Acura CL

como des bloqueo stereo acura

Synonyms are words that have similar meanings. Some synonyms for the term 'road user' would be traveler, commuter, rider, and driver.

My Acura does that from time to time too...as does my neighbor's...and my co-worker's.

We all own Acura TLs. Mine is a 1996. I think it is a design flaw that occurs in Acuras.

I have spent a lot of money at the dealership, and they have told me that it is a problem with the door handle (which I fixed for a couple of hundred bucks), and they also told me that the problem didn't happen while the car was at the dealership.

I'm listening to my neighbor's car go off right now.

The only solution that I've come up with so far is disconnecting the battery, which means I have to re-connect and enter my radio code each time in order to use my car and radio.

I think it is something that Acura should recall and fix, but I'm not sure they are aware of the problem (or care about it).

You can also re-wire the system so that the wire that controls the alarm system is disconnected, but I don't know how to do that, so I can't advise you on it.

I hope that helps.

http://cl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471188

each one has its own unique code on a small card. check the glove box or owners manual for the little card.

Remove the ash tray, turn it over and your code is on the sticker.

Take off the fuse panel cover on the driver's side. Open the DS door and you'll see the panel cover. Remover that, and there is a bolt towards the bottom of the opening. Remove that and you can remove the rest of the panel from under the steering wheel. You can see the brake light switch without removing the panels, but I have not tried to replace it without taking them off, so you may or may not have to remove the panels to replace the switch. To locate, follow the brake pedal up, and part of the pedal is resting against a bolt with a white housing on top of it. That white part with the bolt attached is the brake light switch. You have to disconnect from the electrical to get it out, but it seems pretty simple. Hope this helps.

there are none

The Acura CL type S with a 3.2 liter engine takes 4.6 quarts of motor oil when changing the oil filter at the same time.

(Supplemental Restraint System) SRS light is on because there is a problem with the system. Fix the problem and the light will reset itself. As long as that light is on the SRS will not function if needed.

look on the door sill it will tell you

i really need to know my car is acting up and we can not find the diagnostic port for it. they told me under the ash tray, sterring wheel, and glove compartment

call the Acura Dealership with your VIN# and the name of owner it is registered with and they will give you the reset code

No, actually it's not that simple. You can try calling the selling dealer. They may have a copy of the radio code. Otherwise the audio unit serial number is required for radio code retrieval. If the radio says CODE, turn it off. Hold preset buttons 1 and 6. Continue to hold these buttons as the radio is turned on. The serial number will flash on the display. An Acura or Honda employee must enter the serial number the manufacturers website to retrieve the code. Not just anyone can use that website. It is highly secure to prevent thieves from retrieving radio codes, immobilizer codes, and key codes. Simple answer is to call the selling dealer. If they haven't retained a copy of the code, you may have to visit an Acura or Honda dealer. Hopefully they can assist you for no charge. The whole process takes only about five minutes. If the radio is "locked up", it may take a few minutes longer. The battery cables must be disconnected and held together for several seconds to discharge the capacitors and unlock a radio.

*Also, make sure to bring proof of ownership of the vehicle. It is process to check the ownership before releasing the radio code.

Most vehicles recommend changing the timing belt every 60,000 miles.

gotta take the bumper off

yes

The 1997 Acura CL OBD 2 port is located in the center console behind ashtray

sounds silly but had the same problem tow truck guy came out and laughed...said put transmission fluid in it we did and it ran fine...felt really silly about that one....

In the event you lose the radio code contact the dealership where you purchase the vehicle, have the VIN number it is on your car registration or on the dashboard in front of the drivers side. If you purchase the car from an individual you can call your local dealership or call corporate (Honda) toll-free number and have the VIN number available. By the way it is a 4 digit number that will activate your radio after the 4th digit is depressed on the radio. Good luck.

Using a gauge and the proper type Freon, connect to the low side ac port. With the engine running and ac on high, open the valve and let Freon flow until the gauge reads full.

If your referring to the little green/yellow flag on the instrument cluster. Directly below the flag, is a notch. Push a key or small screwdriver into it. Your good for another 3000 miles.

YES IT CAN ONCE THE ACCORD IS A 2.2 MODEL

Take off the tire (obvious), remove the two caliper bolts (12mm), and move the caliper off of the brake assembly: the brake line is short, so you have to have something to set the caliper on, or fashion a hook to hang it from if you don't want to disconnect the brake line. I used a metal hanger as a hook, and hung the caliper by the upper mounting hole suspended from the upper control arm. Next, you remove the two brake pad mount bolts (14mm) and remove the entire assembly with the brake pads on it. The rotor is now completely exposed and is ready for removal. There are two Phillips screws holding in onto the hub, and possibly a few years of road gunk too. My screws were rusted and stuck in place. I bought a tool at Sears that is a hammer-actuated hand impact wrench. It retails for $30. You put the screw adapter on and line it up with the screw, then start whacking it with a hammer. Each whack puts a ton of torque on the screw and will rotate it approximately 20 degrees. That did the trick with my stuck and partially stripped screws, but I'll bet a full out impact wrench with screw tip will work too. Once both screws are out, the rotor is technically unsecured, but again may be stuck from years of gunk as mine were. There are two other holes in the rotor hat for removal screws. By threading screws into those holes, you put pressure on the hub, and force the rotor off. I found that the screws are approximately 1/2 inch diameter. I had some old HW laying around, and found two conduit clamps for industrial wiring jobs that had mounting screws with square heads that fit perfectly. The square heads were slightly difficult to work with, but a 8mm or 9mm open-ended box wrench fit perfectly, and after about 3-4 turns apiece, the rotors popped right off. Install your new rotor, put the brake pad assembly back on and reinstall the caliper. One additional note: the screws through the rotors are unnecessary. The caliper holds it securely in place, and even if it didn't, the pressure of the wheel will hold it snug as well, so do yourself a favor, don't reinstall the two screws into your new rotors. I used mine to hold it in place while I reinstalled the calipers and pads, but then removed them and tossed them.

No

white sticker on the bottom of ashtray

Is there any gasoline in your tank. Put some in there!