0
Turbo and Superchargers
Turbo and superchargers are engine components that pump pressurized air into the engine via a compressor. Their function is to increase the power generated by the engine by providing it with increased air pressure inside the cylinders.
1,086 Questions
The turbos can be removed and replaced with an upgrade. So surely you can remove them out and run the car w/o. The question is, why would you want to?
No boost pressure on TURBOCHARGER?
boost pressure, as you call it, will not show on gauge,if you have one, while engine is at idle the turbo pressure does not boost but runs all the time according to the revs of engine
What do you put in your Dodge Stratus RT V6 supercharger or turbos?
Last I knew this company: http://www.forwardmotioninc.com/ was developing a turbo for the Dodge Stratus R/T coupe. I just took a peek at their website and didnt see it. Give them a call and ask about it. I would think a turbocharger would make more sense ont he R/T coupe, it doesnt seem like there would be much space for a supercharger without extensive modification.
What is the best engine suitable for a 1992 Toyota supra twin turbo?
You are only slightly right, in the states there was the 7MGTE (single turbo) from 86.5-92..... then the 2jz came about in the mk4 which had the TT option later on. but to answer the ? about the twin turbo supra in 1992 they made a TT model in japan the engine code is 1JZGTE it is a 2.5ltre twin turbo 87-92 which in my opinion is and awesome motor , they also had the 7mgte in earlier models of the mk3 the 1992 supra came with a single turbo and not a twin turbo. the twin turbo came to-be a year later in the 1993 MKIV generation supra.
Where is the number 1 cylinder on a 93 eagle talon non turbo?
When your looking at the motor it will be the first one next to the pulleys.
Is a 1996 peugeot 306 xld a turbo?
No only if its got a 't' in it. It will be 70 BHP diesel, same as 1.6 petrol (But all Diesel engines are a "turbo" - it's how the diesel engine works." All diesel engines are not turbo charged !!!
The easiest way to identify if the engine is turbo charged is to look at the exhaust manifold and see if you can see a turbo, a normally aspirated engine will have the exhaust pipe straight on to the manifold a turbo charged engine will have what look like bulges in the manifold area with a small rod and vacuum pipe (this controls the waste gate).
On the 306 the easiest way to identify either way is to open the bonnet and look at the engine, if there is a unit on top of the engine that looks like the radiator this is the 'intercooler' and the engine is turbo charged if this is not present and there is a black air box then this is normally aspirated and does not have a turbo !!
I had the exact same problem with my 91 stealth R/T non turbo. it turned out that the alternator was shot. it only costlike 100 to fix and now it runs like new.
What type of tranny is in a 1993 Chevy silverado dually pick-up 2wd with a 6.5 turbo diesel?
Call your local GM dealer and ask the parts department personel the question. You may have to refer to the "service parts identification" sticker located in your glove box. This sticker will have a list of 3 letter/number combination codes on it. At least 2 of these codes that start with the letter "M". M codes describe your transmission. Most parts people can use their computer well enough to look up that info for you very quickly.
How much does a custom turbocharger cost on a V 10?
Hennessey Performance has twin turbo packages available for the Dodge Viper, although the Ram only has minor bolt ons.
A test mule was used by the company to showcase a variant of the 800hp version of the Viper's kit inside the Ram, and the price tag was approximately $39,500. Transmission upgrades to handle the power came to $48,150. A few other additions to the truck brought the total modifications to $106,855 (in addition to the $50k price of the truck).
These are prices as of 2005 (Hennessey does not list prices on their site), so expect some adjustment for inflation. Additionally, HP claims to have upgrade packages to support 2000hp, however only 1000hp examples are seen on the site. The price does come with a limited warranty, and while not a true one-off custom, the Hennessey brand does more than enough R&D to guarantee reliability, whereas a smaller shop may not be able to put forth the research funds.
You have to pay to play, and it doesn't get much more expensive than a V10 - unless you start talking Novitec's V12 packages for Ferrari.
Turbo charger or supercharger for an '85 Z28 Iroc-Z Camaro?
Supercharger. Instant throttle response, less heat under hood, probably better reliability. Be sure to buy one with an intercooler, since pressurizing the air heats it up, and you want the coldest air possible into the intake. And remember--there ain't no such thing as a free lunch. A super charger is simpler to install than a turbo, but it will decrease fuel economy about 3 to 4 percent. A super charger will have fast throttle response A turbo will not effect fuel economy while at Cruise speeds, but turbos has a thing called turbine lag which is the time between when you step on the throttle and the time the turbo starts to make boost, about 1 to 3 seconds depending on the size of the turbo. You can get more power out of a turbo depending on the one you get. The problem with a turbo is it will hurt your gas mileage plus you will have a problem with detonation. If you were to bolt on a turbo every time you go to turn off the car you would have to sit and let the car idle for about a minute. To bolt on a turbo correctly you would need a front mounted inner cooler and an after market turbo timer; then you would not have to worry about detonation or having to sit and wait for turbo to cool off before you turn it off. To set up a supercharger right it would cost between $3500 and $4000. To set a turbo right with a turbo timer and inner cooler would cost about $2500. To do both isn't a bad idea either As old as your motor and drive line in the car probably are, you'd be better off looking to swap in a GEN III small block, an LS1. For the money you will spend on tuning the car you could find a used LS motor from a wrecked Camaro or Trans-Am in a wrecking yard for -/+ 1,500 $. Unless your going for a really mild forced induction set up, your old transmission, rear differential, brakes as well as other things will need to be either replaced or rebuilt to handle the higher power levels. Now if you were to buy a running LS1 with the transmission and wiring harness, you would be ahead of the game already. Almost a 100 horse power bump depending on the stock motor you already had. A quick search on Google, I've found a built LS1 with the trans and harness for 7,500$, that motor makes 510 HP as per the ad's claim, which is more than you would see on the upper end of a turbo or supercharging setup. I'm not saying buy someones built motor, buy a stock LS1, buy new better flowing cylinder heads, high lift cam, and larger intake manifold, with supporting mod's. You will net the same or more horse power as you would adding a forced induction setup to your TPI 350 or TBI 305. The car will be much more drivable, ultimately more reliable as well. I'm not saying you should not go for a FI setup if that's what you really want to do, I'm just saying, you'd spend in the same ball park money wise, with more reliable, and likely, more power from building an LS1. Just something to look into. If you do decide to go FI with your car, look into a Procharger or the like, I have not researched it, I'm sure they have some sort of preassigned package. It should be easiest to install, and should come with some sort of programmer. Make sure and get a Dyno-tune done on the car, just because they do provide some software, does not mean it will work 100% with your car, you want to make sure everything air/ fuel / ingnition wise is in line, if it'd not THAT will lead to detonation. Don't forget, DON'T neglect the supporting mod's like your brakes, tires, rear differential, transmission, as well as fuel, and ignition. Not necessarily in that order, the last two being important to it running correctly, but all should be addressed the more power you want to make will show the weaknesses in the car. Like I said, a used GEN III LS1 with transmission and harness would be the cheaper way to go, leaving allot of the upgrades already taken care of, aside from feeding the new motor more fuel, as well as getting the power to the ground through a new rear differential. You could just salvage the fuel pump and rear assembly from the donor car as well. You will need other parts, a K-member to match the car the motor and trans came out of, and other miscellaneous things, there are plenty of article on what you need, do a little bit of searching on google. Look in to it, you may get a better result for less.
== ==
It depends on the application, but with the improvement of turbo designs/technology/efficiency and from a fuel economy stand point I would choose a turbocharger.
