Survival Tips

mushrooms and grass

Get treated at the hospital as soon as possible.

Try to save energy and buy frozen pizzas from superstore. Only $4 while pizzahut for the same size but with more toppings is like $17.

Simply put, they kept stores available to the pioneers, who relied upon those supplies for their very lives. Bartering and the issuance of terms of credit were sometimes creatively applied by the pioneer storekeepers.

I suggest watching some of those wilderness survival shows to get some ideas!

neither i bring a helicoptor!

Our job is to create a campfire when everything in the environment appears to be wet. Notice that the operative word is "APPEARS". Even after a rainstorm there is tinder and firewood that is dry. Knowing where to look and what to look for are the keys to success. Let's start with tinder. Look around your site for fir trees. The smaller lower branches that have died as a result of being denied sunlight by the larger upper branches are the first choice. The same branches that shielded these dead branches from sunlight have probably shielded them from the rain. These smaller branches are usually dry and will break off in your fingers. Collect a good amount of these. Take a little extra time to fray and shred these with your knife or fingers. Also look for dry grass under these trees. Look for birch trees as the bark is impregnated with oil and will not absorb moisture. Bird nests and wasp nests (unoccupied of course) are also good sources of tinder. The wasp nests look like brown golf balls and the unoccupied ones are usually found on the ground. The bird nests are a little trickier and you will have to look for them. Also you can use a piece of cloth from a shirt or other article of clothing if necessary. Do not overlook the contents of your wallet. All those useless business cards burn very nicely. The next step is kindling. Look for trees known as "Dead Falls". These are trees that have fallen and are now in various stages of decay. Locate one that has been down for a while. Strip off the outer bark and cut chunks out of the rotting trunk. This will burn fast, so gather as much as you can. The larger branches can also be stripped of bark and the wood below used. Do not forget to look under and around these "Dead Falls" for wood that has been protected from the moisture. Another tip to be mindful of when foraging for dry wood is: look for pine trees. Many of these trees will have a sticky sap running down the bark. Collect this sap or pitch. It acts as an accelerant for your fire. Before you start a fire make sure you have collected enough fuel to keep it burning for a length of time. Whatever you collect, protect it from getting wet with pieces of bark, stones, or a piece of plastic (if it is available). Firewood is the main staple of any fire. Here again, the Dead Falls" are your best bet. You can use logs up to 3 feet in diameter. Even if you cannot cut them into a usable length, just strip the bark off them and insert the end into the fire. As the log burns, just keep pushing it into the fire. Building the Fire - There are 2 ways to start a fire in a wet environment. The first is to create a bed for the kindling to rest on. This is a very simple operation. Choose 2 sticks about 1 foot long and about 1 inch in diameter. Lay them parallel to one another. Loosely stack kindling in 3 layers on top of these base sticks. Alternate the direction of these layers (i.e. the first layer at right angles to the base, the next layer parallel to the base and the third layer again at right angles). Next place your tinder material underneath this stack. There should be openings at either end of the base. This opening will also serve as a vent for the fire once it is started. The other method of building a fire is to place the tinder in the center and construct a Tee Pee around it with the kindling you have collected. Igniting the Fire - Here too, there are several methods of accomplishing this task. Hopefully you came into this experience prepared. If you brought a disposable lighter, waterproof matches, or have book matches that are not wet, simply light the tinder. Once the fire is burning add small pieces of wood a few at a time from your kindling stock. Be careful not to add too much as this might smother the fire. Gradually increase the size of the wood until the fire is burning. Only add the larger logs after the fire is firmly established.

To make sure that the batteries come into contact with the plate that holds the bulb.

It honestly depends on the type of flash light.

Depending on an array of factors it can be anywhere between 2-10 days. Things that will affect this are temperature, humidity, physical activity, and others.

A medical alert system basically calls an ambulance or paramedics if you have fallen and cannot get up. It is particularly useful for elderly people who live alone.

A medical alert system provides help at the push of a button. The way it works is:

1. User pushes a waterproof button.

2. Activates a 2-way voice console allowing the user to talk to a monitoring center.

3. Monitoring center assesses the situation and contacts EMS and/or friends, family and neighbors to help the user.

You can details of medical alert systems work and features, benefits and more on the reviewsbee.com/blog

When the stones collide, they generate friction which in turn generates heat. The greater the friction, the more heat that is generated.

Well most people say rock + rock = fire. Well it does not equal fire it equals very frustrated human with two rocks. What you would want if you have modern fire making technology (matches and lighter) is wood and dry leaves. If you don't have matches or a lighter buy you have a pocketknife is wood, dry leaves, a stick and a plank. What you do is cut an indent into the plank then you sharpen the stick and be very careful then rub the pointed end next to your nose for body oil. Then you put the stick in the notch and put dry leaves within a reachable distance. Then you spin the stick in one direction as fast as possible until you see smoke. Once you see smoke put the ash in the notch on the dry leaves then blow on the ash gently till a fire comes. Then you put wood on the fire but keep the blank and stick because you may need it again.

Answer

The best thing to have to start a fire is a Swiss army firesteel. It is relatively easy to use to create large sparks. It works better than a magnesium bar. It doesn't involve the strenuous work involved in fire by friction methods. They are relatively cheap, and a genuine Swiss army firesteel is good for up to twelve thousand sparks of 3000 degrees. If you are into camping invest in a firesteel and attach to a long landyard to wear around your neck. Before you use a firesteel you need to scrape the protective coating off of it. You can use your striker to scrape it off.

Before you use the firesteel you need to gather bundles of tinder, kindling, and progressively bigger fuel wood. Certain tree barks make good tinder when it is crushed up. So do dead grass, cotton balls mixed with candle wax or petroleum jelly, paper, dead leaves, etc. Build your fire in a tepee fashion, at the bottom the tinder, surrounded by a tepee of kindling, surrounded by a tepee of bigger fuel wood. The tepees should have openenings in both the kindling and the bigger fuel wood

Use the firesteel to send sparks into the tinder, which is laid in the tepee openings. Build your fire in a depression or build a wall of rocks around it. This is to keep it out of too much wind.

If you are in a wet environment, pick broken branches buried on the ground under leaves up and whittle into them to see if they have dry wood deeper down. Break dead branches from the bottom of dead trees that have toppled over onto other trees to lean there.

A Swiss army knife is a handy pocket knife for doing fine work while camping or hiking. However, it's too small for chopping firewood. This is where a larger blade knife is needed. A survival knife with a blade length of about 5 to about 7 inches is generally sufficient for chopping and splitting (known as batoning) wood into smaller pieces to be used as firewood. Choose a blade length large enough for this important survival task but not too large to maintain good blade control.

A survival knife needs to be as indestructible as possible, able to take a razor edge, hold that edge, and be easy to sharpen as needed. A knife blade made of a tried and true carbon steel like 1095 meets this performance criteria. There is no need to get caught up in the newest high tech steel for wilderness survival tasks. Stainless steel blades are harder to sharpen and don't hold an edge for as long as carbon steel blades, but do have their place in frequent fresh and salt water environments for boaters, fishermen, and Navy Seals for example.

A useful survival knife needs to be big enough for big jobs like splitting wood, and used as a weapon if need be but not so big that it is cumbersome while doing finer tasks like food preparation, or shaving wood into small pieces to help build a campfire. Other uses for a survival knife can include hacking through ice that a shovel won't cut through, batoning wood for a campfire, cutting rope, making tent stakes, cutting the top off of food cans, hunting, and making traps. The list of survival needs is almost endless.

For wilderness survival tasks, avoid double edged blades and tanto style blades because these are designed more for thrusting as opposed to cutting, chopping and splitting wood. They are not as functional because they tend to have weak tips that can be broken off while doing survival tasks. Remember reliability is everything in a survival knife. A double edged blade also doesn't have a thick spine, so it would be impossible to baton wood with it. A survival knife with a drop point blade is the best all-around blade design for wilderness survival since it is less prone to bending and breaking during most survival tasks.

Large Rambo style knives may look cool and menacing, but are generally too large, heavy and therefore cumbersome for most survival tasks.

Because a survival knife needs to be as strong as possible, a fixed blade knife is preferred over a folding blade knife. Also, the blade length needs to extend from the tip to the end or slightly beyond the end of the knife handle. This one-piece design, called a "full-tang" knife design, is stronger than a two piece design where the blade is attached to the handle using screws, rivets and other attachment techniques.

There is a debate whether or not the blade edge should include serrations. Although this is an option in many survival knives made today, I feel a plain straight edge blade is more reliable since it's is easier to sharpen, does not require special tools to sharpen, and can do the tasks of a serrated edge knife. Simplicity and strength generally contribute to greater reliability for many survival knife tasks.

The spine of the blade runs opposite to the cutting edge of the blade and should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick so that it has enough strength for batoning (hitting it with a piece of wood) to split firewood. The spine of the blade should be flat so that it does not chew up the baton (the wood you are using to hit the spine.

Their are many variations of survival knife handles. The knife handle should be solid and should feel comfortable in your hand, provide good blade control, and be durable enough to survive the many tasks required of the survival knife. Hollow handled knives tend to break easily, making them unreliable for wilderness survival tasks. Survival knife handle materials include hard rubber, plastics like glass-reinforced nylon and Kraton(R), wood, and other materials.

When you obtain your survival knife, be careful with it and use it often. This will help you gain confidence using it and will help you find more handy uses for it. Keep it clean. Form the habit of cleaning it before putting it in its sheath. To help prevent blade rust, lubricate it with WD40 or your favorite petroleum based oil. This will help you maintain it for a lifetime.

Actually, what you are probably referring to is the first aid advice for helping a person who has fainted by raising THEIR feet higher than THEIR head to allow more blood to get to their brain.

Yes. She was my great grandmother and she died in 1967. I am not sure why you are mentioning Palatka. I dont think she was ever there. Her dad founded the island of Hypoluxo. Google Hannibal Dillingham Pierce

The flashlight has let us see when blackouts, let us see during storms. In other words, it's our light guiding us places when your lights aren't working.. if lights aren't working, you can always pick up a flashlight and BOOM, instant light again.. :)

For each person in the lifeboat: food - 0,5kg and water - 3kg.

You could. They taste kind of bitter though. It's the petals that are edible, and they go better with something else rather than alone.

Goof off works wonderfully. (Do you mean "Goop Be Gone"? -- I have that.)

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You can detect the smell of gas (through a distinctive scent that is added to it) in time to turn off the stove's gas jets and/or escape the house before the gas kills you.

You will need extra boots and food. It also is good to have some spare wagon parts.

I have found that practically no plant is goat proof. But, periwinkle, which happens to be deer resistant, is MOSTLY goat resistant, although they do like to eat the flowers. One thing to do is finding something tall enough, so above 5 feet, depending on the goat. But you have to make sure the goat doesn't lie to eat the bark. It completely ruins the tree. An oak tree I have is like half way eaten through the 5" trunk. Anyways, another option is getting a vine, but there's still the problem with the bark, then you can put it on a levitated surface (porches, etc), and let it grow from there. Well, there's either that... or just building a fence.