Dodge Spirit

A reason not obvious could be the trunk light bulb which is on the same circuit. We had a case where the bulb looked good, but the filament was loose and would sometimes connect ok and sometimes short. The only case where the fuse would blow was when you opend the trunk AND the filament decided to short. Prior to diagnosing this, the dealer told us it was the radio which we had removed, but which didn't solve the problem. or at least rules out another part of the puzzle.

You replace it.

According to Gates ( they make timing belts etc. ) the 3.0 L - V6 engine in a 1993

Dodge Spirit is NOT an interference engine ( it does use a TIMING BELT )

where are the timing marks on a 94 2.5 dodge shadow es

The interior lights can be turned on (and brightened/dimmed) by rotating the knob you pull out to turn on the exterior lights. To turn them on, turn it to the right.

yea u can alright :)

do the headlights come on automatically or manually, if manually turn off

most likely a bad axle or maybe wheel bearing

Check to see if the inner mud guard isn't rubbing at some point. Axle should be a click or thumping, not a scrape. Brakes worn on that side more and you are down to metal possibly.

After the ignition key is turn off the car runs for about 3-5 seconds and shuts down. Recently, I had to disconnected the coil wire to stop the engine. The next morning it went back to the original problem.

call parts house to determine if its in gas tank probably is then drain fuel out of tank with syphon dissconnect any wires pull loose tank and pull round head of tank then replace fp replace all in same order Drain Tank (If possible)

Support tank with something like a transmission jack, if you dont have a trans jack then a regular jack with some wood to help support the tank

Remove Straps

Lower Tank afew inches so that you can be able to disconnect wires and pipes without putting to much pressure on them and distroying them. The pump should be held in place with a lock nut... after you remove tank from under vehicle, take a screw driver and a hammer and gentle hit the nut till it begins to turn, then remove pump and replace with the new one.

No, it is just in front of the tank.

The temp guage could be faulty, where it has gone bad, or the heat sensor itself had gone bad unless the vehicle is actually getting hot. O2 sensor wont cause rough idling but it would cause these types of problems: * Surging and/or hesitation Poor or a decline in fuel econmy Failed exhaust emissions testing Premature failure of the catalytic converter (rotten egg smell) Indicator "idiot" check engine lights coming on

If you are too stupid to know what form oe the word "brake" to use, i would recommend taking your car to a repair shop.

On the fuse pannel that's almost under the steeringwheel... just pop the pannel off and there they r. the one for the turn signal is I believe its the square box, it just pulls off... the long like, round and gray one is the headlight relay.

Did you check to see if the coil was receiving any power? If its not it might be a bad wire, or possibly the ASD Relay.

I've worked on a lot of spirits and acclaims. Never have seen a shut off switch. Chrysler doesn't use shut off switches to my knowledge. That's a Ford thing.

The problem could be one of two things. The most comon problem is the multi-function switch, (the swotch that turns your brights on and your signals, and your wipers when the contacts get worn out the headlights may not work,) Also doge had some serious problems with ignition switches, not to be confused with the tumbler this is what the tumbler mounts in.

you have one of two problems. either you have a bad gauge or a bad sensor. I would go to a pick and pull junkyard and get a new sender off of a car at the junkyard, if that does not help, I would go back to the junkyard and get the gauge of another car and replace it. This will solve your problem Dodge Spirit and Plymouth Acclaims have issues with the temp sensor. Also, you could have a leaking head gasket which is my current problem on my 94 Spirit.

Removing the Key Switch requires a special torx bit screwdriver with a hole in it, or you can use a basic torx bit and use a drill with a small bit to drill out the center part of the screw with the stub in it that wont allow a normal torx bit to go into.

If you're blower motor isn't working, before replacing, check for power through the system by checking for continuity or voltage with a multimeter. The AC/Heating system gets it's own power through the ignition switch seperately from other accessories and only passes power in the RUN position, so check for power there first. If you don't have power at the ignition switch, check the fusible link between the battery and firewall (There's a whole group of them about a foot away from the firewall on the left side). I found out that was the problem with my ventilation system after I'd already torn apart the dash. If you have to replace the blower motor (make sure it is the blower motor first, because it's not a fun project), you'll have to remove the glovebox. You'll then have to remove the fan enclosure by removing several bolts. You'll probably have to replace the gasket as well, as the one in my car fell apart once the enclosure was removed. You'll then have to remove the fan by decompressing a spring clip and removing from the center spindle. You can then remove the fan. In my car, there wasn't a connector at the blower motor, so you'd have to desolder or cut the wires. If you do cut the wires, you'll have to resolder the new blower motor in and put heatshrink over the solder joints (adhesive preferably), as I don't believe it is advised to use crimps due to the amount of current. Ultimately there'll be soldering involved, most likely in a cramped space, so be careful of solder drips. If the fusible link is blown, check the connection at the ignition switch. Mine melted pretty severely, which is probably what blew the fusible link. If you change the fusible link, put a fuse holder in it's place. If you have to replace the ignition switch connector as well, solder everything... no crimps.

No input sensor. The vehicle speed sensor is located in the top of the housing that the right axle shaft goes into.

Could be that after you started it then turned it off then restarted it that you've reset the codes and fooled the Computer... you need to have the codes run on the car to see what the problem really is, i dont think its anything major since the car seems to be running good.

This is happening to my car too and I had the codes run and they did a scope on my engine and a bunch of other things and they could not find anything wrong. They said to be careful and monitor the temperature because it did occassionally show it was over heating but other than that not to worry. It has now also stopped over heating. Mine is a 94 but the problem sounds the same.

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