Chevy Metro

10.3 Gal

Hi: If you are asking - can you replace an automatic trans for a manual trans...... My very excellent local auto repair shop owner, assures me that one cannot do this. Perhaps someone with a full auto workshop, and the ability to weld and make components that are needed to add the clutch pedal and the manual shifter to the existing chassis, might be able to do this, but there doesn't seem to be a way to just swap transmissions. It's probably cheaper to sellthe one you have and go buy a standard trans Geo. If you just want to replace the manual trans for another manual trans... get the manual from Amazon: For example for Canada: http://www.amazon.ca/Chevrolet-Sprint-Automotive-Repair-Manual/dp/1563924536/sr=8-1/qid=1157645711/ref=sr_1_1/702-2995421-1171233?ie=UTF8&s=gateway I may be replacing my own 97 auto trannie shortly - the old one died at 107,000 km with a rather loud "Bang!" I'll try to add any useful comments about this later. By the way, we love this great little car! Phil.

Depending on the year Metros usually lasted between 180,000 miles and 250,000 miles. 1989 - 1997 metros usually go up to 180,000 before needing major repair. 1998 - 2001 were not as good and usually went up to 130,000 before needing work done. It all depends how the car was treated. They are good cars for the price.

The 1998-2000 Chevy Metro with 1.0L engine has an oil capacity of 3.5 quarts.

you cant. the crank sprocket is keyed (it will only go on one way) and timing is controled through the PCM. hope this helps.

Disconnect battery a battery terminal Losen the Alternator bolt which is located on the up/down bracket. Once losen, you can adjust the tightness/slackness of the belt. Hope this helps, james

It is located in the top of the motor with a rubber tube/hose going to the air cleaner I believe.

Because one quart of transmission fluid isn't enough. Call a Chevy dealership and ask them how much more you need to put in.

no. all geo metro 1.0L motors are non-interference motors. however it would be a very good idea to make sure the timing belt tensioner spring and tensioner roller and timing gears were not damaged by the bad timing belt. also you will have to clean out any debris at the crank position sensor at the crankshaft when installing the new timing belt so the fragments will not interfere with the sensor picking up the timing signal off the motor

on the radio panel youll see 2 buttons with up and down arrows one on the left below the volume knob and to the right next to it. On the right button, press and hold down or up. thatll set the time.

On your 2000 CHEVROLET METRO (1.0L TBI), it is located: Under vehicle, center, below seating area, mounted in fuel tank

Turn the distributer to the right very slightly

Mine has done this too. The answer is that the parking pin and the locking mechanism that holds the shifter in gear jams up.

I fix this by putting one hand on one side of the shifter, and slamming the button on the other side between the palms of my hands. Then, I yank it into gear. It's crude, but it works.. The only way I know to fix this is to take the assembly apart and round the latch so it doesn't jam as easily.

In my 98 Metro 3 cyl 5 speed I changed the timing belt and continued to have a oil leak in the area around the oil pump. After several remove and reinstall procedures of the front plate that houses the oil pump I realized one of the alighnment pins on either side of the crankshaft ( fits into block )was missing. Installed new alighnment pin and reinstalled front plate and the oil leak has vanished.

can you change the alternator belt in a 1998 Chevy metro from under the car.

you dont adjust a tension pulley you adjust the position of the compressor to tighten the belt

98 Chevy metros are all front wheel drive

Buy the manual. If you have never attempted this before and can't do it by reading the manual, then don't try it. It's not worth screwing up and killing someone.

98-01 are Chevy, previous years are Geo, still both engines were make by Suzuki.

'The 3cyl model engines are different from the crank bolt pattern, the Geo was a 4 bolt, and the Chevy a 5.'

From 1998,

"The Metro now carried the Chevrolet nameplate, along with new front and rear fascias and a SOHC 16v design I-4 1.3L engine with a horsepower increase of 12%.

Electronic ignition replaced the distributor, and MPFI (Multiport Fuel Injection) replaced the TBI (Throttle Body Injection). The new motor offered more HP, torque, and higher fuel economy. This I-4 engine replaced the older 8v 4 cylinder, but the 3 cylinder engine remained unchanged." from Wikipedia "Geo Metro."

You may notice that 3-speed automatic transmissions are much more common for Chevy Metros than Geo Metros, as well as four cylinder engines. Standard transmission and 3 cylinder engines seem to be less common Chev Metros.

A 4 cylinder engine model option was introduced in 1995 into the Geo Metro line. 4 cylinders were standard for Suzuki Swifts even before 1995.

Should be listed in the owner's manual. If you don't have one and can't find one from a dealership it may be best to pick up a Hayne's or Chilton's manual for a few bucks.

Fuel injection

The easy part is getting the panel off. The problem is what you're going to find inside the door. So, first, to remove the panel, remove the trim that surrounds the mirror adjustment, then the screws in the door latch cover, the two screws from the pull handle and (I think one more...). Then you have to remove the window crank handle -- the first Real Pain in the process. The problem here is that the handle is held on by a bent (nearly circular) wire clip. This clip fits in a grove to hold the thing on. You've seen this sort of thing before, probably, it's a common scheme. The shop manual says to slide a rag under the handle and lift ... Be creative and try not to break things or invoke any pagen dieties... Once all this stuff is off, you have to kind of lift the panel off, realizing that there are clips all around... Next, you'll find a plastic vapor barrier on the metal part of the door. You don't have to remove this completely, but you can do so... just remember how it went on. Hint: This is what digital cameras are for! If you don't have one, get one at WalMart for $30. It'll save a Lot of grief in putting things back together. OK. Now you're down to the metal. You're going to have to take off several screws (it's kinda obvious which ones) to get inside the door. You will need a Good Large Phillips head screwdriver. (I think it's about 6 screws.) Don't do all this yet, just look at the way things are put together with a small mirror and flashlight (inside the door). You will need to remove the screw(s) that hold on the plastic bracket thing... Look around and it should be clear which other ones to take out. Now, you are going to have to remove the window from the lifting mechanism. It has to be raised a bit to do this ... but with the thing all open you can do this. You'll see the window glass is held on with a bracket and screws. Undo these -- carefully -- and (after taking pictures!) pull the glass out. Again, be careful!! You are now ready to remove the regulator assembly. Take all those 6 or so screws out and fuss and play with it to get it out. NOW FOR THE PROBLEM. What you're very likely going to find is that the window raising sissor mechanism is Severely Bent. This happens 'cuz some unsuspecting person tried to force the window up. You are going to have to straighten these sissor arms and then likely also remove and repair the aluminum slot that guides the free end of the sissor mechanism. This slot guide must be perfectly parallel and the proper distance to match the nylon bearing that runs inside. You will also have to figure out what it should look like, since it'll very likely be quite damaged (i.e. bent). Go to your Chevy dealer. Ask him for the part number of "The Regulator Assembly". He'll tell you that you can but a new one for something close to $140. Ask him/her for a printout of the catalogue illustration. He'll do that for free, and in simpathy for the $140 price. Take this picture home -- or even enlarge it at the local copy shop -- and study it. If you think you can may your parts look like the picture, then do so. Otherwise you gotta spend the $140. Oh yes, and when you put things back together, make sure you get the window in properly, or it will exert too much force when you raise it, and you'll destroy the new/repaired regulator arms you just put in. Sometimes it helps to use two hands to raise the window, lifting with one while cranking with the other. Try this while eating a 'burger and talking on the cell phone. It's a good way to illustrate the multitasking capabilities of the human species... and the closemindedness of the local law enforcement folks if they see you doing this. Good Luck! (MikeG)