Dodge Durango

10 to 12 citie hw 16 to 20

It is not equipped with a cabin filter.

My 2002 Durango has this issue. It is the little gates that open and close to direct air flow to the feet, to the windshield, to the vents, etc: The control arms that open and close them are broken or have fallen out of their sockets.

It is very expensive to fix. I suggest that, unless you live where you need A/C all eyar round, just open your windows and buy a plug-in fan for your dashboard. I was quoted over $1000 to fix it.

Not from the factory.

The 2014 Dodge Durango is 16 ft. 9.2 in. (201.2 in.) long.

back of the fuse box panel.

YES

Do nothing. There was no such thing in 1967.

1 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2

Fuel injected. Most all American vehicles have been fuel injected since 1988 or so.

The EGR is located on the passenger side of the engine up towards the front, underneathe the airbox.

Remove the airbox.

Locate the EGR, you can do this buy purchasing a new EGR for 40-80 dollars. Looking at it, then finding the same part on your enginge.

After taking the airbox off and out of the way.

Remove the EGR, it comes out with two bolts.

Dont forget to replace the gasket.

Replace, reconnect the electrical, and have your codes cleared ( check engine light will go away when you do this).

:)

Sounds like its flooding. if its carbarated then i'd guess that its either flooding or its a bad air to fuel ratio. if it's fuel injected then its most likely a censor. i'd have to know what type of vehicle to try and guess which one but if your check engine light is on then that's most likely the problem.

Unhook the battery for ten minutes.

I also have a Meriden Model 15 for which I need parts. I would be glad to provide you a picture the action bar and forearm is you would do same for the firing pin - out of the gun. I would also be willing to provide key dimensions if you would do the same. KSHUNTER

With any un-sharp object like a blunt pencil. Drain tube is under car, passenger side, near firewall. You may have to use a long coat hanger or piece of stiff wire to unclog it.

it should not go all the way to zero. going low is not alway a bad thing. The problem can be the pick up tube for the oil pump is getting clogged with sluge. The other is that the oil pump is getting ready to go. if you need more info on parts replacement let me know. Also the shop book for you vehicle will have the info. most parts stores carry the books. it will also give you the correct pressure ratings. hope itt helps. duboff

335 HP with 5.7 Hemi... Approx 100 Hp less with 4.7

2004 Dodge Durango brake light bulb lamp replacement: Purchase the correct replacement brake light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement brake light bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for brake light bulb lamp replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

yes

Remove the door panel by removing the holding screws. The screws are Phillips-head screws located under the armrest, one in the door latch, and some at the bottom of the door panel. The door panel can then be removed by popping out the plastic catches around the perimeter (this requires careful pulling so as not to break them). Lift the door panel upward to disengage the top from the window slot. If the door panel is not budging, carefully check that you have not forgotten to remove a screw.

There are about 3 electrical connectors connecting the electric mirror, possible a speaker, and the window motor and door lock controls. Pull the door panel away from the door to access these connectors. They have snap locks that can be squeezed to disconnect them.

The window control unit can be snapped out of the door panel, but I usually just leave it in place. You will need to reconnect the window switches to active the window regulator to test the new regulator when you are finished.

You may have to peel some of the plastic sheeting that is glued to the door with sticky black gunk. Just try not to get too much of this stuff on you, but the semi-transparent plastic sheet can be pushed back into place when you are finished. Usually you are going to need access to the bottom holes and it helps to have visibility to find the bolts you are going to need to loosen. Use a socket driver (most bolts are 10 or 11 mm).

Locate the clamp at the top of the regulator slide trolley that holds the bottom of the window. There are two bolts that clamp the bottom of the window in place. If your old regulator is broken (you're replacing it, duh), you will need to push the window downward or upward to find the door holes that allow you to access the bolt heads on the clamp. I have used a 1 x 1 piece of a wood board about a foot long or so to prop the window in place by threading this board into the door (push up through the big holes in the bottom, then set the bottom of the board on the inside bottom of the door). Alternatively, you can have someone hold the window up, or generously duct-tape it place.

Once you take the clamp bolts out and pull the window upwards out of the clamp, the window is free to drop, so be careful (it's pretty heavy). Pull the window up out of the way and duct tape or prop it to keep it out of your way. Once again, it's heavy, and you don't want it falling while your hands are inside the door and acting like a guillotine.

The window regulator unit is held in place by 6 screws (4 hold the slide, and 2 hold the motor) that are easily accessed on the door. Find the connecting wire to the motor and its connector and remember where the hole in the door where it comes out. You will need to put the new regulator's connector out through there. Use a flashlight to verify that the wire goes to the motor, so you know you have the right connector. Not all the bolts holding the motor need to be completely removed, you will notice that once they are loosened, the motor should slide upward a little so the bolt-heads can slip through the widened slots in the door metal.

Remove the slide first, and the last screw on the motor while holding the motor at the bottom to keep it from falling by putting your hand up inside the door. Once it is loose, slide the motor up and sideways slightly at first to free it, then thread the slide and motor out the bottom hole (looks impossible at first, but can be done).

Insert the new regulator back into place through the bottom door opening, bolt the motor in place first. Be sure to re-thread the motor's connector and wire out the proper hole first, and don't it caught between the motor and door when you tighten the motor's bolts. Position the slide and bolt it back in place. Check to be sure that you have not caught any wires or the window cable between the door and the motor or the slide. If a bolt is difficult to go in, or something seems funny, stop and check.

You can now lower the window (remove the duct tape) to the slide trolley and it should rest there before you bolt it. At this point, you may need to reconnect the window switch to raise or lower the window to align the bolt holes in the door so you can tighten the window clamps. It is easy to pull the window up out of the slide trolley, so be careful. Also, keep your hands and fingers clear while all this stuff is moving, as there are lots of pinch points in there.

Clamp the window, and test run to see if everything is smoothly running before you close up the sheet plastic and snap and screw the door panel back in place. The door connectors will snap back (they only fit the connector they were intended for). Don't forget the speaker and window motor connectors.

I hope this helps - I am writing this from memory, (I've done this on my 2003 Durango, on the driver side) so some details about how many bolts are there may be wrong.

Top passenger side of the bell housing, behind the passenger side cylinder head.
The CPS is typically located on the passenger side of the transmission bellhousing on V6 and V8 models. The V10 model is located on the lower right side of the engine block.

Mass air flow sensor high.

Look for electrical issues, grounding wires are common.

Check for leaks in the ducting, look for bad grounds.

Battery negative test to block, less than .04 volts is ok.

Now test it to the chassis .02 is ok.

Do this with engine on.

TPS voltage should be steady at idle, move the throttle around and see if it always comes back to the same reading.

Check your throttle bore shaft for wear by wiggling it ( with the engine off)

if it is worn it will send all kinds of mixed signals to the computer, same result if the ground is bad, this is observed by the variation in idle voltage.

If you question the condition of the thermostat, just replace it, they're cheap enough.

There are two, one on each side of the catalytic converter.

There are two, one on each side of the catalytic converter.

The 2005 Dodge Durango has a 4-speed automatic.