Assuming not diesel. Could be your catalytic converter becoming blocked
I presume that the car is ok when ticking over? It is most likely to be the fuel pump relay switch, basically the car is not getting enough petrol for you to accelerate but is just enough to tick over. Do you also have a problem with the lights coming on and the fuel gauge not registering?
MINE WAS DOING THE SAME THING AND IT WAS THE EGR VALVE!! THAT FIXED IT AND IT'S RUNNING GREAT!!:)GOOD LUCK
1972 through 1980 dodge cabs are interchangeable for the most part.
it is possible that your brake hoses are bad and soft not letting the brake fluid back out of your calipers
It is in the tank and you can buy them from a Chrysler dealer
that had them in Washington. I can't remember the dealer it's been so long.
This is not a job for the weak! Remove wheel, on the end of the Axle there are six hex bolt's, remove them. Pull your Axle from you axle tube, NOTE there is a gasket in-between the axle and the break drum, so take care not to tear it. If you do you can make one from a peice of thin rubber or buy one. Next you will see a round metal ring there are two ears on it that are bent over the nut. Bend them away from the nut, remove the ring. Now if you are lucky enought to have a socket to fit that 2and1/2 inch nut, you can take it off. If you don't have one, you can use a chisel and a hammer. Lay the chisel on the edge of the nut and hit it counter clock wise. "Note" make sure they are not left hand threds'; if I remember corectly they are right hand threds' This will damage the nut some but don't worry about it. Just don't beat the crap out of it. Just get some groves in the edge of the nut and spin it off. After that you will see a big washer, remove it, now the barring comes out. If you can't get your fingers on it wobble the drum around it will come out. Now remove you drum theres' your breaks. In the inside of the drum there is a oil seal before you put the drum back on REPLACE the seal; because if it leeks after you put it back together it will reunion you new breaks with gear oil, not only that you will lose you gear oil from your rear, "The seal is very important" There is also a baring in side the brum DO NOT mix your baring's, And make sure you don't over tighten the nut when you reasemble it, this also is very important. Good Luck!
399, includes slant 6, V8s, and tandem axles
All the mid to late 70's Power Wagons had a 360. At least that's what the factory put in them. unless someone changed the engine, a 1975 dodge power wagon would have a 360.
^^ The above answer is wrong. Dodge Power Wagons in the 1960's had the 318 cubic inch V8. This motor was used until 2001 when the Dodge Ram was redesigned.
I have a 1974 W100 Power Wagon with a 318 and a 4spd. The 360 was an option. Also you could get the 3/4 ton and larger trucks with the 440 V8.
As for your 75 Power Wagon, the 318 and 360 are very similar, the 360 has a different borestroke and shorter fan. I'm not sure how to tell you to determine which yours is other than checking the numbers on the block.
Try 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 CLOCKWISE The firing order is above. If you need a diagram you can get one at http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/firing_order.shtml .
on the drivers side the plug closest to the radiator is the #1 plug.
A naive drinker will feel relaxed and disinhibited at about .04.
An experienced drinker will require more, and may not be able to reach that state at all without becoming visibly intoxicated.
tape, flagpoles, those things you use for rock climbing, and the pulleys the construction people use! :)
Hey George===First remove the negative battery cable. Rme ve the flywheel cover. Then remove the bolts holding the starter to the block. Drop the starter down enough to remove the wires. then remove the starter. GoodluckJoe
Theres a latch behind the grill and once it pops up theres another latch under the center of the hood
The wait to start light on a 92 Dodge Diesel truck can be caused by a lack of fuel to the engine. It can also be caused by a wiring problem.
The plow blade will fit any similarly sized truck. However, the mounting assembly needs to be matched to the frame of the vehicle it is going onto.
caliper froze, brake line collapse, or wheel bearing out.
This for the 4x4 version, remove the caliper and brake assembly, remove the spindle nut (large bar or very large impact) remove the lower ball joint nut slowly with a jack under the ball joint and gently release the pressure on the suspension eventually lowering the jack. swing the wheel hub assembly a side and remove the axle. place the joint in a supported vise and remove the retainer clips that hold the u-joint stable in the joint housing, gently with a socket the same sixe of the u-joiny cap and a brass hammer pound the joint from the housing, install the new joint and reassembly in the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to torque the spindle not and replace all clips/kotter pins.
like you do in any other vehicle