CV Joints

first remove the front tire, then of course car must be lifted up or use the 2 alligator to lift up the front car. remove the cvj nut. note: there is cutter pin on it, shld be first remove it. drain the transmission oil. it will flow out if not drained thouroughly.
then, pull out the outboard (wheel side) side by pulling out it. (when pulling it, make sure that the wheel hub assy(the one with the brakes, etc..)must be bent sideways to give more space in pulling it..

replacing cv joint renault megane 2

Throw it away. Stop buying stuff from South Korea and putting Americans out of jobs.

On Wednesday afternoon while I was driving home from work, the passenger side front wheel bearing started to make loud noises on my 2001 maxima (135,000 miles). Thursday I drove about 10 miles on it to and from lunch. Friday I drove 40 miles (to and from the airport). Saturday 12 miles (this was a holiday... most auto repair shops and car rental places were closed), Sunday 6 miles and Monday morning another 5 miles to the auto repair shop.

how do you replace the drivers side drive shaft and cv joint?

You will need to remove the axle nut and a pickle fork to separate the ball joints. I think you have to unbolt the strut and swing the assy out of the way. Then you can unbold the axle and replace it. There are probably some minor details I've forgotten as its been a while.

Boy, did you find the right guy! I own a 92 and a 94 and I've done three of these little devils in the last two months! Hopefully you are accomplished enough to jack the car, remove tire, remove the hub nut, and remove the entire strut assembly. Push the end of the shaft out (back in the hub) of the hub and move the assembly out of the way. The bottom of the strut assembly can be a thrill to remove but remove it and remove the tie rod end and you should be ready to proceed. On the bottom of the bearing is a small bolt that holds the bearing in place and that must be removed. Inside the bearing is a retaining ring that needs to be removed with long pointed nose pliers and pryed out. Get a repair manual and it will show what I am saying. Now the fun begins. The passenger side strut has a bearing on it that rides in a steel assembly and that bearing can be difficult to remove. The entire shaft has to come out of the tranny and that is not usually a problem but the bearing can be. The repair manual say that the shaft should just "pop" out of the tranny but that is not going to happen. Try taking two pry bars and prying on the shaft between the bearing housing and the metal housing on the backside of the rubber boot. You should see what I'm talking about once you get in there. It has to pop out of the transmission by prying really hard and sometimes it will come out. If it doesn't then find a small mini sledge hammer and you will have to beat the old shaft out and it may take a while. On one I did, it popped right out after only a few hits, but on the other one, well you don't want to hear what I had to do! Just keep beating it until it starts to move out of the bearing housing. Once you get the old one out, the worst is over. Take steel wool and clean the bearing housing really good and coat with anti-seize. Put the new one in and put a wood block on the end of the shaft and GENTLY tap the shaft until it goes in the tranny. Look at the bearing and there you should be able to see it going in and when it finally seats it will kind of "pop" in. Do everything in reverse and put it back together. The drivers side shaft is easier because there is no bearing to deal with. It simply has to be pryed out of the tranny with a couple of pry bars. It took a while but was a breeze after doing the passenger side. Good luck.

Well, if it's the same as my TS magna, then here's how you do it: The CV joint cannot be taken off the drive shaft as it is all one unit. Very annoying, as a lot of cars have a circlip holding the CV joint onto the driveshaft, but these don't. To change the outer boot. You need to remove the driveshaft from the car. Loosen wheel nuts, and drive shaft nut (after removing split pin). Jack up car, support on axle-stands and remove wheel. Undo and remove steering rack balljoint from steering knuckle. Undo and remove lower control arm balljoint from suspension strut. you might need to apply a fair bit of downforce on the lower control arm to push it down far enough to clear the suspension strut. I find pushing it down with you foot while holding onto the wheel arch a pretty good method but do not tip car off jack. You should now be able to pull strut out far enough to slip the driveshaft splines out the back of the hub. Crawl under the wheel arch and find the inner driveshaft boot - this contains the inner joint - called a tripod joint. If you remove the clip/tie round the large end of the boot, you should be able to pull the driveshaft and inner boot together out - the joint sits in a little cup - you'll see what I mean when you pull the driveshaft out. From memory, you'll need to take the clip/tie off the small end of the inner boot and pull boot back to gain access to the tripod joint. Clean all the grease off the tripod joint, and you should see a circlip holding it onto the shaft. Remove this with a pair of long-nosed pliers and a flat screwdriver (fiddly) Take the tripod joint off the shaft and you can now slide the old outer CV boot off and slide a new one on. Clean and regrease both joints, and fit new boots. Assembly is the reverse of above remembering to re-torque all bolts to correct torque settings, and refit new split pin on drive shaft nut - think they're 5/32" from memory. If in any doubt of your mechanical skills, consult a qualified mechanic. If the TF magna is not the same as the TS, then ignore all the above. Hope this helps.

Yes, there are 2 of them. Nearside (LHS) on short driveshaft, Offside (RHS) on long driveshaft.

Typically not available from motor factors as a separate item, may have to buy a complete drive shaft to repair.

Symptoms of faulty inner CV joint:

Vibration when driving above a certain speed, which offens goes away when under load, and gets worse when the accelerator is lifted.

It could along with the tire and rim.

Yes

A Constant Velocity Joints or CV joints are attached to each end of a drive shaft The CV joints are needed to transfer the torque at a constant speed to steered wheels as well as to accommodate up and down motions of the suspension

A clicking sound either when you are driving or when you make a turn. The Clicking sound will come from the outside wheel during turns, such as if you turn left the right cv will generally make the noise.

Follow this Related Link below.

No its not. It is diffcult even with proper tools.

Too late. You should have removed them before the repo. You can tell the rentor where thay are and let him try to get them back. I never heard of renting wheels

The "bounce test" always works for me. Push repeatedly on the front of the vehicle until you can get it moving up and down several inches, then quit pushing and watch. The vehicle should only continue moving for just one "cycle" (up then down or down then up) If it moves much more than that, the struts are bad. Also, visually check the struts. If they are damaged, leaking oil pr the bushings are coming apart, that's good sign that they need to be replaced.

where should i put my name on the envelope of my CV?

They will do that when there are worn out. Time for replacement.

A cv joint (also known as a constant-velocity joint) allows drive shafts to transmit power at varying angles. They do this without too much increase in friction.

CV Skjøt

Depends on your year. I have a 2000 dodge dakota 4.7 slt 4x4. On mine all i had to do was remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. Then i removed the axle bolt at the center of the hub. Gave the axle a tap wth a hammer to loosen, and used my crowbar to un-snug the cv half shaft from the transmition by prying it out.

I saw a guy on YouTube with a Durango that had his cv half shaft bolted right onto the transmission case, just depends on your model. Unbolting is easier than prying the B**** off though.

The CV - constant velocity - joints are parts of the axle assembly.

Although the CV joints can be rebuilt, I think most people (me included), just purchased new replacement axles when one goes bad.

See "Related Questions" below for more about replacing front-wheel drive half-axles.

A 2001 Jeep wrangler (TJ or Limited model) does not have a CV (Central Velocity) joint. Both front and rear axle assemblies are "straight" axles; the rear has no axle joint and the front uses a standard universal (u-joint) with caps and needles (both Dana 30 and Dana 44)

To replace the front driveshaft u-joint: you would need to remove the wheel and hub assembly and slide out the driveshaft through the knuckle. The u-joint is retained by press fitted caps and/or C clips and can be changed with the aid of a vise, hammer, punch or press.

I visual inspection can be done to see any play in the front shaft prior to removal-the typically are very easy to diagnose-no movement within the joint is permissible (wiggle with small crow bar or large screwdriver) with wheel turned exposing the u-joint within the knuckle assembly...there may be some end to end play within the shaft movement (and up and down) but no play should be found within the joint itself.

the only thing to tighten is the spindle nut and i think that was 125 ft/lbs.