Buick Skylark

Check with any place that sells tires. If it's a Gran Sport, they're 16", others are 15".

aluminum heads like 410...cast iron heads about 467

most gm vehicle have them next to the stearing facing front on the right side close to the cig lighter or radio in a spring bracket. remove the bottom or any metal bracket blocking it will be much easier.

Locate the horn behind the front bumper on the driver's side..

Unplug the electrical connector to the horn.

Remove the horn mounting bracket bolt.

Remove the horn.

That depends on the color of the smoke. If it's white smoke, then you probably have a problem with the manifold gasket. Blue means it' burning oil. The "clear fluid" is probably just condensation from the air conditioner or the tail pipe.

The spark plugs are located under the aluminum cover at the top of the enigine. There are two bolts (1/2") on the top and two bolts located lowed on the cover towards the back of the engine compartment (just follow the cover down, as it wraps around). The two lower bolts are also 1/2". There is a electrical plug located on the driver's side of the cover, which unplugs easily. Once the plug is disconnected, just pull the cover straight up and off. the plugs are located on the back side, mirrored with the injectors. Hope this information helps.

can i do this at home

Sorry, I do not have the definitive answer, but maybe my experience will be helpful. I was plagued with the same problem on the drivers side window, though more pronounced with going up. Waiting a few minutes or longer, it would go back up a few inches, then stop again. I repeated the process until window was finally up. I later discovered that if you "grasped" the window and assisted it, you would have much better success. As Murphy's Law would have it, failures occurred at an in-oppurtune time usually. So it was hard to test for 12 volts at the motor when it was failing. I came to the conclusion it had to be the motor, theorizing it was already weak or had a winding that was shorting and made it overheat, making it work at first, then fail. After trying to overhaul the motor, I eventually replaced it.

Hooray, it worked... for 3 or 4 months. Arrgh! It is exhibiting that exact same properties. I have read on another site about the possibility that the motor is fine, that real problem is in the lifting cables. They are somewhat like the hand brake cable of bicycle, where a flexible cable slides within a tubular shroud. If these cables are insufficiently lubricated, they may cause too much mechanical resistance for the motor to overcome. Also if the cable shroud is not firmly secured at either end, it may be absorbing the movement of cable as the motor winds the cables.

I find it hard to believe the motor itself has failed again, although anything is possible. The replacement motor I used was new from a auto parts store, not an actual OEM motor. Before I tear back into it, I'm thinking about contacting a Service Manager at a Chrysler dealership. Perhaps there is a service bulletin on this.

I had problem with motor not working on the up switch on drivers door. Replaced motor and cables. When you replace both be sure that you have window all the way down before you take off cables. If not you will have a major head ache trying to remove cables. It is very easy if you have window all the way down. Use your own judgment on how far you want it down to remove cables. Took me about 2 hours for everything. Be sure to tighten all things back up so window does not bind in rail.

well, with a tap and die. but that is not a good idea. your lug nuts have to be a certain strength, and tap and die-ing one an entire inch thinner would ruin it. just go buy them for like a dollar apiece at autozone. besides. it's probably not a 14" anyways, it's probably 14mm.

Straight-most use the same manifold fitting as the brake booster & not the carb.

Where is the transmission solenoid located on a 1995 buick skylark custom?

When you open the ashtray compartment, push down the top lid on the ashtray halfway and hold it with one hand and pull it straight up and out by that middle cigarette holder with your other hand.

There is a special tool for that. Try a GM dealer's service center. They should know which one it is.

it sounds like a steady bearing on the drive train or pssibly your tourque converter is going bad

.....still lookin'

You might need new tires. The tire(s) could be separating. Check and see if they are bulging at all.

I think your tires might be out of balance or you need a 4-wheel alignment. Your shocks might also be worn-out.

I know I already answered this question, but I will answer it again.. The chime that does the headlights also does it for the Key in the Ignition reminder. Sometimes these small switchs can go bad, and key cylinder lubrication can sometimes fix the problem, but more often than not, the key cyliner has to be replaced. The cheaper route is to just remove the chime box, by following the sound until you find it and unplugging it. However, this will also mean if you leave your headlights on, you wont know...

Somewhere on the exhaust system. LOOK

Gene Snitsky went from the WWE, to ECW to RAW to Total NonstopAction Wrestling to doing Walking Dead horror films.

A common problem on many General Motors cars is the Torque Converter Clutch fails to release and causes the car to stall when it comes to a stop or when started and put in gear. Most of the time it is a stuck Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid, but this is not the only cause of this problem. Generally, if you unplug the TCC solenoid at the transmission and the symptoms go away, you have found the problem. But sometimes this can be misleading because you don't know for sure if it's a bad solenoid, dirt in the valve body or a bad signal from the ECM. I would suspect you will find the solenoid is bad or has been unplugged.

Well... pull-out that rather long dipstick located in the back of the engine compartment, and add some transmission fluid. Make sure you check the fluid level with the engine at operating temperature, in park and on a level surface.

its under th passenger side dash behind the glove box

It's on the driver's side of the rear cylinder head.