Power Steering

Normally in most cars, when it is cold outside, your power steering fluid is thick, thus, needs more presure to push it through the pump and lines. Same with any oil, in your engine. Once this fluid has warmed up, and you've made a few turns it should work properly. If this continues to happen, check your power steering fluid level, or have it looked at by a trusted mechanic. If you lose power steering, all together, it's not fun.

To drain the power steering fluid on a 1991 Mercury Topaz, locate the drain plug at the bottom of the power steering pump reservoir. Place a drain pan underneath to catch the fluid and then remove the plug to allow the fluid to drain out completely. Be sure to properly dispose of the old fluid according to local regulations.

To bleed the power steering system of a Massey Ferguson 650 diesel tractor, you should fill the reservoir with the recommended fluid, start the engine, and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times. Make sure to check the fluid level periodically and top up if needed. Repeat the process until there are no air bubbles in the system and the steering feels smooth.

You can find illustrations of the power steering system for a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo in the vehicle's repair manual or by searching online for technical diagrams specific to that model. Auto parts stores or online platforms that sell car repair manuals may also have detailed illustrations available.

According to the 2000 Ford Explorer Owner Guide :

( Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used as the power

steering fluid )

According to the 2000 Ford Explorer owners manual ( Motorcraft MERCON

automatic transmission fluid ) is used in the power steering

Nissan Rogue 2008 does not use power steering fluid so you will not find a reservoir for that. Rogue's power steering is operated my electric motors.

Assuming its a power rack... I found it is best to remove it from the car. Use rubber pattern (copy) replacements NOT the genuine Peugeot ones which seem to be of a plastic like material. The difficult one is the boot with equal sized ends that needs to be passed over the power steering ram stud. This stud cannot be removed by the home mechanic.

Remove the old boot. Place the new boot in a jug of boiling water for a minute or two to soften it, then feed (stretch) over the stud using a spoon to cover the end of the stud and prevent it from piercing the new boot. I replaced mine last week on my 95 GTXD this way but also changed the inner ball-joints and found that the small rubber that fits over the ball joint is held in place by the collar that houses the ram stud. I simply cut around the collar and used mastic to re seal the rubber to the collar after fitting the new inner ball-joint

Hope this helps you out. My workshop manual tells you to take the car to a dealer!

The pulley has holes in it so you can stick a socket through on top of the bolt head. Sometimes the socket doesnt fit squaely on bolt head so you may just have to take power steering pulley off first to get to the two bolts that run throught the top and bottom of pump. This way might be the easiest. And of course you have to unloosen the lines that runs to it and it will come off. So they are only two bolts to take off, and you have to use a socket and a wrench, or two wrenches to remove bolt and nut.

I litterally just did this yesterday. The book will tell you to remove the entire rack, but you dont need to. Use a floor jack and place it in the center of the front K-member cross bar. Jack up the car untill the front tires are off the ground, place blocks of wood back behind the front tires on the frame rails so it will support the car when the jack is lowered. Next remove the air box, dog bone mount, and both fans. drain about 1.5 galons of coolent from the radiator. Take off the hose that runs from the radiator to the thermostate, and the little hose that runs above the water pump right next to the exhaust. Remove the hose that goes into the water pump. Now, go under the car, you will see four huge bolts that hold up the four corners of the engine craddle/ K-member. They are about 6 inches long. Take the back ones out about half way and the front ones all the way. This will allow you to roll the engine forward so you and get to the lines. You should now be able to lower the jack and it should allow the engine to roll forward, use this to your advantage, rolling the engine forward will help you gain acess to the lines. SLOWLY lower the jack and watch to make sure no lines attached to the engine get streached (I had to disconnect the crusie control). After lowered so far you shoud be able to see the lines, they are right next to the steering knuckle. Remove them with line wrenches and replace the one that is bad. After they are replaced jack the engine back up in place and put the engine craddle bolts back in. You shoud not have to bleed the lines since the return line will force any air out. Just put everything back and fill your radiator and bleed the system, this is actually the hardest part. It took me about two hours to do this entire process. Good luck, If you have any questions enmail me at dew101970@yahoo.com. I will try to answer.

Installing power steering requires purchasing a new steering rack, pump, and lines. The system has to have a power steering capable rack installed, the reservoir and lines need to be placed comfortably in the engine bay. After installation the system will need to the bled.

Lift the hoods, find the lid to the power steering reservoir and remove the lid. Attached to the lid is the dipstick to the power steering fluid, read the level and decide if more needs to be added.

To add brake fluid to a 2006 Jetta, you will have to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. Fill to the appropriate level with DOT 3 brake fluid and screw the cap back on.

You can first open the hood. Then pour in the correct fluid until you reach the fill line and then put the lid back on.

I Had to do one the other day on a works van so will answer this while its fresh in my mind..it did take me about 2 and a half hours to remove it but it went back in fairly easy...

1. Raise the front of the vehicle on wheel ramps and then jack up further and remove the ramps use axle stands under the rear of the sub-frame mounts i did this to allow plenty of room to move around underneath

2.Remove both front wheels

3. Remove tie rod ball joints from the hubs with a ball joint splitter of your choice , undo pinch bolts on the other end of the tie rods and remove them completely from the rack ends..

4. Remove the pinch bolt on the input shaft, it's a self locking bolt so only needs a 13mm ratchet spanner on the nut to remove it..

5. Remove the bottom torque link between the subframe and the engine/driveshaft bracket..this allows the engine to swing out of the way

6. remove the power steering fluid pipes and drain into a suitable container..(good time to get a coffee while this is draining)

7. Remove the 4 bolts holding the rack to the subframe and it should now come free, move the rack to the passenger side and forward, it should drop down, you may now have to move the engine forward for it to allow the rack to drop down past the shaft and it should come free with a little swearing and gnashing of teeth...

And as most manuals say 'Fitting is the reverse of removal'

I just had this aggravating repair myself. To start off, I'm going to say I'm a female with little knowledge of cars. What I did was removed the wiper motor and it gave free access to the steering rack. It was relatively easy, just a bit time consuming. I was quoted $170 for this repair plus tax. The hose is 36.99 at autozone. Do it yourself and save some serious cash!

Previous answer:

I just actually did this myself today. The easiest and most likely only way to change it is to, remove the brake proportion valve assembly from the brake booster. then with some patience remove the hose from the rack and pinion with a 18mm wrench. the removal from the reservoir is fairly easy, just use a 3/4" wrench on the hose half and a 5/8" on the solid metal line half. !

-Billy

any engine that is not mounted in such a manner that the engine itself, or at least the propulsion unit of the engine, that it can be turned to either side, and in a vessel that does not employ a wheel to turn the rudder.

SMall outboard engines are the most common form of engine that is steered with a tiller. The tiller is an extension of the engine itself that allows the engine to be turned on its mount.

Many small to medium sized sailboats have a tiller mounted directly to the rudder. These boats have many different types of engines, including outboard motors.

The pulley is a press fit. If it no longer fits tight you need to replace it with a new one. This procedure requires special tools to remove and install the pulley to the pump. Some auto parts stores will rent the tools you need to do the job if you buy the parts from them.

I have a 1993 Nissan Altima, in which I had to loosen the Alternater Adjustment screws to get the old belt off. After replacing the belt, simply retighten the bolts until the belt is snug. Hope this helps.

first thing is you need to pull off the belts, and yes all of then because the stering belt in behind the others. then there is two bolts holding the pump so remove them and then just remove the high and low pressure lines and your done.

I meant, how do you get the rubber line changed that goes up behind the back o the engine and around to the pump. There is a rubber line that joins the p/s rack which I srewed off behind the engine. How do I get the lower part of the rack so I ca have this rubber section replaces?

Remove the lines first then the mounting bolts.

this job usually costs about $500 - $600 at a shop, access the pump through the left front wheel well and remove the plastic covers shielding the engine from the wheel.

You'll need to remove the serpentine belt tensioner and and belt, after that its just removing the part itself.

Hey Mart==Generally just one valve ticking wouldn't cause a power loss. It deoends on what kind of car and engine you have. It could be an injector ticking which would cause a dead miss. GoodluckJoe

First you must remove the upper portin of the fan shroud. Remove the belt, take a pully puller and pull the pully off the pump while it is still in place.undo the lines out of the steering sector(remember the high pressure line goes back in the hole closest to the engine block) Remove the three bolts behind the pulley, then remove the two nuts on the bracket behind the pump one is under the manifold and the other is on the bottom of the block. THen take the pump out remove lines and hardware and place on the new pump. WHen installing the new pump, put the pump back in place and the press the pully back on after you have put all the bolts back in the pump.

Its at the back and below the engine.. to fill it pull the dipstick marked POWER STEERING which is at the back of the engine to the left of the airfilter box.. and add fluid to the level marks on the dipstick