Dodge Vans

Water pump replacement on the 98 requires a special air tool. You need a fan removal tool which requires an air hammer. If you try without it you will bust your knuckles. The fan pully can't be held by typical fan removal tools so you need the air tool. Save the money on bandages for your busted knuckles and buy the tool. The manual says you should remove the shroud to get the fan out, but I managed to get it out without removing the shroud.

I would also recommend using an air ratchet to remove the water pump bolts. There is a lot of stuff in the front and not a lot of room so not having to move your hand really helps. The next problem is the heater hose outlet. It's a hard pipe that comes off the water pump. Use a torch to remove it. Reinstall it on the water pump using the o-ring and as much copper form-a-gasket as you can get in there. You don't want it to leak or blow steam. Past those problems it's a typical water pump change. Make sure you get a paper gasket and liberally apply the aforementioned form-a-gasket to seal the paper gasket. You don't want to have to do it twice.

Lastly, when reassembling the system, make sure the heater hose outlet is firmly attached to the engine with the bolt on clip. Do not leave the clip unattached because the pressure in the system will be sufficient to blow it out. Second degree burns are no fun and anti-freeze is ten dollars a gallon. Don't burn yourself and your paycheck by trying to save a step.

I you folks.

you don't the fins and water passage way are too small or thin, it would just melt.

On the 1979 B200 Sportsman V8 if the brake pedal makes all signal lights come on and hazards and flashers do not work on their own, it could be the flasher, but the culprit could also be a burned out bulb or a short in the wiring.

Under the rotor inside the distributor.

First, check the fuel filter. It could be letting just enough fuel through to start you going but not keep you going. Has you're catalytic converter ever been replaced? As they get warmed up they can shut down the exhaust system. How about your coil. When it gets warmed up it can stop working.

It is on the top rear of the engine, next to the distributor. You will need to remove the engine cover from inside vehicle. There are clamps to the front and bolts to the floor (under the edge of the carpet).

Only if it has the 3.3L engine can it use E85

The Chrysler tool is called a DRBIII

See if your public library has books on automobile wiring.

The 318 provides about 230 HP while the 360 provides about 190hp

The engine speed governor is part of the engine computer programming. You would need to have a way of reprogramming it to change.

IT IS LOCATED IN THE FEUL TANK.

There is a sensor located between exhaust manifold #1 and #3 (drivers side). This sensor controls the temp gage in a cars interior.

It is inside the distributor.

More than likely it holds 5 quarts with a oil/filter change. To know for sure, park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and replace the filter. Add 4.5 quarts of oil, and start the engine. Wait a minimum of 1 minute and shut the engine down. Wait 1 hour and check the oil level. Add as necessary, waiting 1 minute between adding oil, and checking the level, to fill it to the full mark. You now know what the oil capacity is.

If the fusible link itself comes apart, it's faulty and needs replacing, preferably with a new fusible link of the same size. Fusible links are a kind of permanent fuse, so it needs to be there and it needs to be the right one. If a new one cannot be obtained from an auto parts store, a Dodge dealer should have it. Install the new one as per its directions.

Pop open the hood. Take a look at the radiator's upper hose. See how it goes to the engine, then sharply bends down behind the alternator and air conditioner compressor? It's down there. Good luck, and you'll need to go from inside the van. A magnetic socket will help, because you won't be able to see yourself putting the bolts back on to hold it in.

The Haynes manual says you'll need to remove the alternator, but that's not necessary. Just loosen the bracket so you can move it out of the way, but you don't need to disconnect the wires.

we happen to own one and the sticker says 6,200 lbs. hope this helps you.

2.7L uses 5w30

3.5L uses 10w30

5.7L uses 5w20

On the lower left side of engine.

No!!!

It would depend on the year early 1960 Dodges had reverse threads on the drivers side.

The vehicle's PCM (Power Train Control Module) has detected a leak in the vehicle's EVAP (Evaporative System), allowing fuel vapors to escape. The most common cause of this is the gas cap being left off after refueling. It can also be caused from cracked vapor lines that go from the engine to the fuel tank or a leak in any of the components in the EVAP system. If after a visual inspection there are no obvious causes of a leak found, a smoke test ca be performed at a repair shop to determine the source of the leak. It means a leak has been detected in the evorative system. Check all the lines that connect to the purge canister and the return fuel lines from the fuel rail. Also check the lines returning to the fuel tank form the purge (charcoal) canister. Hope this helps.

You need to determine if the problem is fire or fuel. On the firewall the is a white ceramic ballast resistor that is bad about burning out. It controls the fire to the distributor. If you are not getting fuel, then you need to check the fuel pump for pressure and volume.

On the end of the transmission, under the van on the driver's side. You should look at the part at a parts store on-line so you'll know how does it look like.

on my van there are two coolant sensors. both are on either side of the thremostat housing. i had to remove the alternator to get to the one that operates the gauge. it was on the passe3nger side of the thermostat housing. the other is on the drive's side and operates the ecm. i had to revmove the airconditioning unit just to see it.