instructions

A/C Service ports are located under air filter box-remove air filter box and flex tube going

to engine-be careful-there are a few sensors in the area-also when re installing flex tube be sure it in installed correctly-air leaks will cause no start/rough idle/ ect. conditions

In the gas tank

In the fuel tank

GM never kept those types of records so there's honestly no way to tell for sure.

As long as it is a B.O.P. transmission, yes. It will not bolt up to a Chevy engine without an adapter plate.

0.060" on the 307 cid engine.

It's on the back near the trunk.

I recently had to repair the rearview mirror on an '02 Nissan Xterra. It may be different, but perhaps it used the same technique. The mirror is connected to a metal "button" which is glued onto the windshield. In my case the glue had come undone and I had to remove the button from the mirror in order to re-affix it to the window. You can probably get the rearview off the button while still on the windshield in the same way. From the bottom of the housing there's a small notch where you can see the button and a small tab of spring steel. Use a hack saw blade or something else flat and long and slide it in between the tab and the button. Push it in around .75" until you bump up against another spring tab. Continue to push against it and it will release the lock. While pushing on it pull the mirror upwards off the button.

1 2 3 4 5 6 clockwise

follow the positive battery cable down to the starter solinoid which is mounted to the starter motor, the starter motor should be on the same side as the battery is. good luck

BOP stands for Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac. They all share the same rear of engine bolt pattern and the transmissions will interchange between those brands.

If you have to pump accelerator alot before it will fire, you have a leak. If you loosen fuel inlet nut after engine is warmed up, you should get a "spray" of fuel, not a dribble. If you have a dribble, this would be a vac leak allowing fuel to drain back to pump.

Depends on the vehicle and driving conditions. The best place to look for the answer is in the owners manual. However, a rule of thumb for older cars is every 25,000 - 50,000 miles. Newer cars can go longer, my wifes Honda is recommended to change at over 100,000 miles, and new Mustangs have 'sealed' transmissions, there isn't even a dipstick to check the fluid (forget changing it!)

That depends on whether you have a 2 or 4 door car. The 2 door car use a slim sealed beam headlight system (more on the later) while the 4 door uses either a drop in 9006 bulb for low beam or a 9005 bulb for high beam. I'll start with the 4 door as it is more common and easier to replace. First you'll need to disconnect the wire harness from the burned out bulb (with the headlights off of course). To do so you might need to use a small screwdriver to gently pry up on the retaining tab on the rear of the bulb. Next turn the bulb counter clockwise (looking from the rear of the bulb)approximately a quarter turn. The bulb should then be free to remove. Insert a new bulb by reversing the above steps being very careful not to touch the glass part of the bulb. It is a halogen bulb which burns very hot and by simply touching it you can transfer oils from your fingers to the bulb thereby creating a "cool" spot on the bulb. When you turn the headlight on the glass expands slightly because of the heat generated but it won't expand as much at the "cool" spot you created and this could cause enough stress in the thin fragile glass to cause it to break. If you do inadvertently tough the glass of the bulb wipe it clean with isopropyl alcohol before installing. Now the 2 door cars use a slim profile "sealed beam" headlight. It is not actually a true sealed beam headlight because all it really is is a 9005 or 9006 bulb simply glued into the back of a glass housing unit. I won't go into the actual mechanics of how to remove the "sealed beam" unit (you might be able to skip removing it if you want to take a stab at replacing the bulb only in place) but I would recommend removing the whole glass unit. Once you remove it you have the choice of buying a new "sealed beam" unit (rather expensive- probably 5 times the cost of a replacement bulb) or buying a 9006-low beam or 9005-high beam bulb. As mentioned above the bulb is simply glued into the back of the bulb. The glue isn't particularly strong and you should be able to carefully pry the old bulb out using a flat blade screwdriver or other suitable instrumental. DO THIS CAREFULLY OR YOU WILL RUIN THE PLASTIC INSERT. NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BULB BASE because if you put it back in differently the wire harness might not reach. Once you have old bulb removed use some high heat silicone or other suitable adhesive and glue the new bulb in place giving caution to the warning under the 4 door headlight system. Worth a shot versus buying a very expensive unit in my opinion.