Volvo 240

Need to replace the OD relay which is behind the glove box. Remove glove box and look to left. White relay. Found on eBay for 12 bucks. Hope that is the problem.

check airflow meter

The retaining clips are inside the trunk. You can reach them through the hole behind the rear arm rest. Otherwise you need someone inside the car pulling the headrests out while a second person releases the clips while leaning into the trunk.

what years is it? My 83 244gl automatic switch went bad on the shifter and was stuck with overdrive off. I pulled the switch out and unplugged it. Then I connected tapped the wires together with screwdrivers and turned the overdrive on that way. Now i just drive with it on.

under the carpet panel on the passenger side, right in front of the door.

That's correct it's electronic.

Try FCP Groton. Search for it on Google or Yahoo.

Having this same problem (same car, same year), and I've seen other forums asking the same question but without a final answer or solution. No doubt it is a common problem.

To troubleshoot I:

* replaced my bulbs with new and correct bulbs

* checked as much wiring as I could see * removed my dash light dimmer (rheostat) from the system

* removed the headlight switch from the system

* removed the main light relay from the system * removed the blown bulb relay from the system * removed the dash lights from the system * checked the bulbs in the dash

and it still blew the fuse.

I also went to the fuse box and found three wires going into that fuse. There is a

* wire for the front right running light * wire for the rear right running lights * wire for the dash lights When I remove the dash light wire, the fuse doesn't blow. This could be because

# The dash light wires between the fuse box and the disconnected dash lights are shorting out # One of the other two wires leads to a small short that in combination with the draw from the dash lights blows the fuse The next step would be to disconnect the other wires and reconnect the dash lights to see if they alone blow the fuse. If they do, then the problem is between the fusebox and the dash lights.

Very frustrating. Any help for those of us struggling with this would be very helpful. Is this a common problem? Is there a way to isolate this further? Is there anything in the dash light system that could do this beyond a rubbing wire? Have I effectively narrowed it down to that as a problem?

Help!!! Thanks.

I'm not a mechanic / technician but I assume it would be the same as my

1982 Volvo 244GL . There are ( 2 ) small bolts/screws that hold it on the

back of the alternator . I changed mine twice in the 12 years I had the car .

Take the two screws out , tip the voltage regulator up as you remove it ,

installation is the reverse

I haven't been able to. I disconnected my air cond. so it wouldn't blow hot air.

First remove your door panel and interior lock module modular with T30 screwdriver. Then proceed to remove the window mechanism and your interior panel. A T20 screwdriver to remove the interior panel and lock module from the inside of door. Disconnect your control module and replace with a new.

Sometime in the 1980's Volvo dropped the old numbering sequence of 242, 244, 245 to delineate their 200 series cars and went to calling them all 240's. The DL and GL are trim and equipment levels with the DL being the lower or less expensive. The old numbers meant first, the series number. Second is the number of engine cylinders and the third was the number of doors the car had. A 245 is a 200series car, with a 4 cylinder engine and 5 doors is a station wagon.

under the radio and ashtray.when you take out the ashtray you will see a lil handle that says fuses lift up on that the fuses will be right there on the cover on back of panel when you pull it out it will have a label identifying what fuse goes to what function you need good luck

Sounds like you're not getting a spark... here goes: check your coil, plugs, distributer, starter, computer module, magnetic pick-up, alternator, or maybe even a timing belt.

More than likely there is a dead short with one of the wires going to the switch. All of the wires come through a flexible chase from the door post to the door and then run inside the door panel to the switches. I have seen where they rub and short out right after where they come into the door and rub against the metal of the inside of the door. You will have to remove the handle and the trim panel of the door in order to find this problem, if it is there, which is the most likely place.

You have to remove the instrument cluster and the trim beside the air outlet vent beside the cluster. There is a nut holding the threaded part of the switch collar around the shaft thru the dashboard panel. If you remove that nut, the switch can be pulled back and can be seen thru the hole made by removing the cluster.

very very rare, but there was an optional GT instrument cluster which only had a 5 digit odometer. The standard clusters always had 6.

If you will carefully press in on the backside of the material of the front seat back following a straight line downward from the headrest post you will come to a tab at the end of the post. Raise the headrest to the upmost position, press with your thumb on the material and against the tab while putting just a small amount of upward pressure on the headrest and the tab will release the post. You have to do this to both posts of the headrests to remove them from the front seats. I have an 89 240 and the headrests do come off, as do all 240 wagons.

They have a bad ground, if you notice all the other lights back there will be dim also. You need to track your ground wire or check your light bulb socket and make sure its getting a good CLEAN ground.,

on the 1988 Vovlo 240, the fuel filter is loca

No! The M47 is a 5 speed! The M46 a 4 speed with overdrive. It looks like

you might be able to do it but their parts are in no way interchangeable. The

M46 is a stronger transmission and generally outlast the rest of the car. The

m47 requires attention or you might have problems at say 200K.

Keep rolling!

My 86 will average 26 mpg combined city hwy driven normally. When I'm in the high mileage mode (coasting where possible, slow acceleration, low rpm) I can average 28 combined. On a 500 mile road trip (all highway) driving at the speed limit, and drafting big rigs when possible, I averaged 35 mpg.

Check if you have early type or later type head bolts. Early types have plain shanks, later types have a waist cut in them half way down. There are 10 bolts in both cases. Tighten early type bolts as follows: 1. Bolt 1 is the middle bolt on the carb side of the engine. Bolt 2 is the middle bolt across on the other side of the head. Bolt 3 is the one to the left of Bolt 1 and Bolt 4 is to the left of Bolt 2. Bolt 5 is to the right of Bolt 1 and Bolt 6 is to the right of Bolt 2. Bolt 7 is to the left of Bolt 3 at the back of the engine, with Bolt 8 to the left of Bolt 4 at the back of the engine. Bolt 9 is at the front of the engine to the right of Bolt 5 and bolt 10 is opposite that to the right of Bolt 6. Torque them all to 43 ft-lbs. 2. Go over all the bolts again in the same order as above and torque them up to 80 ft-lbs. 3. Warm the engine up fully and then let it cool down again completely. 4. Slacken off Bolt 1 by 30 degrees counterclockwise and then retighten to 80 ft-lbs. 5. Re-torque all remaining bolts to 80 ft-lbs. Later type bolts are easier, and done in the same order as the early ones. 1. Tighten initially to 15 ft-lbs. 2. Go over the bolts again in the same order and tighten to 45 ft-lbs 3. Go over the bolts a third time in the same order and tighten a further 1/4 turn (90 degrees). That's all.

Fuel pump fuse is on the main fuse panel behind the front rubbish tray (directly in front of the gear lever in European cars). If you look at the bottom of the flip out door with it closed, you will see a push up lever, push it up and pull towards you at the same time and it will pop out, behind it is the main fuse board and relay board. On the bin as it comes out, there will be a white number coded sticker with the numbers relating to the fuse positions, and it tells you what runs off which fuse.

Hope that helps.

Incidentally the main fuel pump relay is second back on the left hand side of the relay board - if you search fuel pump relay under google images you will pick up a couple of useful pointers. Good luck.