Toyota RAV4

On the back side of the engine, crawl under the car with it and take a look!

passenger side /fron of oil pan.

The gas tank on the 2005 Toyota RAV4 holds 14.8 gal..

just give it a quick tug, it will come out

Before loosening all of the support bolts, loosen the drain/fill bolt that is more inward than the others. Make sure you have a drain-pan that can hold about 4 qts or more to reduce spillage. once you have drain pan in place, slightly break loose all of the bolts holding the rear diff cover in place. Now on the lower end of the cover remove up to three bolts completely to allow fluid to drain at a slow yet progressive rate. Once the fluids are almost all out go ahead and take out the remaining bolts. With a rubber ended hammer gently tap on the cover if it is not coming off easy. As a last resort use a flat screwdriver to wedge in between gently the cover and gasket, working yourself ( the screw driver all the way around the cover until the cover drops. Use automotive grade Degreaser and spray the inner parts/gears and cover alike. Take some shop rags (paper towels not recommended due to fibers left behind). Take a flat razor or paint scraper and scrape away all of the old gasket particles on the differential and the cover alike. now to have the ultimate clean surface use some rubbing alcohol and soak a cotton ball or a clean (non-oily) rag and wipe the mating surfaces of the cover and the rear diff. allow to air dry for about 5-10 minutes. While this is air drying it's best to RTV blue/500 degree form a gasket. Apply about 1/4" in dia. around the entire mating surface of the diff cover where the old gasket once was. It's critical to not apply right away. Let it get slightly tacky. allow about 10-15 min, if it's colder than 50 degrees F out, allow another ten minutes. Now apply the cover to he rear differential gently. By hand place the bolts through just enough to keep the bolt in without falling out. (It helps if you start at the top and do a star or x pattern. Now if you have a torque ratchet apply about 28 ft/lbs AFTER all are snugged in place. Use your sound judgment. If you don't have one That's okay, just get them all fairly tight as if you were doing spark plugs, etc.. Now hold off on adding the differential fluid just yet. Wait 10-15 minutes to allow the gasket to set. Add fluid to the point of the drain/fill hole. Tighten that up to about 18 ft/lbs. Drive around in the parking lot or neighborhood doing figure 8's. This assists in getting the fluid in the gears/ clutches. Mission complete.

The 2007 Toyota RAV4 has 16 valves.

The gross weight of the 2007 Toyota RAV4 is 4430 lbs..

air fuel sensors

I just changed the front running lights on my moms 2005 rav4. After opening up the front grill area etc, I found I was getting no where. So I removed the retaines and 2 screws that hold the inner fender well onto the fender and I had just enough room to get the job done. I did not remove the tires, I just turned them as needed to be out of the way. It was much easier.

Did you mean sidemarker lights? Check your owner's manual.

For more information on the correct bulbs, see sources and related links below.

remove the 2 side panels to access the mistery screws. there are 4 or 3 screws on each light. a pain in the bt

Buy a new one... You may not need it but they aren't expensive (I got 2 LOUD ones and it is much better than the sissy horns that are OEM). That's right there are 2 wired in series. The problem is most likely corrosion, so you'll want to purchase some wire (16ga black), some dielectric grease, and a few wire connectors (I'm not sure what they are called but they are the "female" match to the flat terminal type). You'll want to get some connectors which are coated in plastic that will offer some protection from the elements. The problem with the design is they are right in front mounted to the bumper and they are only covered by the plastic bumper cover. All the salt, water and junk gets all over the wires. So once you have the parts you'll need to remove the bumper housing off you'll be able to see the horns. There are 4 or 6 screws on the top to take the grill off and then some more under that to get the bumper cover. in adition to that there are screws and plastic clips in the wheel wells that connect to the bumper cover. Take your time and don't try to force the cover off, just look for a screw or clip you may have missed. Anyway once you get to the bumper and see the horns ar fairly self explanitory. If you bought new horns you'll need to do some custom mounting and may need a say or cutting wheel to remove the brackets welded to the bumper. Like I said, the OEM horns are probably fine... the wiring is coroded. So make sure you get to some clean wire (you may have to trim back a ways. Use the dielectric grease all over any connectors and wire splices... and electric tape over that. The big take home is protect the wires and connections from the elements the best you can.

At most Toyota dealerships, this will run about $300.00 parts and labor. Of course, this is dependent on several factors such as hourly labor rate, what the dealership's parts mark-up is and other factors. Other factors would be if you were electing to replace the water pump while they were doing the belt, which is a very good idea and replacing the ancilliary drive belts. I would recommend having the dealer do it as there is just too much for a amatuer mechanic to get into trouble withon this job. A 1999 Rav4 does not have a timing belt, it has a timing chain only, do not change this chain unless it start's to act up...I had a rav4 with 268,000 miles and never had a problem with the timing chain, dont worry about preventative maintenance on this one..

Remove the glove box door (six screws). Remove the metal spring clip that hold the two filters into the air duck directly behind the glove box. There are two filters, one above the other. Pull the lower filter out first by pulling it directly toward you. The top filter will slide downward to the bottom of the slot. Pull it out also. Replace with two new filters, but putting one into the slot and pushing it upward to the top of the slot. Then while holding the top filter in place, push the lower filter into position. The lower filter holds the top filter up in place. Replace the metal spring clip on the lower filter.

check oil level. go to engine shop.

I do not own a '96, but as on all small-block Chvy motors, I believe, it is located on the left rear side of the engine block. The filter is relativly short, and is between the engine block and the exhaust pipe coming off of the left side exhaust manifold.

This process invloves the removal of airbag and steering wheel...or installation or an aftermarket alarm and start botton for your cool rav...cheer mates....

Regardless of what type of vehicle you have, it is extremely difficult to replace a serpentine belt w/o a serpentine un-tension-er tool. This is a thin, long handle with a socket on the end that sticks out at 90 degrees of the handle. The socket slips onto the bolt-head of the tension-er pulley. Once the serpentine belt is threaded around all the other pulleys you put the un-tension-er tool on the tension-er pulley bolt and pull (or push) to achieve slack in the serpentine belt and slip it on the tension-er pulley.

The gross weight of the 2003 Toyota RAV4 is 3946 lbs..

The 2013 Toyota RAV4 has an inline 4 engine.

This answer will vary based off of the MODEL of the 2007 Toyota. See sources & related links below. Punch in the exact make, model and year. Note the model number of the rear wiper. Then click on the installation link and watch video for the model of rear wiper. In most cases its super easy. If a rear wiper doesn't display, then you'll have to talk to your dealer since its a special Toyota wiper. That said, most Toyotas use the universal wipers listed for most vehicles on this site.

i want to replace the timing belt of my rav4, so some one told that we have to replace the water pump also, is it necessary can any one answer for this

From the rear it could be the differential, however those front differentials are notorious for making noise. That whining noise derives from the viscous coupler, and is normal. Bring it to a dealer, not some crappy backyard mechanic. And have a certified Toyota TECHNICIAN inspect the front an rear differential, transmission, and wheel bearings (but those typically hum when bad), I almost gurantee you just hear the viscous coupler noise.

Yes, but how much you can safely tow depends on the year your Rav4 was made, the engine and whether or not it has the tow prep package. According to the Toyota.com web site http://www.toyota.com/rav4/specs.html, a 2008 Rav4 without the tow prep package can tow up to 2000 lbs. One equipped with the tow prep package can tow up to 3500 lbs. A second consideration is tongue weight, which is about 10% of the gross towing weight. For the 2008 Rav4, this would be 200 and 350 lbs, respectively. We have a 2007 Rav4 with the tow prep package, a Class II hitch and electric brakes. We use it to tow our pop-up camper that has an empty weight of 1200 lbs and a total gross weight of about 2000 lbs. The Rav4 pulls this rig without any difficulty, even in the Colorado mountains.

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that is the oxygen sensor on the exhause manifold.