Dodge Avenger

It does not have a distributor.

diagnostic code 72 means the catalitic converter efficiency is below the required level.

1-2-3-4-5-6

I have a 98 Avenger and right after i bought is when my alarm went off ... (Ididn't even know there was an alarm....) I finally disarmed it by putting the key in the drivers door lock and unlocking it. Good Luck!

You will need the following tools, 14mm socket and ratchet and or a 14 mm wrench and brass hammer or cheater bar, and a slide hammer axle puller, a midium size c-clamp or caliper compression tool and a torque wrench and finally the torque specification for the fastners on the rear axles,these include the hub to steering knuckle, brake caliper to mounting plate and the wheel lug nut specifications. Well first off on my Avenger the bearing is part of the hub and mounting bracket assembly and can not be purchased except as that assembly for safety reasons the bearing is swaged and then the edges of the bracket are rolled into the bracket assembly and then the bearing preload is set for the hub by an adjustment nut on the rear of the hub( DO NOT ADJUST THIS NUT ), to change the hub assembly was pretty striaght forward, First place the rear of the car on jack stands in a level place and check to see that the car is secure. Next remove the wheel Next remove the brake caliper it is held in place by two 14mm bolts inserted from the rear side. Next compress the claiper either with the c-clamp or the compression tool, set the caliper out of the way and secure it so that it does not hang by the brake hose, if not you might get lucky and nothing happen if you not lucky you will end up replacing the hose also. Next remove and set aside the two brake pads. Next remove and set aside the brake rotor, this should expose the emergency brake , it is not required to remove any of this unit Next remove the four 14 mm bolts from the rear of the suspension knuckle that thread into the back of the hub. the hub and braket assembly is in tight but not pressed in, stall the axle puller and using the slide hammer pull the hub outward. depending on rust the brake backing plate may come off with the hub assembly if it does turn it over and hit the center of the hub a few time with the brass hammer and it will pop out, note if you use a steel hammer and pun over the edge of the hub, you will have a lot of problems getting it off the backing plate. to install reverse the above, insure that you have a torque wrench and tighten all fastners back to factory specifications.

Jack up the car, install jack stands. remove the wheel / tire assembly. Remove the brake caliper from the spindle assembly (probably held on with two bolts). Tie the caliper to the fenderwell with safety wire or a coat hanger, DON'T LET IT HANG BY THE HOSE. Then the rotor should pull right off. If you're going this far, check your brake pads for wear, and perhaps install new pads. Get your rotors turned too. You'll have to compress the piston in the caliper before you can install the new pads. You'll need a C-clamp to compress the piston, and a plastic syringe to remove SOME brake fluid from the reservoir because you're pushing fluid back into the reservoir. Otherwise it will leak all over. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten all hardware to OEM specifications, check for leaks, and you're on your way. Your brakes may feel different for awhile, give it 500 miles for the pads to wear in to the newly finished discs. Just make sure your brake pedal doesn't feel spongy and has firm pressure without going to the floor.

its prolly the egr valve that's why mine did it expect to pay around $320 for it that's how much it cost me including labor

Also check the distributor cap for very small cracks, use bright flashlight. After I replaced my EGR valve I still had the problem until I found some hairline cracks in the cap.

Also, Check the IAC operation. (I had the same problem with the hesitation during acceleration. It was really bad with the A/C on... I took the intake off and sprayed some Card Cleaner into the IAC and cleaned off the throttle plate with a wire brush worked fine until it clogs up again..)

Thanks. I had thought about the EGR but it turned out to be hairline cracks in the distributor cap. Simple replacement of the cap and the car runs great.

sounds like your torque converter is going out. If you need to build up revs to get the torque converter to pump enough fluid to pressurize the gears, your converter may be going out. Once you gets enough pressure, that is when you get the "kick" in gears.

Yes, If the timing is not right on. The pistons will bend your valves.

if you have the box with the digital miles try turning to key from off to on 3 times and on the 3rd turn keep it on and it should show. if not, refer to the vehicle manual. it should tell you in there.

There isn't an oil pump relay. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft.

Trouble code P1782 means: Pressure switch circuit: 2-4

hulk

Driving in 3rd gear instead of fourth will not affect your transmission as much as your engine. In fact, if you are driving in a manner that causes a lot of shifting between 3rd and 4th, it may be easier on the transmission to leave it in 3rd. If your transmission needs fixed, I don't think it would be from leaving it in 3rd gear. As far as cost, it will vary greatly depending on what needs done and what type of car you have.

check the spark plugs. may not be catching fire.

Anything is possible for enough money. Dodge never made a turbo or awd version so this would be very expensive.

about a man react when he finds that his wife is unfaithful to him

Take off your distributor cap and use a blow dryer to dry out the cap and components. Its possible you have a hair line fracture in the cap.

six..

1-3-5 rear bank passenger side to driver side

2-4-6 front bank passenger side to driver side

I just changed the wires and plugs on mine yesterday. Of course, you need to remove the plenum to get to the rear bank.

ccriscuolo

Do you mean how to reset the alarm system if it goes off? If so I had to disconnect my battery cable so it could reset itself. The dealer told me to use the key on the passenger side door and unlock it. This should stop the alarm. But mine didn't work. Good Luck.

I've found with mine that if I hit the auto-lock while both the driver's and passenger's doors are open, it is more likely to arm the alarm. The only way I'm able to get it turned off other than disconnecting the battery (because my keychain remote is dead) is to open the trunk using the key. lol I have no idea why this works, but it always does.

I own a 1995 Dodge Avenger. And, when my alarm goes off, I insert my key in the drivers side door and lock and unlock the door. This is the only way I am able to turn off my alarm.

The 2010 Dodge Avenger's engine produces 173 hp @ 6000 rpm.

My son has 20's on his 08 charger and they look big and I think you could fit 22's but 24's might cause a problem.

its actually code 12 which means that the battery or computer has been disconnected within the last 50 cranks

I did this last week on my 99 avenger. What you want to do is remove the air intake and the battery, they get in the way and make it hard to remove the covering. Next remove 4 bolts from the place where the thermostat is. mine was directly on the right of the engine. Take out the screws and remove the old thermostat. Insert new one and put everything back where you got it.

Brakes.