Chevy Trucks and SUVs

It depends on what year. For 72 and earlier (in the dash) follow this. 1. Turn ignition switch to off position and leave the key in the switch. 2. Disconnect the battery. 3. Take a small dia. paper clip and insert it into the small hole in the face of the ignition switch. You will feel a small button that you depress. 4. While depressing the button, turn the key to the accessory position (counter clockwise) and using the key remove the cylinder. 5. You can now remove the bezel by unscrewing it CCW. 6. This will allow you to remove the ignition switch from the dash and disconnect the wire harness plug from the rear of the switch. I hope this helps someone. From an old gear head.

Find the horn and remove the wire going to the horn/s it should have a connector you can seemly slide off however if it dont you may have to clip the wire and tape the end so it doesn't short if it goes to ground. A horn in many states is required your best cure is to fix the problem and to leave the horn alone. , EzForJesus

Because ammeters have low resistance. If you connected them in parallel, all the current would flow through the ammeter instead of the circuit you were trying to test, possibly frying the meter but certainly invalidating the measurement.

You connect a galvanometer in series with the circuit being measured, because the galvanometer is a form of ammeter, although an extremely sensitive one, and ammeters measure the current in a series circuit.

It measures the current.

i want this answer

To increase the range of an ammeter, you connect a very low impedance resistor in parallel with the ammeter.

The purpose of an ammeter is to sense and display the magnitude of the current

flowing through it. When connected in series with a branch of an electrical circuit,

the meter displays the magnitude (and direction) of the current in that path ... which

you can't otherwise tell just by looking at the circuit.

An ammeter is an instrument which is used for measurement of current flowing in any circuit

Ammeter should be inserted in the place where we need to find the current. Care must be taken while inserting ammeter such that it is in series always. For example if we need to measure the current through any device, we have to connect the ammeter in series with tht device.

When considering electricity,

Current (measured in Amps) is often considered the flow of energy.

The force behind the flow is the Volts.

While the volts can be measured between any two points in the circuit (open, or closed), measuring the current, or flow of energy typically requires interrupting the flow.

Somewhat like water. One can measure pressure of the water on a branch, but one must have a way to monitor the actual flow to determine how much water has passed.

There are "exceptions" though.

If you have an AC circuit, then an inductive ammeter can measure the amps around a single leg if the circuit without being installed inline with the circuit.

Even with a DC circuit, it may be desirable to design a bypass or shunt circuit so that the majority of the current bypasses the ammeter, and only a small amount of the current actually flows through the ammeter.

Ammeters are added in series to the circuit to be monitored.

An ammeter is a low voltage voltmeter in parallel with a small resistance resistor. Current flow through the resistor creates a voltage drop across it which is then measured by the voltmeter.

You would be drawing more current. It would be the same as adding more load to the circuit in a vehicle, say more lights. The lights would just be seen as more load (a resistive load in the case of incandescent lights). Add more lights (resistors) and more current is needed. The ammeter would indicate a higher current draw.

That is a 350 that was used from 1987 to 1995, It could be a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main and did not say for sure. It could also have a roller are flat tappet camshaft in it.

It does have a 1 piece rear main seal.

The only problem they had with them is the block cracking down in the lifter gallery.

Those blocks were thin and weak in that area. Not a good block for high performance useage are high RPMs. Hope I helped.

6

You either have to pull the engine or drop the transmission, which ever your more comfortable with.

nope... ;(

It looks like 2005 was a transition year between the 4L80E and Allison 1000 with 6.0 engine. Sounds like 4L80E was typical, but easily upgraded to Allison at time of ordering, but also depending on packages and equipment.

If it has an external filter it is the Allison, otherwise it is 4L80E version.

With out hearing it, It is hard to say whats wrong. But the most common noise like that would probley be a ROD knocking. Time for engine overhaul.

You need to check the front wheel bearings, while driveing down the road stright turn the steering to the left and then to the right and listen to see if the hum noise changes, if not then both bearings are bad left and right sides. If the hum noise changes while turning to the left then right front bearings are bad , if hum noise changes while weaven to the right then left bearings are bad.

No it is not. Before it would hurt the valve train, something would have to happen at a very high RPMs. The timing chain going out will not hurt the valves are the head.

94 is the year most vehicles were in the change-over stage from the factory from r-12 to r134, look for a yellow tag/stick under the hood as to which is in your system. It came from the factory with R12 Freon installed. Unless it has been converted to R134, then it still has R12. Due to the extremely high cost of R12, I suggest you convert it over to R134a.

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