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CV Joints
Commonly used in all wheel drive and front wheel drive vehicles, constant-velocity (CV) joint refers to a universal joint that permits a rotating shaft to transmit power through a variable angle without increasing friction, at constant rotational speed.
889 Questions
Is there trick to removing the CV shafts on a 1991 Ford Escort?
There is no tricks, and no special tools. Just remember to dis-connect the strut at the lower ball joint- that way you won't mess up the camber adjustment.
Sometimes the boots crack in a seam and hard to find. If there is grease there is a rip.
How do you replace a Honda accord c v joint?
Must remove the half shaft to get the CV boot off. Takes a bit of determination to loosen the parts and then even more to put the thing(s) back in. Protect the new bearings (might as well replace them too) from dirt and be careful not to lose anything.
Shoulder joint replacement cost?
Shoulder joint replacement cost varies from one hospital to another. On average, this will cost about $10,000 depending on other cost implications.
Could be the rear bearings, brake shoes, brake pads and of course, the suspension. It might help to jack the vehicle up and spin each wheel by hand.
How much would it be to fix a cb joint?
If you mean a CV joint (constant velocity joint on front-wheel drive car drive train), then go ask a car repair shop. It depends on the make and model and whether the joint is frozen, ie hard to undo, plus the cost of the new part and rubber boots, etc. At least $300, probably more like $600. If you mean something else, then you should make it plain when you ask the question and also make the context clear, ie cars, radios, etc. Otherwise not many people are going to know what you mean and probably fewer would bother answering your (lazy) question. If in fact you are asking about a CB radio clubhouse that you wanted to break up because they were causing interference, well, that's a totally different question.........
Why is it necessary to phase hooke type universal joints fitted to prop shaft?
Correctly phasing the u joints will prevent driveling vibration
Doing it incorrectly can cause a damaging vibration that can ruin, transmission, transfer case, differential etc.
Cost to replace cv joint on a 2000 ford focus?
Ford F?cus? - Yes, I have one of those, too. If the boots have failed, the joints won't be far behind. Don't bother replacing joints - replace the entire drive axle. Left side (driver) cost me $50. Right side has an intermediate shaft; it was $60. Both had a $50 core charge. When removing the outer joints DON'T HAMMER the joint out of the hub or you will not get your core charge back - a $50 mistake. The hardest part will be prying the inner joints from the transmission. Either drain the fluid from the transmission first or be prepared to catch it when the inner joint comes out. Oh, if you're not into doing it yourself, be prepared to put out ~$400 to pay somebody to do it for you. Considering the trouble I've had with Ford engineering - I should have given it more thought.
How do you replace the C-V shaft in a 1997 Ford Escort?
I too am replacing the cv shafts in a 97 ford escort... the right side came out easily with a pry bar and hammer but for the life of me I cant get the left side out... I have used wedges and pry bars and even my slide hammer... is it possible that you are having trouble with the same side
How do i tell if my u-joints need replacing on my 2007 dodge 2500 diesel?
Generally, I just lift one wheel enough to clear the ground then I put the vehicle in neutral and have someone turn the wheel while I watch and listen to the U Joint. If I hear ANY squeaking or grinding I replace the U Joint. Next I put it back in park then have someone move the wheel again. Now it will hit against the parking gear so the helper moves the wheel back and forth while you "touch" the area between the driveshaft and the yolk. If there is ANY play, I replace the U Joint.
Some of the longer driveshafts have been divided into two parts and have a center "carrier bearing". Often the carrier bearing will make noise, hum, grind, squeek... If that's the case, replace it.
How do I replace cv joints on a 1991 Honda Accord?
Try calling your local auto parts dealer and see if they have a rebuild kit. Generly though you have to replace the entire shaft. If that's the case just make sure you get the right one with the corect spline leangth on the transmission side. If you get the new one its just a matter of removing the tire, then the calipur, then the pitman arm for the stearing, then remove the pin that holds the wheel nut on and take that off as well, then losten the top ball joint nut and remove the lower one. Using a pickle for pop the lower ball joint out being carefull not to pop the grease boot if its a self lubeing bearing. Then just swing the disc and all out of the way. You will also want to make sure that you remove the brake line bracket and don't let the calipur fall or you will have a huge mess and job ahead of you witht the brakes. Knock the old shat out using a hammer and flat non sharpend chisle or punch. Once the old one is out put the new one in carefully lining up the splines and then push or knock it all the way into place by hand or with a rubber mallet. Then just put it all back the way you took it a part and take it for a short road test. Best thing to do as well is get the book for your vehicle.
How much should it cost to replace CV joints in a 1973 VW bus?
This is a very easy job that will get you unbelievably filthy. The CVs with boots, new bolts and grease are $85 each--so, if you need all four, that's $340. Tools you will need: CV bolt socket. This is a special star driver that fits your 3/8" ratchet. MAC tools makes it, and it costs about $8. This tool MUST be used--an Allen wrench will get you killed.
Snapring pliers
Regular pliers
Torque wrench
Rubber gloves
Three-pound sledgehammer, and maybe a foot of rebar
You do this the same way on any air-cooled VW with independent rear suspension, but you don't have to jack a Bus up. Bugs are a different story. Put on your parking brake, chock your wheels and get under the car. Remove all six of the bolts on each CV. You'll see little arc-shaped pieces of metal under the bolt heads, or at least should. If they're there, save them. Now it's time to remove the old CVs. Put on your rubber gloves. If you've got a vise that hangs over the edge of a workbench, or some other way to suspend the axle vertically by one of the CVs, use it. Remove the snapring, stick the foot of rebar (or an 8-inch extension for your ratchet if you have one of those) on the end of the axle and give it a good sound whack. The axle will probably fall out on the first whack. If it needs more whacks, give it some. It's not like you can damage this thing. Once the first end has come out, turn it over and do the other end. Take off the ruined CV boots and throw them away. Clean the axle well, and paint it if you like. Take a CV joint out of its package. Pack it with one tube of CV grease. Look at the rim--there is a groove machined into it that the CV boot fits into. That goes up. Lightly lubricate the splines on the axle, align them with the splines on the CV, and gently! tap the axle home. Slide both boots onto the axle, making sure you got the clamps in between them and the bolt-ends of the boots are pointing toward the ends of the axle. (IOW, it should look like what you took out when you put it back in.) Pack the second CV. Hold the CV that's on so the outer race can't flop around, turn the axle over and install the other CV. Now lay the assembly on its side and install the circlips. Crawl under the car and reinstall the axle. The bolts get 50 lb-ft and are tightened in a criss-cross pattern. Finally, crimp the boot clamps over the ends of the boots. Now...if you have a second car, what I would do before I ordered new CV joints is to remove the CV from the axle, take it apart and inspect everything in the CV joint. If the joint doesn't have any signs of wear, clean it good, repack it and reinstall it with a new boot. Quite often the only thing wrong with a VW CV joint is it's filthy, and cleaning it out will solve its problems.
How do you change CV joints on a 1997 Toyota carolla?
don't bother get replacement axles, both for my 94 cost me 80 total with no core charge (the genuine Toyota ones were like 600 total I got cheap ones at napa), where as the cv boots would have cost, for all four that is, like 60. You gotta take the axles out one way or another- and that's a wrestleing match no matter what. Don't get a haynes manual and think your gonna do it all on your own. they damn near weild those suspension bolts on at the factory. It took me and a friend- about 450lbs total - one pushing and one bounceing on six feet of pipe on the end of a breaker bar to release the the two steering knuckle to ball joint bolts. I don't know how yours are but we cheated with the axles and just hammered them out the steering knuckles. everyone says to use a puller/pusher tool to get them out- but we decided since everywhere that had one was closed to just knock em out. I got like 40000 miles out of mine so far. There wasn't a lot of clearance, but once they are down from the knuckles you gotta pry them out of the transaxle, again me underneath prying and my buddy on top with a 6 foot crow not pry bar to get them to pop out, the drivers side sucked but the pass was easy, beware 2500 bucks if you screw up your trans- some cars you gotta stick a dowl in there to prevent the differential gears from falling or some such nonsense, on mine no special order popped them out smacked them back in with a mallet, line them up in the knuckle and use the big nut whatever its called to force them back in the knuckle and wala you just saved yourself enough money to buy a new boat. good luck, and remember its not as easy as an alternator but not nearly as hard as a trans.
How do you replace the CV joint of your Toyota camery?
Step by step process is as follows:
1) Loosen the CV joint nut prior to jack the car up if you can.
2)Jack up the car, put jack stands underneath when you reach your desired height, jack stands are the safest way to keep your car up.
3)Remove the wheel
4)Remove the Tie Rod from the strut assembly
5) Remove the lower control arm from the strut assembly
6)Remove that CV joint nut
Now the strut assembly might get in the way from pulling the CV joint axle from the Transmission you can try to find something to hook it to while with a bungee cord or something. The CV joint should slide right out from the "middle of the rotor"
7a)If you have a CV puller that fits your CAMRY you are going to want to slide the puller around the axle as close to the Transmission pan as you can.
7b)If you do not have a puller you can try to pry it off with a pry bar this will take some perseverance.
8) Once you get the axle loosened from the transmission you are going to want to slip a drip pan underneath where the axle goes into the transmission, Transmission fluid will flow from the hole.
9) You can now pull the old CV Joint out of the transmission all the way.
10)Work the new CV joint axle into the transmission (BE CAREFUL NOT TO HURT THE BOOTS)
11)You may want to knock it in with a hammer gently until it is in all the way (I recommend a rubber mallet)
12)Work the CV joint back into the "middle of the rotor"
13)Hand tighten the CV joint nut onto the cv joint
14)Connect the lower control arm back to the strut assembly.
15)Reconnect the tie rod
16)Replace the tire
17)Use a torques wrench to tighten the cv joint nut to 180lbs
18) Take the car off the jackstands
19)Replace the transmission fluid lost with new transmission fluid
20)Drive Safely!
A universal joint, U joint, Cardan joint, Hardy-Spicer joint, or Hooke's joint is a joint in a rigid rod that allows the rod to 'bend' in any direction, and is commonly used in shafts that transmit rotary motion.
Where can you buy a CV Joint for a Honda Civic 1998?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1998-Honda-Civic-EX/CV-Axle/_/N-jaf2pZ6o2dc?sortType=low
How do you change a lower control arm bushing?
First you jack up the side of the car you want to replace the control arm bushings and support it with jack stands. Remove the wheel. Remove the stabilizer bar to control arm nut and bolt. Remove the balljoint clamp bolt and nut from the steering knuckle. Remove the bolt and washer front the control arm front pivot. Unbolt the control arm rear bushing retaining strap. Remove the control arm from the car. Once the control arm is off the car you can replace the bushings in it.
Why does the car make a grinding noise when it has weight in it?
It Will probably be the amont of weight that that causes the wheels to rub against the wheel arch
Are atv's driveable with a damaged cv joint?
yes and no......There will be some shaking and wheel jerking but you should be able to make it home without causing any further damage
It is the CV joint within the axle. I would replace it with the entire axle assembly.To save money I would buy a good used axle then bring it to a local garage.
How do you replace the cv joints on a 1991 prizm?
I had a 1990, and it was a 5 speed maual. It was sort of simple. first remove tire, then cotter pin in front of large 30mm or so nut. Then remove this nut from end of shaft. Use a large metal bar in between 2 lug nut bolts that is long enough to reach the ground. "lock" the bar in between lug bolts and on the ground then attach ratchet to the bolt and loosen. The bar will stop the shaft from spinning and allow for removal. You then must remove the 3 large bolts from lower control arm to free up strut and make room for the old shaft to pop out. Control arm may need a little banging to loosen up, they also make a tool called a pickle fork to separate it. When that is all freed up use a prybar in between transmission and shaft, there is just enough room to slide the bar in. Give it a good solid "pop" and pry motion to push it outward from transmission. you should hear it pop out. When puttimg new one back in, be sure to line up the little "splines" on the new shaft! DO NOT mash up those little gear threads. When it is lined up nicely, try to give a steady even push back in. You should hear a pop when it is locked in. Then go through the steps backward and throw her back together. Good luck!!!!
How do you replace axel 94 Honda accord passenger side.?
THE FIRST STEP IN DOING THIS JOB IS TO CLEAN THE AREA THAT YOU WILL BE WORKING ON. THE KNUCKLE WILL HAVE LOTS OF BLACK GREASE ON IT. ONCE THE BOOT HAS BROKEN, THE GREASE COMES OUT OF THE BOOT AND IS THROWN ALL OVER THE BACK SIDE OF THE ROTOR. USE A PRESSURE WASHER TO CLEAN THIS AREA. YOUR JOB WILL BE MUCH EASIER THAN IF YOU DON'T CLEAN IT. I DIDN'T CLEAN IT AND THE GREASE WAS ALL OVER EVERYTING.
YOU WILL HAVE TO LOOSEN THE SPINDLE NUT BEFORE YOU CAN DO ANYTHING. MAKE SURE THE CAR IS SUPPORTED WELL. I USED A FLOOR JACK TO LIFT THE CAR SLIGHTLY. TAKE THE DIMPLE OUT OF THE 36MM NUT FIRST. USE A NAIL SET OR A THIN METAL PUNCH TO GET UNDER THE DIMPLE ON THE 36MM NUT. USING EITHER AN AIR WRENCH OR A 1/2" RATCHET WRENCH WITH A CHEATER BAR, LOOSEN THE 36MM SPINDLE NUT. YOU CAN GET THE 36MM SOCKET FROM AUTO ZONE AS A LOANER TOOL. PAY A DEPOSIT & TAKE IT BACK.
BLOCK THE BACK TIRES WITH FOUR 4"X 4" WOODEN BLOCKS TO KEEP THE CAR FROM SHIFTING. EMERGENCY BRAKES ON. I USED FOUR JACK STANDS. SAFETY FIRST. IF YOU ARE WORKING ON GROUND, PLACE 12" X 12", SMALL WOODEN 3/4" BOARDS UNDER THE JACK STANDS. MAKE SURE THE JACK STANDS ARE CONNECTED TO A STRONG AREA UNDER THE CAR.
YOU WILL NEED A PENCIL FLAME TORCH TO SEPARATE THE BALL JOINTS. A HEAVY HAMMER. A GOOD WORK LIGHT. A LARGE FLAT & PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER. 2"X4" WOODEN BLOCKS. FLOOR JACK, STEEL PUNCH, WHEEL BEARING GREASE, JACK STANDS (MINIMUM)
AFTER THE 36MM NUT IS LOOSE, BRING THE CAR UP TO THE LEVEL YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH. STABILIZE THE CAR, WAIT A FEW MINUTE AND CHECK THE POSITION OF THE JACK STANDS.
TO FINISH TAKING THE 36MM SPINDLE NUT OFF, YOU WILL NEED TO PUT A SCREWDRIVER INTO THE VENT HOLE OF THE BRAKE ROTOR .
TAKE THE DAMPER FORK OFF NEXT. THERE ARE TWO BOLTS.
THE LOWER ARM BALL JOINT IS NEXT. THIS IS WHERE YOU WILL NEED TO USE THE PENCIL FLAME TORCH. TO SEPARATE THE BALL JOINT AND THE LOWER ARM, YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE THE COTTOR PIN OUT. THEN THE CASTLE NUT. NOW IS THE TIME TO SPRAY SOME PENETRATING OIL INTO THE JOINT. WHEN YOU HEAT THE METAL UP BE SURE YOU ARE NOT TOUCHING THE RUBBER BALL JOINT BOOT. HEAT THE THREADS OF THE BOLT AND THE AREA AROUND THE BOLT FOR 1 TO 2 MINUTES. DO NOT HEAT THE METAL TO THE POINT THAT IT GETS RED HOT. IMMEDIATELY HIT ON THE LOWER ARM NEXT TO THE BALL JOINT. BE PERSISTENT AND THE LOWER ARM WILL SEPARATE FROM THE BALL JOINT. I HAD TO HEAT THE LOWER AREA OF THE BALL JOINT MORE THAN ONCE. AND HITTING ON THE ARM FOR QUITE A FEW TIMES BEFORE IT SEPARATED. DON'T GIVE UP ON THE HEAT METHOD. THE BALL JOINT SEPARATORS THAT YOU HEAR ABOUT USING WILL DAMAGE YOUR BALL JOINT BOOT IF YOU ARE NOT REALLY CAREFUL. MOST OF THE MECHANICS I KNOW USE THE HEAT METHOD BECAUSE OF THE FEAR OF DAMAGING THE BOOT.
USE THIS METHOD TO SEPARATE THE TIE ROD FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE. REMEMBER TO HEAT THE BOLT THREADS AND THE AREA NEXT TO THE BOLT THREADS.
ALWAYS TURN THE STEERING WHEEL TO YOUR ADVANTAGE TO GET TO THE AREA YOU ARE WORKING ON. YOU ARE NOW READY TO TAKE THE AXLE OUT OF THE KNUCKLE. YOU WILL NEED TO PUT THE 36MM NUT BACK ONTO THE SPINDLE HALF WAY. USING A SMALL BLOCK OF WOOD, PLACE IT AGAINST THE 36MM NUT AND HIT IT WITH A HAMMER. IF YOU HAVE A RUBBER HEAD HAMMER, THIS WILL DO ALSO. DO NOT USE METAL TO METAL, YOU MAY DAMAGE THE THREADS ON THE AXLE.
ONCE YOU HAVE RELEASED THE AXLE FROM THE KNUCKLE, IT CAN BE KNOCKED OUT WITH A LARGE PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER. THERE IS A CENTER PUNCH AREA ON THE END OF THE AXLE TO FIT THE PHILLIP SCREWDRIVER.
NOW THAT YOU HAVE THE OUT BOUND SIDE OF THE AXLE OUT YOU CAN PROCEED TO PRY THE INBOUND SIDE AWAY FROM THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. USE A LARGE FLAT SCREWDRIVER TO PRY THE AXLE FROM THE SHAFT. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE OIL SEAL. IF WHEN YOU STARTED THIS PROCEDURE, YOU SAW OIL LEAKAGE. YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE SEAL.
GREASE ALL OF THE AREAS ON THE NEW AXLE THAT WILL GO INTO THE KNUCKLE AND THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. ALSO THE SPLINES IN THE KNUCKLE AND THE AREA WHERE THE AXLE GOES INTO THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. I USED WHEEL BEARING GREASE. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT WHEN YOU ARE PUTTING THE OUTBOUND SIDE OF THE AXLE BACK INTO THE KNUCKLE. THIS IS WHERE THE MEN ARE SEPARATED FROM THE BOYS. SOME PEOPLE TAKE THE BRAKES OFF BECAUSE THE BRAKES ADD TOO MUCH WEIGHT TO HANDLE TRYING TO PUSH THE AXLE BACK INTO THE KNUCKLE. THIS WAS THE TOUGHEST PART FOR ME.
AFTER YOU HAVE PUT THE AXLE INTO THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT, CHECK FOR A SNUG FIT. BE SURE THE SNAP RING IS ON THE END OF THE SHAFT BEFORE YOU PUSH IT INTO THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. MAKE SURE IT IS SNUG. USING THE FLAT SCREWDRIVER, GENTLY PRY BETWEEN THE TWO. SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO LINE UP THE NEW DRIVE SHAFT AND USE A WOOD BLOCK TO KNOCK THE DRIVE SHAFT INTO THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. MAKE SURE THE AXEL IS ALIGNED STRAIGHT BEFORE YOU HIT ON THE OUTBOUND SIDE WITH THE WOOD BLOCK AND HAMMER.
YOU CAN NOW PUSH THE OUTBOUND SIDE OF THE AXEL INTO THE KNUCKLE. THIS CAN BE TIRING. IF YOU WORK OUT, THIS IS AN EASY JOB. IT WAS A LITTLE TIRING FOR ME. I ALSO FORGOT TO PRESSURE WASH THE KNUCKLE. I WAS GETTING COVERED IN GREASE FROM 14 YEARS OF NEGLECT. CLEAN THE WORKING AREA ON THE CAR BEFORE YOU START THIS JOB.
EVEN IF YOU ARE NOT THE PERSON TO DO THIS JOB, ITS ALWAYS BETTER TO CLEAN THE AREA THAT THE MECHANIC WILL BE WORKING ON.
YOU HAVE NOW COME TO THE OUTBOUND SIDE OF THE DRIVE SHAFT INTO THE KNUCKLE SOMEWHAT. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO JUST PUSH THE OUTBOUND SIDE STRAIGHT THRU THE KNUCKLE. ITS TOUGH. ONCE YOU CAN SEE SOME SCREW THREADS ON THE OUTSIDE, YOU CAN PLACE THE SPINDLE NUT ONTO THREADS. USE A RATCHET WRENCH ON THIS JOB. YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO HURT THE SCREW THREADS. USE COMMON SENSE WHEN FINISHING THIS JOB. THE SHAFT FITS VERY TIGHT AND YOU NEED TO USE HAND STRENGTH TO GET THE SHAFT INTO THE KNUCKLE. BE PATIENT AND PERSISTENT AND IT WILL WORK. AFTER YOU GET THE SPINDLE NUT ONTO THE SHAFT, YOU ARE HOME FREE. GO SLOW AND BE CAREFUL. ONCE YOU START TURNING THE NUT, YOU WILL SEE THE SHAFT PULLING INTO PLACE. ONCE IT IS IN ALL THE WAY, CHECK THE SPECS FOR THE AMOUNT OF PRESSURE YOU NEED TO PUT ON YOUR TORCH WRENCH. AFTER YOU HAVE TORCHED IT TO SPECS, PUT THE DIMPLE INTO THE OUTER EDGE OF THE NUT. YOU ARE FINISHED. ALWAYS TOP UP THE OIL YOU LOST WHEN YOU PULLED THE SHAFT OUT OF THE TRANSMISSION. DO NOT CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION FLUID, JUST TOP IT UP.
