Dodge D100

mine 75 dodge is 5.5 bolt pattern. it just really depends on the axles.

16 inch

You need two people one on each side release wire (clip at top) then let the top of gate go pass level and lift up both sides at the same time.

change motor mounts, maybe heavier shocks, or springs

Its entirely possible that the 6 weighs as much as the 8. If your front end is in good shape I wouldn't worry. trans bell housing will need replaced if not the whole thing which could lead to a new drive shaft. A dodge might have a K member that needs changed for the engine swap. This one is worth some research as far as cost is concerned even if you were to do the work yourself it could get pricey fast. in my opinion the truck isn't worth the effort, old pickups are cheap these days! you could do better with a stock issue 8 as a base

My 1980 Dodge D-100 was a slant 6,4speed truck. Now it is a 318,4barrel ,headers with the same trans.

The 6 cylinder clutch is still in there. Find a donor truck and take all the parts like frame mounts etc. It is a straight forward swap.It pulls great and with the overdrive it gets 17 mpg.

Finding Dodge trucks that are not rusted out is getting tough,and I live down south. HAVE TO CHANGE TRANS<EXH> DRIVE SHAFT.

The timing for the 1977 225 slant 6 cylinder should be set at 2 degrees before top dead center. This applies to both the manual and automatic transmissions.

The last time I went to turn in some scrap metal, my 86 D150 weighed in at about 3000Ibs. without anything, including me. This is what mine was if I remember correctly, but mine has an inline six. If this does not help you out, just go to your local scrap yard or garbage transfer station, they usually will let you weigh in for free. Hope this helps.

I just fixed this problem on an '88 ram 100...the dealer gave me this printout...if it's anything like mine- open glove box all the way to expose under dash- there is a blue plastic module on the wall side. it is mounted on a tab...you can just gently slide it upwards and off...on the top is a very small hole that leads to a push button switch. With the engine running, run a very small screwdriver into the hole to depress the switch- turn off engine...that's all there is to it.

[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg310/Mayberry_08/dodgeram_zps81c7faae.jpg[/IMG]

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg310/Mayberry_08/dodgeram_zps81c7faae.jpg

.035 in

I am not sure this is the trouble, if you remove the cover on the steering wheel there will be a large nut if this nut is tight the splines on the wheel could be bad, might be looking at replacing the column, or the steering wheel. I the nut is loose simple tighten and replace cover.

17 thousandths on the points and 10-12 degrees before top dead center. Early '70s vehicles came from factory with 0 btdc for smog reasons but now that they are excempt 10-12 is best.

Bravo 1.2 engine code 182B2.000 Torque Stage 1. 20Nm Stage 2. 30Nm Stage 3. + 90 degrees Stage 4. + 90 degrees Sequence 8 6 2 5 10 7 3 1 4 9 Bolts 9 & 10 are flywheel side of the engine.

This procedure applies for both 194, 230 & 250cui engines. 1. Clean the intake manifold using 200 grit emery cloth until metal is shiny. 2. Locate carb. gaskets, use high temp silicone (red) and apply a thin coating on the manifold suface. Install gasket on to mainfold. 3. Clean both sides heat shield plate which acts as a heat deflector for the carb using the same emery cloth in 1. above. Clean only the surfaces of the plate which mate to the manifold. 4. Apply thin layer of silicone as in 2 above. to the mating surface of the heat shield meeting the surface of the gasket installed in 2. 5. Install the heat shield. If the unit is fitted with an automatic choke, feed the choke rod through the hole of the heat shield. This rod will connnet to the butterfly choke valve at the top of the throat of the carb. 6. Another gasket is required between the heat shield and the carb. Apply silicone to both sides of the second gasket, and install to the heat shield. 7. Install the carb. Bolt the carb using 25 ft-lbs of torque. 8. Connect throttle linkage to the carb. Operate and check the throttle for full range of motion. 9. Connect the vacuum advance hose coming from the distributor vacuum advance unit to the base of the carb. Typically this doesn't need a clamp depending on the fit and size of hose. 10. Connect the fuel line to the carb. Clamp using small pipe clamp or equivalent. 11. Connect the choke rod to the butterfly valve as described in 5. above. 12. Install the air cleaner horn and air filter. 13. Install the air cleaner horn cover using a wingnut. (no not your neighbour :-) 14. Get in the car, crank it over and pump the sh-t out of it until it starts. 15. Peel out if you've got the power.

valve seal possition

it could be the shearing pin fitted in most cars to stop thieves breaking the steering lock, could have been damaged when you took it out, or the splines on the lower knuckle joint not connected