Toyota Avalon

If you know where the transmission dipstick is located you use a funnel and pour the transmission fluid into the place where the dipstick came from.

r134

under automotiveforums.com there is a image for the ignition coils and it shows a good drawing of exactly where its located.

ii have found the fuses for my toyota estima in strange places but have found other toyotas to have them in the same; try underneath the glove box right against the left hand side or underneath the steering column right against the right hand side (depending on right or left hand drive) covered by a black blanking cover with the fuses details on. they can be difficult to get to as some wiring could be in front of it. NOT WHAT YOU WOULD EXPECT

DRIVERS SIDE UNDER THE DASH ABOVE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE PEDAL. Black cover with fuse locations labeled on the outside.

There are 4 Generations of Avalons and close to ten types of stereos. More information is needed to provide an answer.

It depends on what components need to be repaired or replaced. Most car dealers, brake specialists and repair shops will be happy to give you a free estimate.

Fortunately, aftermarket or remanufactured brake parts for many vintage Mercedes cars are surprisingly reasonable in price -- you can buy a set of 1983 brake pads for less than $10, for example. If you want original Mercedes parts, expect to pay a lot more.

Toyota makes Toyota cars. Toyota also makes Scion and Lexus

Open the trunk. This will reveal two 10mm bolt heads on each side next to the light lenses. Remove the pertinent bolts. The entire assembly may now be detached from the body. There are two prongs on the outside edge of the assembly that pop out and into body mounts. Unscrew the bulb assembly desired and replace the bulb. Remount the assembly, insert the bolts and tighten. Done deal.

To change the highmount, open the trunk. Under the area of the highmount brake light there should be a couple clips that hold it in place, push them and the module should release from the rear deck. This bulb should twist out.

Crank Shaft.

The 2006 Toyota Avalon's engine produces 248 ft-lbs. @ 4700 rpm.

tires need to be balanced or you have a bent rim or a broken belt in your tire

Remove hose from bottom of radiator and let it drain into a container.

I locked my keys in my trunk and called a wrecker who had a slim Jim. The problem is that the car is designed to "relock" almost immediately after the slim Jim opened the lock. If you are using the slim Jim at the driver's side, someone on the passenger side has to be quick to open the handle before the lock relocks. It took us many tries before we got it. My problem was that I thought I could use the button in the glove box to open the trunk. But good old Toyota made it so that is disabled if you get into the car by some other manner other than the key or remote. I ended up having to go to a local dealer and getting them to cut me new key.

The oil control valves (OCV) are located between the cylinders on the drivers side. Bank 1 OCV is below the throttle body. Bank 2 is above the starter.

dextron 3 auto trans fluid is the best i have seen same fluid with dye added

A/F sensor are located in each exhaust manifold, O2 sensor After catalytic converter on exhaust pipe

I've seen 24 and 22 inch rims done before, but require modifications to the car, 17s and 18s are common play to replace the stock 15 inch.

Its located on rear door. Look to the outside edge.its a black round plastic piece about the size of a quarter with a slit in it. Just turn it to lock and unlock.

its a belt. just had it done. may want to replace all the belts...

dying battery, loose connection More Likely: I had the same problem. Solved by replacing the contacts INSIDE the starter motor. You can buy the contacts online or from Toyota dealer. It can be a DIY if you are a little handy.

You need a really massive impact wrench--something that cranks off from 300 to 400 lb-ft of torque. A lot of people at Tegger's Honda FAQ swear by the DeWalt 1/2" drive electric, which puts out 350 lb-ft. Ridgid (sold at Home Depot) sells a 1/2" drive model that kicks off 400 lb-ft. Harbor Freight sells one that is 3/4" drive (they also sell 3/4"-1/2" adapters because 3/4" drive impact sockets are generally huge) and that develops 400 lb-ft torque. I work at Home Depot but I bought my wrench from Harbor Freight...the $80 I saved bought sockets, the adapter and beer.

Air wrenches? The ones that develop enough torque are really expensive and they don't really work any better.

An impact wrench this big will screw that bolt out so fast you won't need to lock the crankshaft.

there is a hole on the rear of the block on the drivers side located just behind the rear balance shaft so you can lock your engine #1 cylinder @ TDC with a 6mmX100mm bolt or screwdriver. there is a hole machined into the balance shaft that holds everything still so you can get done....I would also recommend the use of an impact....

I just change my timing belt and water pump. In order to do this, you must drop the engine and remove the crankshaft pulley.

I could not have done it correctly had I not purchased a Chilton's Repair Manual.

Also, you will probably have to purchase or make a special tool in order to get the nut loose, although you might be able to do it with an impact wrench.

Either way, Chilton's gives a very detail explanation of how to do everything without messing up your timing. It explains how to set TDC (top dead center) on the #1 cylinder.

Don't try using a breaker bar and hitting the starter. These Hondas turn the wrong way for that.

Honda makes a tool that has a hex head which fits in the crankshaft pulley, with a hole in the middle that you can fit the required 19" socket. I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F to get the special Honda tool which holds the crankshaft pulley and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. the handle of the pipewrench was under the coupling the pointing to the front of the car. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit snug enough to hold itself up. Initially, I found the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint but eventually it bottomed out and the torque started to apply to the bolt.

Next, I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar. Here, my friend led me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported these extensions with a jack stand. I attached my 18" breaker bar to the extensions and a 4 foot cheater pipe to the breaker bar. I put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. Once I got the right leverage, it was a piece of cake. Getting the right leverage took two days of talking to a whole bunch of people, trying many different setups, using heat, a sledge hammer and my friends impact. Ultimately, it all goes back to leverage.

YOU DONT HAVE TO DROP THE ENGINE FOR THAT!!! ITS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO GET IT OFF THOUGH. THERES A TOOL CALLED A PULLEY HOLDER THAT YOU CAN USE IF ALL ELSE FAILS.

The comment about the galvanized coupling needs an addendum: For some reason no one can understand, Honda used three different crank pulleys on Accords. Only one of them works with the galvanized coupling tool, but if you have one of those pulleys the aforementioned tool works very well.

The 2002 Toyota Avalon has a 4-speed automatic.

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. If you are unable to do this, take it to an independent repair shop and have them do it for you. We just called our mechanic yesterday about the same problem. He said that since he had just installed a new belt, the problem might be that we didn't screw the gas cap on tightly. After fixing the problem it could take 200 miles before the light goes off.