Toyota Echo

when it breaks

Machine stops listening and sends a loud BEEP. Machine starts listening again and picks up the echo. This is repeated many times as the fisher moves the boat across the sea. When the echo changes, that means the beep is bouncing off a shoal of fish. So that's the place to drop the nets in.

Most likely one of the speakers has a loose wire that is contacting some metal in the car, check each speaker and I'm sure you'll find the problem.

Yes, although a 205/50/15 will give you the same diameter as the OEM 175/65/14 and will not alter the speedo reading

Echos are caused by sound waves bouncing off walls or objects

Locate the serpentine belt (passenger side of the engine compartment), the pulley at the very top is for the alternator, and the water pump pulley is right below that. I wouldn't replace it unless you really need to (i.e. it is showing signs of leaking, which means you should see a bit of coolant on the pump and/or on the ground under the pump). Trying to replace the water pump yourself can be a VERY difficult job unless you know the tricks - but in a nutshell the key to getting the old one out and the new one in is to hoist the engine up a little bit (either with a proper overhead hoist, or with the help of a friend and a big pry bar). There is almost no clearance to get the pump in and out any other way. I learned this the hard way, the job took me 12 hours to complete and I almost gave up several times. Quite a few details can be found here: http://echodrivers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=12462&start=15&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=water+pump

I just reset a 04 Toyota RAV 4 with the same method as I saw used on a Honda.

1) Press and hold in the trip/odometer stick where the mileage is displayed (near speedometer).

2) Turn the key and wait for about 5 seconds... light goes out (as long as nothing else is wrong I assume)

3) Don't forget to change oil!!!

One of the nice features of the Echo is that it has a transmission fluid filter. This means you may never need to change the transmission fluid (it is not listed at all in the owner's manual scheduled maintenance). If you feel that it really does need it because you have not driven under normal conditions, you can find details on how to do it, here: http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian/atfchange.msnw

well the front suspension assembly does not consist of shocks but struts. and is a easy to moderate job. must lift vehicle off the ground and support on jack stands. NEVER USE A HYDRAULIC JACK TO SUPPORT VEHICLE WEIGHT. pop the hood and lift it. remove wheels. disconnect brake line from brace on strut. remove two bolts from the strut and spindle. wiggle strut from spindle (may need pry bar to assist). remove three nuts from strut tower inside the engine bay (on the last nut , support the strut with one hand and remove the nut with the other, you may need help the strut is a little heavy.

Now if you did not get what i call quick struts, which is the coil spring and strut together no need to remove coil spring. now if you did NOT get quick struts i recommend taking your struts to an auto service shop and have them put the coil springs on the new struts. you can do it yourself with coil spring compressors. but if not done correctly it can cause severe injury or death. coil springs have massive energy if they get released from the spring compressor. reverse steps for install. Enjoy

I would always replace the springs at the same time. The job is not too bad, first time it could take 2 hours on each side but really should not take more than one hour. You can borrow a spring compressor for free from most auto parts stores (Advanced, Autozone, etc). Yes they can be dangerous, but if you use the proper tools there is little chance of an out of control spring. You may want to also replace the linkages at the same time as well since they are cheap and they are in the same general area (this is one of the main things state inspections fail cars for in my area after break pads, tire tread, and window wipers).

Coolant drain plug ?

Oil Drain Plug ?

Atf Drain plug?

Gearbox Drain plug?

More Specific Pwease?

its probably the oil plug he is sourcing, remove the splash tray and the sump plug will be just above it, you can drop the oil without removing, its just a bit messy.

If the AC stopped blowing air on your 2003 Toyota Echo, the blower fuse could be to blame. If the fuse is fine, it might be the blower resistor that needs to be replaced.

You have to remove the ECU first. Unplug the 4 plugs, remove the 2 screws and then take the ECU out. The blower motor resistor is mounted on the underneath towards the back firewall. You can get to it once you remove the ECU.

Cheapest should be to teach wife how to drive the sticks ;)

There is a peg just behind the top of the seat, you pull the peg up and then the seat can be pulled down. There is also a latch behind that seat that you can access from inside the trunk to get the seat down if the first method doesn't work.

There are just two hose clamps, one the screws, and the other that is compression (spring) held. Unscrew the one to loosen, use pliers to squeeze the other, and slide it back, then you can slip the hoses off the pieces they are attached to.

If you have a dying catalytic converter or O2 sensor, some codes could be thrown such as 'P042' but then clear themselves after some time passes and the problem is no longer detected.

hi i have smal question,how to change thermostat in Toyota echo 2000 thanks

IS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON? IF SO, DOES IT HAVE CODE 0420? IF THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER IS BLOCKED, THE ENGINE WILL RUN FOR A FEW SECONDS AND STOP BECAUSE THE EXHAUST BUILDS UP TOO MUCH BACK PRESSURE.

If it is just the pads, it shouldn't cost over $100 at a shop. If you need new rotors it could go up around $75 per side for a shop to do it. This job is very easy to do. If you have a large c clamp, 14mm socket and the patience to learn, you can do it yourself.

You can jack from the sides, just behind the front tires (or in front of the rear tires) you will see two half circle notches in the metal frame, these are jack points, but if you have a suitable floor jack, its better to use the jack points on the bottom of the car (I've seen slight damage to the frame from jacking from the side, because the metal tabs can bend). The jack points on the bottom of the echo: FRONT - this one can be hard to find at first, look for the square slightly towards the drivers side about 3 feet back from the front of the car, there is nothing else under that that looks like a jack point, so you should be able to spot it. REAR - this one is easy to find, its a square right in the middle, all the way towards the back. Unfortunately many normal sized, inexpensive floor jacks will have a hard time reaching the front jack point while still giving you enough clearance to jack the car up.

Block the frontwheels front and rear of tire. Untension the parking break. Jack the car up from 1 side until the tire you want to service is off the ground and place a jack stand under the hard point in the frame, you will see it, then continue to do the same on the other side. Remove the tires and place to the side, they do make good seats. If the hub does not 'slip off' u may have to loosen the tensioner in the lower middle on the inside of the backing plate. I believe the correct direction is up to loosen. after removing the hub u will see how it is 'sprung' together. You may need to purchase a Brake tool from your local Automotive store or if you are thrifty you can use common tools.I use a flat bladed screwdriver to release the spring pressure on the retainers and a pair of needlenose pliers to turn the hold-down nail, works well. You may need loosen the break adjuster quite a bit to make the hub go back on w/ the new shoes pending on how worn the old 1's are.REMEMBER!!! Do 1 side @ a time so you can make sure that the new shoes are properly installed!!! Failure to corectly install break shoes may result in bodily harm and possable death. good luck!

Follow the recommendation in your owner's manual. It will not be 3,000 miles which is a waste of oil and money. On most 2002 vehicles with modern lubricants and filters 5,000 miles is about right.

Check/replace air filter, clean the mass airflow sensor at the same time (its attached to the air filter box) with electronics cleaner spray, and then clean your throtle body (you don't have to remove it, just detach the hose and clean as you work the open/close valve by hand.

I have the same thing on 2000 echo, I was told to put a long screwdriver on the alternator then put my ear to the screwdriver to hear if the squeal is coming from the bearing after verifying the belt wasn't the problem.

lift up the car , standing underneath it it is the first barrel looking thing in the exhaust. You will notice an O2 sensor (with wires attached) immediately before AND after the cat.