Cadillac DeVille

where is the horns for 1978 cadillac

I once had a girlfriend who broke up with me unexpectedly and it really really hurt me and now about a year later we have really started talking to each other a lot and I'm getting a strong feeling she likes me again but I'm really scared and it makes me cry because I want her but I don't know if she will do it again and i just can't deal with that. Only you know why you broke up with him and it should be for a good reason because you broke his heart. Women seem to think they have the corner on broken hearts, yet men can have deep and hurt feelings too; they just don't express it in the same vocal manner as a woman. I have no idea why you broke up with him, but if you simply met someone else you cared more at the time then consider the fact you have learned a very costly lesson. If it was your boyfriend with the problem to cause you to break off then why go back! Marcy If you really want to win him back, wait a while. Make him feel like you broke up with him for a reason, because if you start talking to him right away, it will only confuse him. Create space between you two and when you think you've had enough time apart, call him up. He may not act like he wants to hear what you have to say, but he is curious. Since you broke up with him, you should be the one to call him. Now do that and you will have him back! To the first poster. She broke the trust you had in her and don't be afraid to let her know that. Make her earn your trust back while still being pleasant with her, but don't EVER let her think you are a sitting duck for her to do this again. You set the rules and you tell her that every so often you need head space and don't let her think she can snap her fingers at you and have everything her own way. Women or men don't really respect people they can manipulate. Remember, people are only human and they can make mistakes so take it slow and easy and don't rush into another relationship immediately. Date her, but keep her guessing and make her earn that trust from you! People will always make mistakes, but when they don't learn something from that mistake the first time around then I'd kick them to the curb.

You cannot, because of the screen blocking the fuel tank filler pipe, siphon the fuel via the filler pipe. However, there is no screen on the filler vent pipe. Remove the vent line hose at the tank, check the inside diameter of the vent pipe. Go to a building supply store buy four feet of so of clear plastic tubing, 3/8 inch outside diameter should do it, but check first. Insert plastic tube via the vent pipe into the tank and start the siphon. Worked very well for me and I removed nearly 17 gallons in less than 45 minutes.

ok any of the three can but heres a way to tell where to look first... wheel bearings, would cause a grinding sound and eventually cause the car to pull ,but so will tie rod ends... cv joints will normally pop when taking off if they are worn, and usually do it more when accelerating, or taking off, but they will do it when turning too, they usually seem to quit if running consistent speeds untill trying to accelerate again, them you will check by getting to a consistant speed, then bump the gas kinda hard like trying to speed up, and then let off it on and off and then wait a sec and do again if it pops when you bump the accelerator good and let off it while moving its a cv joint,if you step on the gas and it pops its a cv joint (cv joint it means center velocity) usually it going to be a cv joint if it is thought, you will hear it all the time, on four wheel drive vehicle though it will usually do it with the cv joints too but it usually start from just cornering too tight with the wheel out of alignment. thats the problem with a popping sound, you know but is always smart to check the others too....heres how to check them.... normally tie rod ends only make popping sounds when turning, to check tie rod ends jack one front tire off of the groung and on that same side with steering wheel locked and car in park try to rotate wheel from left to right the way a tire would move if you turned the steering wheel (this does not mean spin the tire) if it moves or seems excessive with steering wheel locked and not moving, its a tie rod end. wheel bearings usuall will make the tires and lug nuts extremely hot when driven for a short distance if too tight.....but may cause a popping sound too if its loose or worn......if its the wheel bearing it will be the harder to be checked. if you check the others and its not them its more than likely going to be the wheel bearing....

According to fueleconomy.gov http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/4632.shtml

Fuel Type = Regular

MPG (city) = 15

MPG (highway) = 22

MPG (combined) = 18

Fuel to Drive 25 Miles = 1.39 gal

Based on 15000 annual miles and a fuel price of 3.01 per gallon:

Cost to Drive 25 Miles = $4.18

Annual Fuel Cost = $2510

Annual Greenhouse Gas Emissions = 10.20 tons

Best of all vehicles = 3.5 tons

Worst of all vehicles = 16.2 tons

I own (and drive) an '88 SDV. My mileage is 10-20% higher. I attribute this to very careful driving.

Moby (my Great White Caddy) has an on-board computer that lets me monitor fuel consumption: instantaneous mpg, average mpg, and projected driving range based on available fuel and average mpg.

It's amazing how conscious of driving one can be when given good information.

If you know the value of the resistor you can cut the wires going to the lock cylinder and solder in a resistor of the correct value.

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...or you can go further ahead and completely eliminate the entire security system (that seems to get broken piece by piece) with just a little bit more effort.

The PCM (car's computer) is expecting a signal coming from the security system and this signal is generated by the security core (TDM) when it sees the right resistance value in the key.

Knowing that the TDM dies with the age of the car, when it happens the resistor trick won't work anymore. Now, instead of working on the key to bypass vats, it's enough to generate that same signal and send it to the PCM bypassing the whole thing, including the TDM.

So how do you generate that signal? With a little bunch of electronics components and 4-5 hours of work. The circuit to be done is an oscillator based on the NE555 component and is not as difficult as it seems and is the only way to forget about that infamous vats thing. I found all the DIY instructions on vatspasskey.com, I did this for my 94 Park Avenue and it was the only thing that saved it.

Hit the information button until it says the percentage of oil left. Then hold the reset button. 3 X's will show up, just keep holding until it says 100%.

it is located in the gas tank

no, the cars computers are different and wouldn't be compatible with the different transmission type. it could possibly run but not well. i mean horribly. also, look if the 84 is electronically controlled. the 92 definitely is.

it depends on the model of the cadillac

Assuming your button doesn't work...the latch is in the trunk on the upper left side. If the end tab has broken off, wire will be behind felt covering

junkyard, e-bay, or a local swap meet.

The 1999 Cadillac Deville headlight relay switch can be found in the fuse box. The headlight relay switch will be in the third column, second from the top.

the code is 1989 cadillac Devillle and i am not kidding

i just got one. if i have the wheel in the center and then turn it left or right, there is a little bit of a hard spot on either side of dead center when turning the wheel, but then it's light as a feather once it gets going. i have no idea why it does it, but it's probably just how it is.

diagram for 94 Cadillac Seville starter

below the front bumper and behind the fasia on the driver side.

The steering wheel cover on a 1998 Cadillac SLS is not secured with bolts or anything so it just takes force to remove it. It will not break so do not be afraid to use some strength to get it off.

Underneath the Intake Manifold. 2.5 hours labor at most shops not including new gaskets and Misc. Parts. I would like to slap the moron that designed the northstar engine.

you have to get another car and some jumpercables you hook the jumpercables on the batterys while the 2nd car is still running let it charge for about 1 min. then try to start the deville

Actually, 2000 and newer cadillac devilles are not that simple. The battery is located under the rear passenger bench seat. You can do it that way but it is more time consuming, there is a simpler way. Under the hood on the left side of the engine, located where the fuse panel is (towards the front of the engine compartment) you will see a little red cap. You can lift it up easily, and under that cap you will see a red wire attached to a bolt. The bolt sticks up maybe and inch? and you can attach red jumper to it. The negative can be a little to find. It is shaped like a tab, usually black and is attached to the engine directly. It is located on top of engine and approx. 6 inches behind power steering pump. Of course, you can just attach neg jumper to the power steering line right on top of the engine, as it is metal and will accomplish same thing. This sounds tough but its relatively easy once you find those two places to hook it on to.

The Northstar engine oil pressure sending unit is located near the oil filter. Northstar's have a large oil volume compared to most small V8's (7.5 quarts). The engine, especially at idle, has a low oil pressure requuirement, probably only 4-5 psi. If the low oil pressure light flickers once or twice and then goes out, I wouldn't worry about it. Keep the oil level up (NOT overfilled, just in the hash-marks of the dipstick) and be sure you use the correct weight and grade. I think the 94's called for 10-30W oil.

hey 1st drain the drain plug near bottom of radiator or remove lower radiator hose which to will drain coolant also, then remove upper hose , then remove fan shroud then remove bolts disconnect transmission cooler lines ,last carefully remove radiator

If you're not the original owner of the car, I'd recommend you have a refrigerant purity test performed at a shop. A 1990 would have used R-12 - however, many R-12 systems were later retrofitted to R-134a, and this cannot be determined by visual inspection - they usually retained the R-12 schrader valves, even after conversion to R-134a.

The climate control module is part of the control assembly. The entire assembly has to be replaced as one unit for the 1990 models.

Remove the decorative radio cover. Remove the radio retaining screws. Slide the radio out. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the radio.