Eagle Talon

"Warning."

i think 6 3/4 for rear panel

Yes all DSM's (Talons, Eclipses and Lasers) have the same bolt wheel pattern (5x114.3 or 5x4.5)

it might have a turbo timer on it There night be a turbo timer on it.If you have one your car will run until it cools off.

it depends if you have the 1.8or the 2.0. The 1.8 is only 90 something HP and wont get you going all that fast. but the 2.0 is like 135 HP and is pretty quick. so more info please

Suggestions:

Some may sound obvious but its surprising how often people overlook them.

1)Did you forget about the battery "keeper"? (The metal plate that screws in on top of the battery to keep it in place.) Is it under the battery?

2)Is the battery the correct size for your vehicle? Different varients of the same model sometimes use completely different sizes / shapes of batteries.

3)Is the battery located properly? Check that it isn't sitting on top of the rim of the battery-tray.

4)Are the terminal connectors located properly? Sometimes if not secured properly the connectors can come loose and "ride up" on the terminal.

5)Double check that there is nothing between the battery and battery-tray. A stray section of the cars wiring harness, a screwdriver or spanner for example.

6)Is there anything out of place about the way the bonet sits on its hinges? Did it close properly before? Has it been damaged?

If everything is in order and the battery tray hasn't been moved then you must have the wrong size battery.

It could be the spark plugs are generating spark, but the sparks are weak or the initial mixture for starting is not appropriate. Below is the procedure for troubleshooting "Fires up and dies". #1 Check the battery. If 8 volts or higher on positive voltage when cranking, go to #2. If not, check the battery. #2 Check for codes, Are there any DTC's present? If no, continue to #3. If yes, pull the codes and refer back to here for further input. #3 Check the fuel pump relay and fuel pump for operating sound. If no, check the fuel pump system. If yes, continue to #4. #4 Check Engine coolant temperature sensor. If ok, go to #5. #5 Using a stethoscope or long blade screwdriver, check the operation sound (tick tick tick) of the injectors. Can any sound be heard from the injectors when cranking? If no, check the injector control circit. If yes, continue to #6. #6 Is starting good if the engine is cranked with the accelorator pedal slightly depressed? If no, Check the following items, ignition coil, spark plugs and spark plug cables. Clean the injectors, check the compression pressure, check fuel lines for clogging, check if foreign material got into the fuel (water, alcohol, sugar, etc.) If Yes, go to #7. #7 Check the IAC motor (OK means idle speed fluctuates or motor sound can be heard). If no, check the idle air control motor circuit. If yes, check the throttle body minimum air flow.

Replacing the Eagle Talon headlights on a 2g is actually a big task for the first time. I will do my best to cover it

There are 3 bolts on top, and one bolt on the bottom but the bolt on the bottom faces in, I'm guessing it is used for aiming the light. The 3 bolts on top are easy, there's 2 right on top, then there's the 3rd one, on the side by the blinker, bit of a tight squeeze but you can get it.

The 4th bolt is where a lot of work comes in, after you do it the first time though, you will think it's easy, it's just a little nerve racking if you don't have any experience with cars, because the entire front bumper has the come off.

Basically, unbolt the entire front bumper from the car, there's about 8 screws under the bumper, I think 6 across the top by the rad, in each wheel well you need to unscrew the splash guard and pull that back, and look up, there will be 2 bolts on the bumper going into the body, unbolt those, turning the wheel of the car away from where you need to unbolt makes it easier to see. Then go under the car, and there's 4 big bolts, 2 for each support arm, unbolt those, then pull the bumper off, voila, there's the single bolt that you need to unscrew, make sure you unplug the headlights and pull them out.

Seems like a lot of work, but once you just go for it, it's not that big of a deal.

All the bolts, EXCEPT for the 4 bolts on the support arms are 10mm, and all the screws are +.

Raise the hood and look for the drive belt. The drive belt powers the alternator.

Camshaft angle sensor (CAS) is on the head opposite of the timing belt. A 95 also has a crankshaft position sensor and that is down below the timing belt.

1G's only had one sensor to do the job of both and 95 and later have two sensors to send info to the PCM.

there is no filler cap. pull the tranny dipstick and use a funnel.

get the manual!

It will be on the drivers side next to the fire wall. It will be attached to the master cylinder which is attached to the large round black thing called the brake booster attached to the fire wall. The lid is white I believe and should say "use dot 3 brake fluid only". This is also confused with the clutch reservoir. The brake reservoir should be the larger of the two.

take the negative termainal on the battery off for 30 seconds then reconect

Try cleaning your injectors.

There are no signs it just goes! Had two of mine go in one year. Be sure to get it changed every 80,000 miles. If they go it could bend your pistons and valves in your engine and totally wreck it. Happened to me twice. Better off just paying a couple hundred to get a new timing belt than a couple thousand for a new engine.

I topped my 1991 stock manual Eagle Talon non-TSi at 141mph on 16" tires... This car only wants more air. Little free modifications I've performed: removing the "bee-web" in the air filter box and drilling the box as a gun silencer.

Manual trans '90 - '94 1.8L API GL-4 or higher SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W 1.90qts(1.8L) " FWD NA API GL-4 or higher SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W 2.30qts(2.2L) " FWD Turbo API GL-4 or higher SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W 2.30qts(2.2L) " AWD API GL-4 or higher SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W 2.40qts(2.3L) Auto trans fluid '90 - '94 1.8L Dia ATF SP or MITSUBISHI PLUS ATF or equivelant 6.40qts(6.1L) " 2.0L NA Dia ATF SP or MITSUBISHI PLUS ATF or equivelant 6.40qts (6.1L) " 2.0L Turbo Dia ATF SP or MITSUBISHI PLUS ATF or equivelant 7.40qts(7.02L) From the Chrysler FAQ Question: Can the so-called "universal" automatic transmission fluids be used in all Chrysler Corporation vehicles calling for ATF+? The labels of the universal brands do not mention Chrysler applications. Answer: There's a good reason why universal brands do not mention Chrysler applications. Chrysler now recommends that only ATF+ Type 7176 (PN 4467721) be used in all Chrysler automatic transmissions with locking torque converters. Substituting any other automatic transmission fluid can lead to drivability problems. Mopar ATF+ allows more slippage than other friction-modified fluides.

there are 2 screws located underneath the hanndle for the sunroof. take those out and the the handle should be released from the glass. lift the glass up to about a 70 to 80 degree angle and then you should be able to slide it back and out for removal. presto! your finished.

theres a idle control on the trottle body. theres two 10mm bolts to loosen and move the cable to idle higher. then tighten the bolts..... do this with the engine running.

It takes 4.5 quarts of oil

It is eight cards plus one cross card placed on the supply side of the canasta tray. After dealing all players their cards the balance of the cards to play are placed on top of the "talon". Hf

5w30 or 10w30

Inducers would be the main word.

Here are a few more:

* Cinder.s * Cruise.d * Discern * Inducer * Induces * Insure.d * Cider.s * Cried * Cries

* Crude * Curies

* Curse.d * Dicers

* Diner.s * Dries

* Dunce * Inure.d * Inure.s * Nice.r * Nude

* Nurse.d * Rein.s

* Resin

* Rinse.d * Risen * Rude

* Ruined * Ruse

* Scried * Siren

* Snide.r * Under

the base and esi have 140hp