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CV Joints
Commonly used in all wheel drive and front wheel drive vehicles, constant-velocity (CV) joint refers to a universal joint that permits a rotating shaft to transmit power through a variable angle without increasing friction, at constant rotational speed.
889 Questions
Why would a car shake while driving?
then check wheel balance
It could be your alignment. If it's off it shakes.
If the vibration is from about 45 mph and faster the tires are out of balance or bad.
If its vibrating at a slower speed you have a bad suspension part and if it vibrates at idle you need a diagnostic and possibly a tune-up.
First check the balance of your tires. This is the cheapest scenario. Then the suspension and allignment.
More advice:
- Check for mud, ice or sand in rim. Check wheel bearings for play if none,test driveaxles by lifting car up and holding one wheel with a bar while someone puts in drive and presses on the gas to see which side the shake comes from. I replaced both axles and the shake was less but still present. I changed the carrier with spiders and the problem went away.
you could also have a separated or broken belt in the tire
How much is it to fix a CV Joint on a 1996 Toyota Avalon?
expect to spend between 150 to 250 depending on the price of the axle. that is the going rate in my shop.
What is the cost of a cv joint for a 1997 jeep?
I just replaced a cv joint on a 1995 grand Cherokee the part cost me about 150 bucks.Im not sure but I would think the 97 would have the same part number
How do you install or repair CV joints on a Nissan Maxima?
Just spent this weekend replacing the CV joint boot, which is basically the same steps as replacing the joint. - Before you begin, borrow (normally free) a CV Joint Puller/or transaxle puller from a local auto store. It should be the kind with the 5 lb sliding weight. Also, get a clamping tool, if the new boot with clamps are the type that need the clamping tool (about $5). You can save a lot of time by getting a 36mm socket for the wheel nut.
- Put on emergency brake (so car doesn't roll)
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts for the side you are going to replace.
- Jack that wheel up only, and remove tire (you need the other wheel grounded to give you leverage when you remove the main wheel nut).
- Remove wheel nut cotter pin.
- Remove nut cap.
- Remove wheel nut. This is difficult without the right size socket (36mm) because it has about 170lbs of torque. I used a large pair of vice grips and a hammer to remove it no problem. Needed socket on other side.
- Remove the washer.
- Now, jack up the other front side of the car, and put it on a stand. This takes all tension off the suspension which is VERY important.
- Remove the two bolts holding the brake assembly. Use a hanger to hang it from the spring out of the way. There is no reason to dissassemble the brake unit unless you want to examine the condition.
- The rotor should slip off.
- Now, unattach the strut. Remove the two bolts holding the steering nuckle to the strut. Again, this takes a lot of force and you need to use a socket (or wrench) on one side to hold the bolt while you use a socket (19mm and 17mm) to take off the nut and bolt.
- Now, rotate the steering nuckle down and away from strut. You may need to loosen the brake line, if it restricts the steering nuckle.
- There should be just enough room to pull the CV joint out of the steering nuckle. If not, try pushing down on the nuckle as you slip the CV joint out.
- Remove old outer boot and clamps (if just replacing outer boot)
- Now the fun part. Attach the CV joint puller (or transaxle puller) to the end of the CV joint axle. Using the sliding weight, thrust it outward quickly while holding the transaxle. This "should" pop the CV joint off the transaxle. If not, keep trying. If you want to simply remove the entire transaxle, don't hold the axle and allow the puller to pull on the entire assembly from the transmission. I only needed to replace the boot, so separating the CV joint from the transaxle was all I needed.
- Clean CV joint using some type of degreaser/cleaner and allow to dry.
- Check for damage of course (i.e. metal filings, broken or heavily scarred bearings or gouges inside joint). If so, you need new joint.
- Repack clean CV joint.
- Put duct tape over threads on transaxle, and slide new boot onto transaxle. (don't forget the clamps as well) and remove duct tape.
- Put the main wheel nut back on the end of the CV Joint assembly, as you will be striking it with a mallet. Then allign CV joint to transaxle end (which should have a C-clip at the end). Using some agility and making sure the transaxle, and CV joint are alligned and pressed toward the transmission (i.e. no play), use a heavy mallet and strike the CV joint back onto the transaxle. It took me about 10 strikes before it snapped back into position mainly because I allowed too much play and was not pushing towards the transmission so I was not getting a powerful strike with the mallet. Also, the joint has to slip past the little clip on the end of the transaxle.
- Allign the boot into position, position clamps, and clamp it down with a clamping tool or screw-driver depending on the type of clamp.
- Slide newly booted CV joint end into steering nuckle.
- Rotate nuckle up into strut, allign two holes and replace screws and nuts.
- Reattach rotor.
- Reattach brake assembly housing.
- Lower other side of car (again to give you friction when the main wheel nut goes back on.
- Reinstall washer and nut. Again, you should torque to specifications which is roughly 170-190 lbs.
- Reattach nut cap.
- Replace cotter pin (use new one if you have one)
- Reattach wheel
- Lower vehicle and test drive
Will CV joint be damaged if you don't replace both wheel bearings?
An extremely loose wheel bearing can cause the cv joint to be damaged.
How do you remove and replace CV joints on a 1993 Plymouth Voyager?
Don't bother replacing the joints, replace the axles. The cost isn't much different and your getting new joints and boots, not to mention less time to do it. Check for weak motor mounts on this van, they contibute to axles popping out if they are too weak. Alignment of where the motor sets is critical.
How do you fix cv joint for a Kia Rio?
Replace the entire "half-shaft" The new one will have a warranty. Unless you're a good mechanic this is best done by a pro. The brake and suspension must be disconnected. I bought mine on line and saved a bunch.
How do you replace CV joints on 1995 Ford Festiva?
for just a cv joint u need to get a center punch and tap the indent on the nut out so you can loosen the nut in the center of the wheel. Jack the car up and put it safely on blocks as a jack by its self will be unsafe as you can knock the car around alot. Then remove the wheel. remove the break calipers (be careful not to damage the flexible break line). then remove the center nut all the way. undo and remove the 2 bolts that attach the hub to the suspension. now the hub should be able to move freely around to the rear side of the car. you should be able to push the cv joint out of the hub with abit of effort (be aware that it may be rusted in, so spray it with degreaser and give it gentle taps with a mallet. Be AWARE that if you hit it too hard you may damage the bearing). now if just replacing the cv joint and not the drive shaft, remove the rubber boot and tap the back of the cv joint towards you with a with a mallet (be carefull not to hit your self). put the new cv joint in and do the above in reverse. also if you have some graphite grease on hand rub abit on the splines that go into the hub to make for easy removal down the track, as they can rust in place. (remember to fill the new cv with grease and to top up your gearbox oil) To do the whole shaft just do the same but instead of removing the boot you should be able to pull the shaft out of the gearbox with short, sharp, powerful bursts. If not you will need to use a crowbar in on the inner cv joint where it goes into the gearbox to pop it out (this can take abit of effort so make sure the car is secure on its blocks and heave lol). Note: when you take the cv shafts out check to see if the screws on the break disc are not loose. if they are remove one screw and put locktight on it then put it back and repeat with the other. Hope this helps Brian
Zappa66@hotmail.com
Why is your Ford Windstar making a ticking noise from the AXLE when you make a turn?
This is a key symptom of the CV (constant velocity) joint in the axle assembly is failing.
Ambitious, but certainly 'doable' for the DIYer, and should be something less than an 'arm & a leg' to have done by a mechanic.
Note: one source, O'Reillys, prices axles between $85-110
If the axle itself is needing replacement, that's not such a bad job. Involves mostly the same as replacing wheel bearing/hub assembly.
The added steps are in actually pulling the axle shaft out of the transmission and inserting/setting the new one in.
I would encourage anyone doing this to gather more information from a manual, or at least the very fine *free* "Repair Guide" over at Autozone.com
NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
To check, lift the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Reach up and grab the center shaft and push and pull on it (side to side motion). There should only be marginal side to side play.
Also look at dust boots at the joints to see if they are ripped open or torn.
See "Related Questions" below for the ball joint procedure information and more.
How do you replace the passenger side CV joint in a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan 3 3lt with ABS?
don't repalce just the cv joint. You should purchase a rebuilt axle, it will be cheaper and easier. You should be able to get a repair manual from you local library. This should be a fairly straight forward job.
How much money to replace a cv joint on a Nissan Maxima 2000?
not expinsive if you do it your self its like 69$ for the cvaxil
if u need help email me at charlie_t33810@yahoo.com
Replaced CV Joints now car runs and speedometer moves but why won't my car go forward or in reverse?
in some vehicles, two axles cannot be pulled out at the same time. part of the transmission drops down and causes the problem you have now. if the wrong axles were installed, your problem may occur. finally, if the inner joint was not installed completely into the transmission, your vehicle will not move.
unfortunately wiki answers does not let us put any diagrams or images into our answers. So the image is unavailable
How do you rebuild cv joint on 1980 dodge front driveshaft?
well, either you have CV joints or a drive shaft. if its a drive shaft you replace the universal joints just like you would on you rear drive shaft. if you are talking about the axle universals on a 4x4 you have to start by removing the brake rotor this would be a good time change the bearings, even if the dont need to be it will be a good preventive messure. from there you be able to see the outer axle assembly and the u-joint check for retaining clips either on the u-joint caps or toward inside behind the yolk eyes. remove the the retaining clips and use a BRASS hammer and maybe an old socket that is just a bit smaller than your u-joint caps and knock the u-joint out, this may take a little bit of strong fanese and a few choice word( i found that helps). when installing new part it helps to have a large C-clamp to press caps in place. hope this helps
How do you know if your car's CV joint is bad?
Generall when your car's CV joints are gone you will hear a clunking noise coming from the front CV's usually when turning corners but may happen regularly when they are really bad. Generally what causes them to go is the boot is split which allows dirt in and destroys the joint. Stick your head under the car and if the boots around the joints are split....its time for new (or reconditioned) CV's
You will hear a clicking noise on turns
It is usually most noticeable when pulling out left or right from a stop sign. You will hear a clicking/clunking noise, increasing with the speed of the wheels and fading as the steering wheel returns to a centered position. This is made by the outer CV joints, as the most stresses are placed on them they tend to wear out faster.
If the flexible rubber boot around the CV joint is torn, and/or there is evidence of grease leakage present, they will rapidly wear without immediate maintenance.
I think you mean axle shaft joint. The usual symptom of a bad axle shaft joint is a crunching noise when turning corners.
apart from a visual check, leaking or split boots etc, the best way to get a CV joint to misbehave on demand is to drive on full locks from side to side. this puts the joint under maximum stress and will produce a knocking noise if faulty robb
1. Physically examine the rubber "boots" that cover the cv joints. If they are cracked or leaking grease and you haven't dealt with the problem IMMEDIATELY, the cv joints are probably bad.
2. When turning the wheel sharp, if the front end makes a clicking or banging noise when the vehicle moves you almost certainly have bad cv joints.
when you make right and left turns and a clicking noise is present or if when the car is jacked up the rubber boots on the cv joints are expose.
Clicking noises from the front wheel(s) while turning.
Also, inspect the CV joint rubber boots - if they're torn, you're almost guaranteed to have to ultimately replace the half-axel.
When my Taurus CV joint completely broke in half (because I didn't know about the symptomatic clicking noise!), it was in the parking lot of the repair shop! Good timing.
A (CV) Constant Velocity boot covers a precision power transfer joint. The broken "boot" allows contamination of the joint. Broken boot = early mechanical failure.
How do you know if you have a bad ball joint or a bad struts?
A good way I found to check struts, is to bounce the vehicle's front end by pushing down on the bumper if it bounces more than 3x get'r done, or a visual would be to check for leaks on the strut shaft itself.
AnswerI had a bad ball joint on my passenger side and my car squealed very loudly and pulled to the right just before it broke on me. When I replaced that broken ball joint. when I put the new one on, it was pulling to the right again and my steering wheel would turn about 10 degrees to the right when accelerating in any gear, shortly after that the lock nut came off and my ball joint broke again.Struts are bad when you can bounce your car easily, it dips hard in the front when you brake, or it bounces like crazy when you hit bumps.
In addition to the ball joint reply, begin simply by looking at the rubber covering the joint. If there is a tear, it needs replaced. A good maintenance principle is repair before something needs replaced. This part is listed to be replaced just as your tie rods, and any other similar part. Just like you change the oil, plugs, wires, tires, brakes, etc: these parts are intregal to safety and really don't cost a whole lot to replace. There should not be any gaps or movement in the joint. I have found that most folks don't change them until it causes further problems like the post before this one. Instead of just needing the ball joint replaced, now his spindle has worn and is causing slack and busting. Ball joints are 30-40 bucks. 1hr shop labor
Would a bad cv joint have a burning smell upon driving?
While it is possible it is highly unlikely. A burning smell is usually associated with a brake that is overheating. If you suspect either of these things it is important to get the vehicle looked at right away as they could cause you to lose control of the vehicle.
How do you change a CV joint on a 1997 Honda Civic?
If the CV boot is torn open forget about re-booting the joint, buy a remanufactured axle and replace it. If the boot is starting to crack or separate but has not torn open to the point you can see the cv joint itself you can re-boot it.
Replacing CV JointsThere are places that sell the halfshaft axles already rebuilt as cheap as you can replace the joints.Call your local parts stores.
due to the age of the vehicle, i would recommend a new(or rebuilt) cv axle. if you are insistant on doing just the boot, cut the outer boot off. next, using a deadblow hammer, tap the outer joint off. of course it would be easier to take the axle out of the vehicle to do so.
How do you replace the drivers side half shaft?
The question you ask is tooinvolved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, andget a repair manual for your car.They cost about $16.00Or, go to a Public Library.
First off, knowing what kind of vehicle you are doing this on, helps ! Axle shafts usually are one complete unit or they are like 2 shafts that make up one, often the transaxle end is an axle rod which is supported by an arbor, the actual axle shaft has the cv joints and it connects to the "axle rod" by way of the aupport arbor.
In removing this type of axle shaft, you don't have to mess w\ the end going into the transaxle, Its suggested that you can remove the axle shaft from the support arbor by tapping it out w\ a plastic mallet ?! Note that in this type of axle setup, you don't have to drain the transaxle fluid.
Otherwise the rest of the procedure for it or regular axle shafts are about the same.. If the axle is going to removed from the transaxle, you should drain the transaxle fluid.
Obviously all safety precautions should be taken w\ respect to jackstands supporting vehicle, wheels blocked, brake on, battery disconnected etc .. I will give generalized steps in how I have removed them..**NOTE, some vehicles may require removal of other components or special tools to complete the job, this is merely generalized!
In some cases you may consider leaving the car on the ground and in gear to LOOSEN the axle nut-Note-you need to unstake the little tab on the nut to be able to loosen it, Raise vehicle, remove wheel,Next loosen or remove the bolt where the ball joint connects to the spindle,In some cases you may have to remove the tie rod end from the spindle or you may need to remove the anti-roll bar bolts from their attaching point, usually a control arm bracket..I usually remove the anti-roll bar bolts from the bracket that attaches it to the control arm, this allows for more movement..
It may be a good idea to have an assistant at this point, or at the least, place a cinderblock or similar object nearby while you attempt to separate the ball joint from the spindle, I sometimes need a hammer to tap on the control arm to help loosen the balljoint from w\in the pinch bolt hole on the spindle.You might have to work it back and forth a little and push down on the control arm enough to get the balljoint out, you can then move the spindle assembly out of alignment w\ the balljoint, you DONT want to pull the spindle assembly towards you as this may over-extend the cv joints and possibly cause pre-mature failure, its been suggested.
An assistant could help to keep the spindle assembly from overextending at this point and offer some manueverability while you begin to remove the axle from the transaxle.
Otherwise you can set the spindle assembly on the cinderblock or other object that keeps the spindle at a level position,
Now, its time to remove the axle from the transaxle.It is said, you need only to use a prybay and gently pry or give a sharp rap w\ a hammer to remove the axle.
I've not found this the case, most often, it takes some brute strength, this depends on the accessibility to the trans side cv joint, if you can get in a couple of prybars one on one side of the shaft, one on the other so you can pry evenly, a little tap may be all it takes, but in most of my situations, you have to get in as best you can on a good angle and hammer away on the prybar.PLEASE note that you need to have some extension in the axle joints otherwise the axle is exerting some pressure on itself and while you're hammering to pry it out, it's working against you! You can fix this by positioning the spindle side joint slightly out from the car or have the assistant help w\ this...
((The thing that holds the axle in, is a C-shaped ring that in it's normal state is larger than the hole the axle passes through, upon insertion or removal the ring is compressed into the groove of the axle, once inside it pops back out.))
So just work at it and it should come out, I've not come across one yet that won't. *WARNING, be careful not to damage the transaxle seal while prying on the cv joint housing,Usually these seals have an outer hard metal casing and though you may end up bending it, doesnt always indicate its going to need replacing.. You'll know if you start seeing trans fluid on the ground <_>
As you are pulling the axle out of the transaxle (or reinstalling one) be careful as the splines could damage the transaxle seal, also be careful not to OVERextend the joints, again, at this point an assitant can be helpful for removing the loosened axle nut and getting the axle out of the spindle, or you may be able to lay the axle on the ground or an object to keep it level w\ the other end of the axle,Then you can remove the loosened axle nut, push or lightly tap the axle through the spindle and viola, axle removed.
There are some variations to how this whole procedure can be done but I outlined what is most common for me, I someone.
What is the clicking noise in driver side front tire every time it makes a revolution?
CV joints need to be replaced
How do you use a pickle fork to remove a CV joint?
The pickle fork will have to be wide enough to slide around the tripod joint housing. Hold it at 45 degrees and give it a good solid whack. Hard enough whack to dislodge the C clip holding it in. Hope this helps
Are struts the same thing as cv joints?
No, a Strut is basically a shock with a built on spring.
A CV joint is the "flex" joint in a drive shaft.
No, a Strut is basically a shock with a built on spring.
A CV joint is the "flex" joint in a drive shaft.
