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CV Joints
Commonly used in all wheel drive and front wheel drive vehicles, constant-velocity (CV) joint refers to a universal joint that permits a rotating shaft to transmit power through a variable angle without increasing friction, at constant rotational speed.
889 Questions
How do you replace a CV joint in a 1991 Lincoln Continental?
This is most assuredly a question that cannot be easily answered on this forum. This task if extremely difficult, and unadvisable for anyone except a well trained mechanic in a repair shop environment. There are safety issues involved, as well as the need for lifting equipment and special tools. Take it to a Ford Service Shop. If you MUST do it yourself, invest in a shop repair manual specific to your vehicle, not the generic ones at parts houses.
THAT IS DEFINATELY A FORD/LINC EMPLOYEE...NO DOUBT...
FIRST, ON THE SIDE OF YOUR CAR AT THE VERY BOTTOM OF THE BODY (UMMM, CAR'S BODY) YOU WILL SEE A 1 INCH RIDGE THAT RUNS ALONG THE BOTTOM. THIS IS THE JACK SUPPORT POINT OF THE CAR.
PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON A LEVELED SURFACE AND THE PARKING BRAKES ARE APPLIED BY HERCULES HIMSELF, HINT HINT...
PLACE A FLOOR JACK THERE, LIFT THE CAR...
PLACE A JACKSTAND UNDER THE CAR CLOSE TO THE AREA THE FLOOR JACK IS IN (THIS IS A SAFETY PRECAUTION)...
HAVE SOMEONE PRESS AND HOLD THE BRAKES WHILE YOU REMOVE THE WHEEL...
IN THE CENTER OF THE HUB (THIS IS ALSO FROM YOUR VIEWPOINT, THE DISC AREA), YOU WILL SEE A VERY BIG NUT IN THE CENTER...
WITH A TORQUE RATCHET (NOT A TORQUE BAR) (APPROX. 40-60.00 USD), AND A 4 FOOT PIPE (USED AS A CHEATER BAR FOR THOSE OF US NOT BUILT LIKE ARNOLD),
REMOVE THE NUT..
NOW LOOK AROUND ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE DISC, AT THE BOTTOM YOU WILL SEE THE KNUCKLE (YOU MAY KNOW IT AS THE SPINLE) IS CONNECTED TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM...
PAY ATTENTENTION HERE...88-92 LINC USE A PINCH BOLT TO HOLD THE LOWER CONTROL ARM'S BALL JOINT TO THE KNUCLE, WHEREAS NEWER MAY HAVE A BALL JOINT W/A NUT AND COTTER PIN...
EITHER WAYTHIS MUST BE SEPERATED FROM THE KNUCLE...
IF USING PINCH BOLT, THEN WITH RATCHET OR WRENCH, REMOVE PINCH BOLT, IF NUT AND COTTER PIN, USE A PAIR OF DIAGONAL CUTTERS (DO NOT CUT) SIMPLY GET A GOOD GRIP AND TWIST OVER AND OVER UNTIL THE CTTER PIN IS OUT THEN REMOVE THE NUT...
WITH PINCH BOLT, USE A PRY BAR TO GENTLY POP THE BALL JOINT OUT OF SPINDLE...
WITH COTTER PIN TYPE, YOU NEED THE CORRECT SIZED PICKLE FORK, A.K.A., BALL JOINT SEPERATOR, AND A HEAVY MALLET (METAL HAMMER LIKE THE ONE THOR THE THUNDER GOD HAS), PLACE THE PICKLE FORK BETWEEN THE BALL JOINT AND KNUCKLE, REPEATEDLY HIT THE FORK INTO THE UNITS UNTIL POPPED OUT (PLEASE REMEMBER TO AIM AT THE FORK AND NOT YOUR KNUCLES, AFTER ALL, WE WANT TO SEPERATE THE CAR'S KNUCKLE, NOT YOURS)...
WHEN SEPERATED, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO PUSH THE LOWER CONTROL ARM DOWNWARD....
AFTER THIS IS DONE, YOU WILL USE A 2BY4 PIECE OF WOOD ABOUT 12 INCHES LONG TO HOLD THE STRUT-KNUCKLE -DISC ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE WAY MOVING IT BACKWARD OR FORWARD AS NEEDED.
ONCE ABOVE IS OUT OF THE WAY, YOU WILL NEED A LONG WRENCH, 15/16 IN. SHOULD DO NICELY, UNDER THE CAR (I HOPE YOU PLACED A JACK STAND AS ADVISED, CUS YOUR CAR WEIGHS ABOUT 4000 LBS, AND YES IT WILL HURT) LOCATE THE TRANSMISSION AND THE AXLE.
BETWEEN THE TRANS. AND THE AXLE YOU WILL FIT THE WRENCH, AND ONCE BETWEEN IT YOU WILL PRY GENTLY IN A OUTWARD DIRECTION.
A FEW TRIES MAY BE NEEDED BUT THE AXLE WILL POP OUT.
REMEMBER DO NOT OPERATE ANY PART OF THE CAR, I.E., DO NOT START, DO NOT SHIFT THE TRANS.
REASON IS IF YOU DO, YOU WILL BE TOWING YOUR CAR TO A TRANS SHOP TO REALIGNE THE SPLINE SHAFTS, YES, LOTS OF MONEY...
OK, NOW YOU CAN PULL OUT THE AXLE.
PEP BOYS HAS REBUILTS FOR 99.00 USD. THIS WOULD BE A GOOD CHOICE FOR YOU, CUS TRUST ME, YOU DONT WANT TO KNOW WHAT IT TAKES TO REBUILD IT YOURSELF...
IM NICE ENOUGH TO TELL YOU HOW TO REMOVE THE AXLE ON YOUR OWN, BE SMART AND BUY A REBUILT AXLE, THE AMOUNT YOU WILL SAVE PENDING A MISTAKE, IS 6000.00 USD ON A TRANSAXLE THAT MIGHT BE OBSLOLETE...
NOW, WITH REPLACEMENT AXLE IN HAND, GENTLE SLIDE IT IN TO HOLE IT CAME OUT OF (DO NOT TURN THE AXLE AT ANY TIME FOR ANY REASON)...
WHEN EXAMINED, THE SPACE BETWEEN THE AXLE AND THE TRANS WIL BE NO MORE THAN A 1/4 IN. DIFFERENCE.
AT THIS TIME, YOU WILL SLIDE IT OUT ABOUT 2-5 MM, AND THE AS HARD AS YOU CAN, PUSH THE AXLE INTO THE HOLE (YOU WILL FEEL THE AXLE "CLICK"INTO PLACE)...
ONCE YOU HAVE IT IN, THEN REASSEMBLE THE PARTS...
REMEMBER, NEW COTTER PINS/PINCH BOLTS AND NUTS, NEW AXLE NUT...
PLEASE REMBER THAT, FAILURE MEANS YOU WILL BE CALLING ME FOR A TOW HOME, HEHEHE...
IF DONE CORRECTLY, YOU ARE ARE NOW FINISHED....
BY THE WAY, IF FORD WOULD DO THEIR JOBS RIGHT IN THE FIRST PLACE, YOUR CAR WOULDNT BE IN THIS SITUATION...
How much does it cost to repair a 4x4 on a SUV?
Need to know what part needs repair. There are many parts to a 4x4 system.
How much does it cost to replace the CV joint for a mercury mountaineer?
It all depends on whether you want to do it yourself or pay a mechanic. The cv joints in my impala were 160 for both with me replacing them.
How do you replace the CV joints on a 1995 Ford Taurus?
The CV joints on a 1995 Ford Taurus can be replaced by removing the front tires, and the nuts on the lower ball joint. Next, the lower ball joint will need to be removed and the CV joint can be removed.
How can you tell which 1991 CV joint is bad?
If one is bad they are probably both bad. Replace them both. My 1990 CV joint on the Driver side was bad, it caused a loud "bumping" noise you could feel thru the floor and the stering wheel would jump and buck, in your hands, as well as drift off to the left. I'm agreeing with replacing them both, if one is bad the second is sure to follow. Check at a local auto parts store for refurbished ones, if you turn in your old ones they will give you some money back for them, turned out to be a great deal.
How do you replace cv joints on a 2003 Hyundai Sonata?
These are actually pretty easy to replace.. I changed both the other day, and it took about an hour to change both..
1st - jack the car up, and use a jack stand..
2nd - take the tire off
3rd - if you look behind the rotor, on the bottom, you'll see where your tie-rod is. there will be 2 bolts basically holding that bracket on.. remove both of them bolts.
4th - take the cotter pin out of the drive shaft end, and remove the 32mm bolt. an impact wrench does wonders.
5th - once the bolt is off, pull out on the whole rotor, and you'll be able to wiggle the drive shaft out. may have to smack it with a rubber hammer, or you hold the rotor, and let somebody else tap the end of the shaft, to get it out all the way.. isn't to hard at all.
6th - get a 4' bungee cord, and wrap it around the brake rotor, and basically hook it to the top of the hood, right in the corner where the fender and the hood meet. this keeps it out of the way, and give you plenty of room.
7th - crawl under your car with a 12 - 16" pry bar, and where the axle meets the transfer case, you have about a 1/4 inch gap. stick the pry bar in that gap, not to deep though, get it so its snug, and then give it a quick tap with a hammer, that will pop it out of the transfer case. there is a metal o-ring kinda clip that your trying to pop out. and a quick hit, pops it out pretty quickly.
8th - when you replace the axle, you'll need to greese the end going back into the transfer case, and put the end in as far as it will go. then you'll need to get it pushed in as far as it will go, and give it a smack or to so that metal o-rin / clip, pops back in..
9th - from there, just put it back together.. pretty simple.. once you get the first side done, the other side will be a piece of cake.. trust me lol
How do you know if struts are bad?
It will either be leaking which you can inspect visually (the oil inside the strut gives it the dampening ability. Or the car will tend to bounce a great deal, rather than once or twice whilst the vibration is cushioned. You can also push down on your car to test the struts effectiveness, it should wobble about 1-2 times and then stabilise. hope that helps.
no this is most likely your lines are leaking or your rack is leaking. Bron is right. No connection between the two systems. Now here are my questions: 1. Did the leak begin IMMEDIATELY after the mechanic worked on the vehicle? 2. Have you gotten under the car to see where the leak starts? Look for the highest "dry" point FORWARD from the fluid leak pattern, which will be the damaged area. (wind from driving pushes fluid toward passenger compartment, gravity pulls down) 3. Has anyone put BRAKE fluid into the power steering system? Old time mechanics tell you you can put power steering fluid into brakes, but not reverse. Personally, I wouldn't do that either. I just replaced the entire hose set and steering rack in my Celica convertible because some idiot did this. Brake fluid will eat through the rubber in power steering hoses. It will "weep" right through the pores in the rubber. RUINED! If you are lucky, it will just be a loose hose clamp. There would be no reason to loosen any of these to replace a CV joint. Be sure the mechanic replaced the transmission seal on the side the CV joint was pulled from. They are cheap and worth replacing EVERY TIME you pull a joint...rather than have them leak later. It is easy to damage them while jockying the heavy CV joint into place. Look on your repair order for the charge for the seal. Also, when the steering part is replaced, say the hose this time, ask to have the parts after a repair!!!! That way they can "prove" the repair. (doesn't mean they can't switch a part, but it helps. If it's a hose, look to see if it's a jagged rip or a neat slice...like a razor blade. If you keep having new injuries right after (a week or two) a repair, be suspicious. Maybe not crooked mechanic, maybe just bad mechanic. Toyota LOVES SST's (Special Service Tools) and you CAN get around them as a mechanic, but you have to be careful not to damage things by accident using other tools. (Even most dealers don't have all the SST's.) BTW, did you ever wonder how you can't get a part for a week, yet a dealer has your repair done in two days? Either they use an aftermarket (non-dealer) part or they get a USED PART from a salvage yard and after checking to see it's good, clean it up and swap it! The repair will likely last a year...past the warranty date. This is part of the insurance industry's scam on repairs. "Genuine Toyota Parts" will be used on repair, says in insurance documents....yeah. Pre-owned fenders, bumpers, etc. that cost the insurance company less, yet meets the letter of the agreement. Hope this helps you. Auntetr
How to replace an ATV cv joint?
- Jack your vehicle off the ground and secure it from rolling
- Remove the wheel
- Remove the axle nut (large nut on the outside of the hub)
- Remove the lower control arm bolt from the hub assembly
- The hub will be able to swing out away allowing the axle to be slipped out through the back. This may require a tap on the threaded end of the outer cv joint. Put the axle nut back on half way so that you can tap on it without damaging the threads.
- The inner u-joint will be the only thing holding it axle in place. That can be removed by knocking out the roll pin which holds it to the front differential. Now you should be able to pull it off the stub shaft.
- Once the axle is out of the vehicle. Hold the cv axle by the shaft close to the inner u-joint and hit the outer cv joint off of the shaft with a hammer (I use a 5 lb sledge. (wear glasses, grease may fly!) It usually comes off with one or two good blows with the hammer. However, If it doesn't come off put the axle in a vise and try again. If it still doesn't come off use your hammer to break the cage and remove the ball bearings. This will expose the race. You'll need to press the race off of the shaft. You can use a punch and hammer to punch the shaft back through the race. Other wise you'll need to use a press. Or cut it off with a cutoff saw. Cut the race in the direction of the splines on the shaft. That way it won't affect your new joint going onto the splines.
- Now that the joint is removed cut away the old boot and clamps and clean the shaft with parts cleaner or Brake clean.
- Put on the new boot and slide it toward the inner out of the way.
- Cut the corner of the grease packet to make it like a baker's bag. This will allow you to squirt the grease into the hole were the shaft will go. Fill the outer cv joint until the grease comes up around the balls and set the rest aside for later in this procedure.
- Now put a little grease on the "c" clip on the shaft to help hold it centered
- Take the outer cv joint and line up with the splines of the shaft and make sure that your clip is not sticking out to one side or the other.
- Now place the axle nut onto the threads half way to avoid damaging the threads and tap the joint back onto the shaft. If it doesn't go fairly easily then back off and use a screw driver the tap the clip in while putting pressure until it is no longer exposed then the joint will tap on with ease.
- Now squirt the remaining grease around the top of the joint (it may not require all of the grease packet just use about a 1" bead all the way around) were the shaft meets the joint and slide your boot down and clamp the large clamp first.
- Now use a screw driver to go in between the small end of the boot and shaft to release any trapped air or suction that may be deforming the boot. Then install the small clamp.
Now ready to install the axle. Just use your removal procedure in reverse.
Pinch type clamps:
These have notches cut in the band and are made to wrap around the boot and catch on a small hook. Wrap it as tight as you can by hand and then look for a square part of the band which will need to be crimped. We use tile snips or end cutters to crimp the band together tight. You may want to tap the crimped part of the band down and then crimp it again so that it doesn't stick up and get hit by anything.
A lot of noise from U joint on 87 bronco 2it is a CV U joint any help?
has front end been lubed lately? if it has, then u need to pull cv joint apart and replace worn parts. it is an easy job if you have a shop manuel as well sometimes it is not the cv joint but the locking hubs. that is easier job than a cv joint
What would cause a grinding noise when turning the steering wheel to the right in a ford transit?
most grinding noises that come from turning is usually a cv axle that needs to be replaced. Can also be a bad wheel bearing. If you hear the grinding when turning to the right then the left front wheel bearing is bad.
Can you change the cv joint on a Nissan micra without changing the whole driveshaft?
yes you can deppending on the model some need good old fashoned force with a hammer to knock of cv joint and some have a clip that require long nose plires you need to take of the civ joint from the hub and asses what one it is will need to give good clean first to see propperly
How do you replace the CV joints on a 1997 Mercury Villager?
It is not cost-effective to attempt to replace just the CV joints. Rebuilt CV shafts are available for as little as $60.
Sounds like the splines and or the "C" ring is damaged. Under normal circumstances the axle should snap into place firmly. Remove the axle and examine it. With a little luck only the axle is damaged and you can replace the axle with a rebuilt one.
How do you replace the cv joints 1989 Honda CRX?
You will need to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox (driver side) so you may need to drain the gearbox oil. Passenger side has an intermediate shaft and the drive shaft can be split without removing from the gearbox.
One the shaft is off remove the outer boot and nock the old CV joint off with a hammer and somthing to take the impact without damaging the joint (incase its re-useable). I used the rubber end of a screwdriver on the joint and hit the metal end of the driver with a hammer.
If the CV joint boot you have received is not the strechy type you will need to slide it onto the shaft prior to installing the new joint.
To install the new joint can be a chew. There is a circlip seated in a groove on the outer splines of the driveshaft. This clip is slightly larger than the groove it sits in must be "negotiated" into the groove while you slide the new cv joint over (Use a flathead screwdriver to prize the circlip in as you push the new CV joint onto the shaft.) Once you get this right the CV joint will slide down and the circlip will make an audiable click and pop out of the groove on the inside of the joint holding the join in place.
Pack the joint with the grease provided. Slide the boot over and fasten the boot in place with the metal straps and put your car back together.
Beware of new Circlips - my old one was mishapen so I used the new one provided and it was massive in comparison. It took me and a friend a good hour and a half just to get the new CV joint over the circlip - patience is a virtue :D
Incase you can get the shafts out....
Best way is to split the bottom ball joint and suspension wishbone. I'm not a massive fan of this as bottom ball joints have caused me too many issues. I split the tom ball joint and the tracking rod end to give enough movement to get the driveshafts out.
Also never pull on the driveshaft its self as this can pull apart the inner joint inside its boot which is a real faff on to get back together (trust me). Use a screwdriver or small crow bar to prize the shaft out at the gearbox end.
How do you remove the passenger side half shaft on a 1996 mercury villager?
If your C/V boots are torn, it is far preferable to replace the entire C/V shaft assembly, as it is both easier and cheaper. C/V boot repair kits don't work well, and actually replacing a C/V boot requires removing the shaft anyway. If the boot has split it is likely that dirt and moisture has entered the joint and caused wear already.
Because of the complexity of this kind of job, it is strongly suggested that you buy a repair manual that explains it in detail. You need to loosen the axle nut with the car on the ground, raise the car, remove the wheel, unbolt the lower ball joint, tie rod end stud, strut lower through bolts, remove the brake caliper, then you can tap the CV shaft stud back and pull the spindle assembly free of the CV shaft. The driver side CV shaft can then be popped out of the transmission. The passenger side CV shaft has a carrier bearing with three bolts holding the shaft to the bearing. Do not try to take the bracket off the engine, it is not necessary. Installation is the reverse of removal.
I am not sure what the question is but basically, most cars have have two to four cv joints, one or two on each side of the car. The outer cv joint is located near the tire or hub, the other, also known as "the inner, which also has a boot is located near or in the transmission........hope this helped
How do you replace the driver side cv joint on a 1990 Ford Tempo?
first you break the lug nuts lose. Then you need to remove the large nut that is in the center of the wheel. jack the car up and remove the tire. BLOCK YOUR CAR! At least the e brake. Then use jack stands to support it. Next there are a few options. some remove the caliper but it is not a must. You will need to remove the bolt holding the ball joint in place. Then you will need a "pickle fork"/ ball joint/ tie rod separator. Most parts stores have these for rent or loan. You will need to separate the ball joint from the rest of the hub/spindle.
Next you'll need to POP the end of the shaft that connects to the trans. To do this you can use a small pry bar. and use a fast jerk. you'll know when its lose. you don't need to take it all the way out yet. Just get it lose. Now go back to the front. You should be able to pull the hub/spindle back and too the right. you can now remove the half shaft.
To put the new one in you need to grease the snap ring. place it in the middle of the shaft end and slide it into the trasns. Make sure the spline teeth are aligned and then put your hub and spindle back together. after you have everything but the tire and the last large nut that goes in the middle of the tire back on. you'll need to seat the end that is in the trans. To do this I put the nut on as far as the end of the threads so you don't mess them up. then use a block of wood and a large hammer to snap it back in. if you don't snap it in it wont work!! after you have it in put your tire back on and lower your car to the ground. Your going to need a to tork the large bolt to ( I think I didn't look it up for this car but most are 100) 100. Your good to drive.
you may have lost some trans fluid but most likely not. If so make sure you check it and refill what is missing. to check it your car needs to be warmed up and running in park. Good luck
Is it safe to drive on a broken tie rod end?
No, if a tie rod is broken you would have no steering control.
How much would it cost to get one CV joint fixed on a 1995 Honda accord at a shop such as Firestone?
The average shop rate for work is about $80/hr. The entire halfshaft is replaced not just the joint. and those will run around 100 dollars. If I had to give you a ballpark without looking at a labor book for the vehicle I would say roughly 300-400 USD.
How do you remove the cv joint from the transmission of a 93 Toyota Camry?
Hi I just decided to replace the half shafts from a 93 Toyota Camry. I struggled for a day with the driver side half shaft and finaly got the dumb thing off by buying a very ridgid prybar from sears, jamming it under shaft near the trans and bashing with a big sledge hammer. Pow! and it was free!
The passenger side is still a challenge. I removed the snap ring and lock polt but it won't move. I thinking of using a tourch to free the bearing, but will ask a friend first.
AnswerHi again,I just called a friend re: the passenger side half drive shaft. I got a brass punch and positioned it against the inner CV joint next to the bearing in the bracket. He said to use a ballpeen hammer to drive the bearing out of the bracket by using the punch against the inner joint. (don't hit the bearing)After some pounding with the ballpeen, I decided to bring out the "big gun." A few hits with the sledge hammer got the bearing free from the bracket.I cleaned the bracket with a wire brush dremmel and the rest of the install was easy.
Why is a sliding joint used at the output shaft end of the propeller shaft?
Main reason is to allow for the dynamics of the drivetrain.
Secondary reason is to allow the shaft to collapse in a crash.
