Chevy Beretta

remove bezel that covers radio and hvac controls, two ten millimeter bolt hold it in, unhook wiring pack(s) and antenna wire.

oil is thinner when its hot, that's why.

First you have to remove the head. Scrape all the gasket gunk off best you can with a razor blade. If necessary, very carefully use a soft wire brush or steel wool. After that task is completed, make sure the new head gasket is the correct one. (yes parts can be put in the wrong packaging. it happens more often than you probably think) Before the head is put back on, it has to be machined!!! Trust me. If you cut this corner and don't have this done, you will be replacing that gasket again very soon, or worse, cracked head or a cracked block. It is very important that this is done. Most machine shops will do it for anywhere between $25 and $80, depending where you go. Reason this must be done is because the engine block is cast iron and the heads are aluminum. Under high temperatures and over time the aluminum heads warp just a tad bit, since aluminum is a softer metal than cast iron it gives in too much to cause problems later on if the head is not machined to a flat fitting again. A lot of times its best to listen to the old-timers, but in this case you shouldn't. THE HEAD HAS TO BE MACHINED! Well during the process of removing all those bolts and disconnecting things, you should have kept a log of where everything goes and plugs into. Basically just start going in reverse of disassembling the head and componets by putting it all back together. Before you go tightening nuts and bolts, make sure what your supposed to torque everything to according to manufacturer specifications. Remember, get the heads machined before putting them back on. Marshall Dailey from Paris, Illinois wrote this description!

First you have to remove the head. Scrape all the gasket gunk off best you can with a razor blade. If necessary, very carefully use a soft wire brush or steel wool. After that task is completed, make sure the new head gasket is the correct one. (yes parts can be put in the wrong packaging. it happens more often than you probably think) Before the head is put back on, it has to be machined!!! Trust me. If you cut this corner and don't have this done, you will be replacing that gasket again very soon, or worse, cracked head or a cracked block. It is very important that this is done. Most machine shops will do it for anywhere between $25 and $80, depending where you go. Reason this must be done is because the engine block is cast iron and the heads are aluminum. Under high temperatures and over time the aluminum heads warp just a tad bit, since aluminum is a softer metal than cast iron it gives in too much to cause problems later on if the head is not machined to a flat fitting again. A lot of times its best to listen to the old-timers, but in this case you shouldn't. THE HEAD HAS TO BE MACHINED! Well during the process of removing all those bolts and disconnecting things, you should have kept a log of where everything goes and plugs into. Basically just start going in reverse of disassembling the head and componets by putting it all back together. Before you go tightening nuts and bolts, make sure what your supposed to torque everything to according to manufacturer specifications. Remember, get the heads machined before putting them back on.

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

if this is the 3.1L v6 version, then there is a belt tensioner pulley on the left side of block.,,, ( looking from the passenger side of the car it is left side) Loosen bolt holding it on and it will release tension for it to turn and loosen the belt

the system works like this. The eng has a thermo switch, which sences coolent temps around 185 to 195 fer. it produces a closed circut, which then applys voltage to the rad fan relay. which then handle lots more current, i.e amps. could be a number of things, like thermostat,bad rad cap, thermo switch, fuse, relay,defective fan. or low on coolent. VonJay F Leichtfuss

Underneath the dash by glove top of panel

ck your oil level make sure it is up to the top line........................you have a clasped lifter does it quite down when it gets warm

you probably have a bad intake or head gasket

Follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine. It's behind there.

105 amp.

there is a drag race car that is a Chevy beretta, outside of that most of the beretta fan boys, like myself, have engine swapped, etc... in terms of the fastest (could-have-been) production model, the actual beretta Indy 500 convertible that paced the 1990 Indy500 opening lap was a 5-6 0-60 time with 245 horsepower, they took components from the corvettes, cadillacs, and the 3.4L block of a Buick and made a very fast FWD convertible. It had much giddyup, and came packaged with a 4 speed racing transmission geared for optimal performance. The fastest beretta model available to the general public (without any mods) would be the 1990-1992 beretta GTZ with the 5 speed getrag transmission and the high output, 190 horsepower Oldsmobile Quard Four engine. As for ""concept cars"" the best conecpt model was a twin turbo model, but it never met the GM quality standards and the project was disbanded... Damn, wish that car was built because it screamed with over 300 - 350 horsepower... hope that helps. I have owned 2 berettas and I currently am driving the limited edition Indy 500 pace car in teal with the very rare 5 speed manual transmission and a 3.1L v6... more info needed on the beretta models? Just Google it and you will find numerous websites with the specs and package options for each model for each year... (PS) the z26 is a fast beretta (1994-1996) but it's also much heavier than the earlier models.

well it could be a few things wrong id check the water pump first as this also happend to my 92 beretta when replacing the water pump be sure to get a new gasket most of the time they come with one and it can only go on a certen way the bolts might seem like they are all lined up and most will fit but the tab must be up straight and if that doesnt fix it you might need to get a new fan relay switch as well the water pump is about30.00 dollars at checker or auto zone and id recomend some thread lock as well because it will be on moving parts with alot of tension and vibration from the belt and pully. hope this helped buddy

There is a sensor valve located inside the reservoir its may be bad

The early 1900's like from 1907-1913

You have to pull the steering wheel off to get the whole turn signal stat out and replace the whole thing.

Do you have power at the fuel pump relay test connection. do you have fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.

It has 1 O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold behind the engine

I am not exactly sure on the 1990 model, but on 93-97 it is located on the transmission next to the firewall aprox 20 inches below the brake master cylinder. Remove the air cleaner, there is a diagonally positioned bracket w/ 2ea. 10mm bolts and a ground wire that must removed for access. It is held on by a 10mm bolt which is easily removed with a 24" extension and 10mm socket. The VSS is difficult to see and will need to be rotated w/ tools and a wire lasso to provide vertical lift. The removal process can take several hours and a great deal of patience.

If you don't have a manual, GET ONE!

This is the check engine light (that's why it's shaped like an engine...)

It could be anything from low gas pressure to a vacuum leak to burnt valves, anything that causes irregularities in the engine's operation will trigger this light. There are a dozen sensors for different things (air, gas, spark, and all the things necessary to keep them balanced), and when one of them detects that something's out of whack, it lights this up.

Your mechanic can get the code for what's wrong off the car's computer, or you can buy an OBDII (On Board Diagnostic) tool yourself and read the codes.

Caution; some conditions will WRECK YOUR ENGINE if you drive with them unrepaired for too long!

crankshaft position sen. is almost dead center (drivers/passenger sides) 3/4 of the way down the firewall side of the engine...it has a bolt and a sen. clip...i had to go in the pass. side up by the firewall and down almost by the exhaust man. good luck and hope you got skinny arms like me

1-2-3-4-5-6

check fuel pump relay, mass air flow sensor in the intake or egr valve stack open and oxygen sensor so there are checks that need to be done to find out the cause problem.

ignition module is located under the distributor, where the spark plugs come out to go to the spark plugs, remove 6 bolts that hold the 3 capped distributor on, unplug the wires from both ends of module, 3 plugs, lift module out, nothing holds it in after distributor is removed, plug new module in, replace distributor.

The proper spark plug gap for a 1992 Chevy Beretta typically ranges from 0.040 to 0.060 inches, depending on the specific engine type. For most models equipped with the 2.2L or 3.1L engines, a gap of about 0.060 inches is recommended. Always consult the owner's manual or a repair guide for your specific engine to confirm the exact specifications.