What is the difference between a Moon roof and Sun roof if any?
A sunroof is opaque (usually flush metal with the body color on the outside). This roof can either tilt open to vent, slide open to let in light, or both. It is called a sunroof because the opacity prevents the sun from heating up the vehicle. These have existed for quite some time.
In the 1970s, Ford introduced a glass sunroof that they named the Moonroof (actually, the American Sunroof Company, the company that made all domestic sunroofs and now known as American Specialty Cars invented it, but Ford was the first to install it). So to answer the question, a moonroof is a sunroof made of glass.
The problem is, the distinction is becoming lost as more and more people use it incorrectly. Most people today just consider any sort of hole in the roof a sunroof. But in the strictest sense, sunroof=metal, moonroof=glass.
Many think that a sunroof is clear and a moonroof is tinted. Nope, not the right answer. Others think that a sunroof will open but a moonroof will not. Wrong again. The truth is that a moonroof is actually a type of sunroof! For more info, I'm deferring to an expert, Marc Levinson of Donmar Sunroofs, who also operates the free sunroof information site.
Here it is: Just as a sedan is a distinctive type of automobile, a moonroof is a type of sunroof. Sunroof is the generic term used to describe any panel in a vehicle roof which can let in light and/or air.
The term moonroof was used in the 70's to describe a glass panel inbuilt electric sunroof, and is now used generically to describe all glass panel inbuilt sunroofs. An inbuilt sunroof is one where the operable panel slides between the vehicle roof and headliner, and is often powered but may be manually operated"
What will happen if you use the wrong coolant in recharging your central air unit?
It will not work right.
How do you remove the electric window motor in the drivers side door of a 1999 vauxhall vectra sri?
To get at the motor,you must first remove the door trim.Model dependant,you will probably have to lever off the speaker cover,door mirror switch and handle bezel.Remove 4 screws and unclip carefully.You have to unplug the motor and drill out the rivets holding it on.(10 ish)There is a single bolt holding the linkage support.It's a bit of a fiddle slipping off the mechanism from the window.You will need a pop riveter to fit the new unit.Adjust the channels,not too loose or tight before securing the bolt.Re-initialise the motor by sending window up and holding down the switch for 5 seconds.
Is there a way to reduce the amount of energy your central air conditioner uses?
The U.S. Department of Energy offers these tips: Set your thermostat at 78°F or higher. Each degree setting below 78°F will increase your energy consumption by approximately 8%. Use bath and kitchen fans sparingly when the air conditioner is operating. Check and clean both indoor and outdoor coils periodically. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the single most common cause of poor efficiency. Check the refrigerant charge. You may need a service contractor to check the fluid and adjust it appropriately. Shade east and west windows. When possible, delay heat-generating activities, such as dish washing, until the evening on hot days. Keep the house closed tight during the day. Don't let in unwanted heat and humidity. If practical, ventilate at night either naturally or with fans. Try not to use a dehumidifier at the same time your air conditioner is operating. The dehumidifier will increase the cooling load and force the air conditioner to work harder. [From Reducing Your Central Air Conditioner's Energy Use at The U.S. Department of Energy Website] I would also add that you replace all incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs. Incandescent bulbs generate a lot of waste heat that the AC must get rid of. You should only use compact fluorescent bulbs where it is dry and not in an enclosed fixture (an enclosed fixture will reduce the life of the bulb). Also, consider how much you will be using the light. It is better to replace only the bulbs that will be on for more than 15 minutes at a time. Also note that compact fluorescents cannot be used with dimmers. These bulbs not only put out less waste heat for the AC to get rid of, but they save considerable energy to light the bulb (as far as brightness, a 26W compact fluorescent equals about 100W incandescent bulb).
Your English is wanting - but if you are asking if the windows are controlled via a safety lockout switch then the aswer is yes. On almost all cars with electric windows the driver has a switch that can be turned on-off that disables all but the driver's windows in one position by disconnecting the electricity to those local controls.
How do you change the drivers side window motor on a 1984 GMC full size pickup?
take off door panel, disconnect wires, remove mounting bolts and and lift mechanism.
How do you remove the door panel to get to the window motor?
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/remove-a-door-panel-from-any-vehicle-without-a-diagram
Driver side power window is not working properly is there a site that can show you how to do this?
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/remove-a-door-panel-from-any-vehicle-witho
ut-a-diagram
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether
the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/replace-a-power-window-regulator
How do you refit a front door electric window for a 1995 Vauxhall Cavalier?
In the immortal words used by many car manuals "Refitting is the reversal of removal" or in other words, the same way you removed it but in reverse!
Why might electric windows not go up or down?
Your window might not go up and down because the motor in it is bad. First check the swithches then if they have power you will need a new motor. I would run 12 volts directly into the motor to check it before I would buy a new one or replace it.
How do you fix an electric window that won't roll down?
Another toll-booth, another mile--or at least it seems as if the tollbooths come every mile on this road, with a half mile of traffic idling its leisurely way up to the token monster. Within an arm's length of the bin, you toggle the power window switch with one hand while the other hand fingers a token, preparing to whip it into the basket just as you floor the throttle. All goes as planned--except the window doesn't move, the token bounces back into your face, and you have to jam on the brakes, crack the door and pitch a second token backhanded to keep from getting a ticket as a toll evader, all to the tune of horns blaring from the cars behind you.
Fortunately, power windows are usually one of the more reliable systems on a late-model car. And diagnosis and repair are usually pretty straightforward.
What's Up?
The most common power window mechanism is pretty basic. There's a simple regulator mechanism, usually similar to the mechanism used on garden-variety hand-cranked windows. It comes in several varieties--rack, sector and cable drive. Troubleshooting is pretty straightforward, once you get the door panels off--but your problem may be terribly simple and may not require removing any trim at all.
First: Are all of the windows on the fritz? Or just one? If you can't move any of the windows, the first place to look is at the fuse. Window regulators are high-current devices, and the fuse is sized to just barely be able to open all four windows together. Age and a few sticky window channels can pop a fuse. Turn the key to the Run position, but don't start the car.
If the fuse is blown, pushing a window button will do nothing at all: The motor won't groan and the glass won't quiver. If the fuse is good and you can hear the motor, or the glass acts like it wants to move, then you've got some sort of mechanical problem. If not, check the fuse. If the fuse box isn't labeled, check the owner's manual to see which fuse is the culprit. Don't go yanking fuses willy-nilly looking for a bad one--you might interrupt the power to the engine management computer, causing poor driveability for 30 minutes or so--or you might reset all the buttons on your car radio to that undersea-alien rock-gospel station.
Fuse okay, but the window still won't budge? Again, are all the windows dormant? Or just one? If it's just one, you still may get an opportunity to go spelunking inside the door. If it's all four, maybe it's something simpler you can troubleshoot under the dash.
At this point, if you've narrowed the fault down to some electrical problem that's not as simple as a blown fuse you need to round up a schematic of your car's electrical system and a voltmeter or 12v test light. All that's necessary now is to start at the fuse panel and follow the wiring to the switch, and from there move on to the motor, testing along the way for 12 volts. Somewhere, you'll find a loose or corroded connector interrupting the voltage to the motor. Or, the switch itself might be bad. If the driver's door switch won't open the right rear door, but the switch in the door will, look for either a bad switch in the driver's door or a fault in the intervening wiring.
Carefully backprobe the window switches to isolate any electrical faults in the switches, connectors or wiring.
Open Sesame
At this point, you probably need to be able to access the inside of the switch panel. On some vehicles, like the one in our lead illustration, you can simply pry the panel up with your fingers and backprobe the connectors. Other vehicles may require that you remove the panel.
Door panels are held on with a bewildering variety of fasteners. Start by pulling off all of the door pulls and handles. The perimeter of the panel is customarily held on fragile plastic studs intended for one-time use. Pry them up carefully, and you should be able to reuse them.
Once you've got the door panel off, carefully remove the weather sheeting. You'll need to replace this later, and you may need fresh contact cement to do so.
Warning: You now have the ability to put your fingers into places where fingers normally don't go. As our mechanic pal Lefty points out, "A power window motor has enough torque to put a serious hurtin' on ya if it's actuated while errant digits are in the gears."
Reel and cable window regulators are simple mechanisms, but can be fussy about cable routing and may snag if jammed.
Proof Positive
As an absolute proof that the problem is electrical, try running a jumper wire direct from the battery positive terminal to the positive side of the motor to see if it comes alive. Be aware that a few window regulator systems supply 12v constantly, and switch the ground side of the circuit. Check the schematic. Also, most vehicles have the ability to lock--and deactivate--the rear windows. Check this switch if only the rears are balky. Occasionally, the true problem is a duff motor. You'll have to replace it. Otherwise, you can simply trace the wires until you find the problem.
Severe misalignment caused by loose fasteners can jam gear-type regulators.
Sticky
All windows have gaskets and seals to keep wind noise and rain out. If the window has a slow spot or won't open or close properly, check the gaskets. A gasket that's misplaced or torn can prevent proper operation. If the gasket is loose, or even torn, you may be able to repair it. If the gasket is simply loose, get some 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive at the auto parts store. Clean off the old adhesive with lacquer thinner and reglue the gasket into place. Allow this to dry overnight with the window closed, and be certain you're not gluing the window to the gasket.
If the gasket is torn, you might be able to use a super glue to simply repair the tear. You may be able to judiciously trim a loose corner of gasket away with a single-edge razor blade. Be particularly careful about doing this on the part of the gasket that sits outside of the glass, because it may admit rain and salt spray to the inside of the door in quantities too large for the door's internal drainage system to cope with.
Replacing a gasket or seal with a new part is generally straightforward. If it's not obvious that the gasket is astray, inspect the entire gasket and channel carefully. Look for damage, but also look for such things as pine sap, fossilized Froot Loops or other foreign objects that might make the window stick or bind. Clean the surface of the gasket and window with lacquer thinner to remove oxidized rubber and scum.
There's a fair amount of friction between the gasket and the window glass. Almost any misalignment can dramatically increase the friction to the point where the motor no longer has enough torque to move the glass properly.
Lubricate the entire channel with silicone spray or protectant, because the reduced friction just might get your window working again.
It's also possible that the problem is deeper inside the door. If so, you'll need to pull the door panel and go poking around. Remember to pull the fuse to prevent amputating your fingers. You can use either a rubber wedge doorstop or a couple of feet of duct tape to anchor the glass up while you work.
Sometimes the problem is nothing more than a loose bolt allowing the door's inner structure to move around, misaligning the window track. Many doors have slotted holes for the attachment points for internal parts, so careful consideration of the misalignment will sometimes let you simply slide one adjustment a 1/4 in. or so and straighten it all out. All bets are off if the door has been damaged in a crash. It may take a long time to get everything working right.
Lastly, the mechanism that runs the window up and down may be faulty. Whether it's a gear-and-sector, scissors lift or cable-operated mechanism, you'll need to watch it moving up and down a few times. Again, keep your fingers out of the works. Sometimes the problem will be a loose fastener or rivet, sometimes a broken or missing bushing. Cables can bind on the drum or become sticky. Lube all the friction points with white grease. Don't forget there are gaskets in the window track down below the top of the door, and you may need to reglue, repair or lubricate them.
It may be possible to replace a bad motor, or you may need the entire mechanism.
Check the weatherstripping and window channel for torn, loose or folded rubber parts, or foreign objects in the way.
HOW IT WORKS: Automatic WindowsSome late-model high-end cars have frameless windows that automatically crank themselves open a quarter-inch or so as the doors are opened. It happens so fast that you may not notice it. The window opens rapidly, clearing the seal before the door latch clears. It then closes automatically about a second after the door latch latches. There are two advantages to this. First, the slightly open window vents interior air, which can actually make doors on tightly sealed cars hard to open by springing the door back open against air pressure. It also lets the manufacturer use a vastly different style of seal on the top of the window. The seal can more closely resemble a sedan door seal, with a small lip protruding over the top of the glass. This type of seal won't work on frameless windows because the glass has to clear the seal as it opens and closes. This type of seal allows less water and noise intrusion. The downside is with the logic control module needed to achieve this. Repairs will probably need a factory shop manual and, potentially, some expensive parts.
How do you replace a car window handle?
remove the handle usually in one of three ways...either (1)a small screw in the handle usually pretty obvious and in older cars. (2)a set screw in the side of the handle that mainly wedges the handle on the shaft of the window crank assembly. or (3) the most confusing style, a small 'c' clip on the shaft just under handle. it's a pain to get to on some cars, but with a good set of pick tools, screw drivers, or whatever else you can find, you can pop the clip off, just be sure not to lose it because there is a good chance it'll shoot off pretty far.
to reinstall the last style of window handle, place the clip on the HANDLE in the grooves cut into it. then simply push the handle onto the shaft until you feel/hear a click and the clip has caught on the shaft's groove.
How do you pull up a stuck power window?
This worked for me in repairing my power windows, the glass had come off the rail. PLEASE READ ALL OF THE IMFORMATION PRIOR TO STARTING; if you are unsure, go and pick up a copy of Haynes or Chilton repair manual, a real good investment or seek professional help.
To do this repair, you have to remove the door panel to access the inside, the most common repair is the railing coming detached with the power window arm. This repair works if this is the case, this doesn't guarantee if this repair works, it depends on if there is any damage and if the arm has come disconnected with the glass rail. All i can say is this worked for me and took about 20-30 minutes and then weather sealant application time.
To door this repair, you will need a screw driver, door weather sealant, a second person if possible and some patience.
First, disconnect the battery terminal, then remove the plugs on the door handle and unscrew the 3 bolts. while still holding onto the door panel, slowly remove the arm rest to access the power door locks switch, undo the connector. You arm rest should be fully detached.
Next, slide the door handle cover to one side and remove, You are now going to remove the door panel. (NOTE: BEHIND IT IS THE RAIN SHIELD, BE VERY CAREFULLY NOT TO TEAR OR RIP OR YOU WILL HAVE WATER COME BACK INTO YOUR CAR ON THOSE WET DAYS)Next, carefully pull the door panel out, you can get tools to help in removing the clips or use a screw driver. start out at the bottom and work your way up. now make sure the lock will slide through its hole before fully removing and then lift the top up and slide to one side and the door panel is off.
You will now have to carefully remove the rain shield. be carefully not to tear...take your time...its well worth it. once the door skin is removed, you will now have access to your power windows. check and see if the power window arm is connected to the base rail of the window, if not that is your culprit. now comes re-attching...depending on if there is damage or your arm is bent, you may be able to re-attach it to the rail, be very careful of the glass, it helps to have a second set of hands, one to hold and another to attach. Be very careful not to put too much tension on the glass, it could break.
You may have to reattach the battery to get power to move the power window arm up and down to help get back onto the glass rail.
Once fixed, using the weather sealant, follow the instructions and apply the sealant and rain sheild. then reverse the steps above, attach door panel; make sure lock is through is hole and power door locks cable is fed through; once attached, get the arm rest and attach the power door locks switch; from here you can reattach the arm rest and door handle cover and your done!
As stated above, it all depends on what if any damage has been done, you will at least know now if you can fix or if you have to take it in and get a professional.
Some of these power windows fail because of simple and cheap plastic balls that get broken. The small ball bearings can be bought and replaced. It is not a very hard job. If the window rolls down and it seem that it just does not want to go up, it could be this small bearing. If it is the bearings, it could mean the difference of $200 to fix the window.
How to repair the power window when the cable is all tangled up and window loose?
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/remove-a-door-panel-from-any-vehicle-without-a-diagram
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether
the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/replace-a-power-window-regulator -cable
How do you change the power window motor in a 2002 Chevy Cavalier?
It is not an easy job. Get a manual on your car from the parts store.
I recently replaced the electric motor on the driver's side door of a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier. Chevrolet did not make this an easy repair because they used rivets to mount the motor and window regulator to the interior of the door. In addition, the motor and the window regulator are riveted together so that both assemblies must be removed from the door in order to replace the motor. I performed this repair without a Factory Service Manual (FSM). I expect that the repair would be easier with the FSM, but since I have not seen the FSM I can't be sure this is the case.
At the time I replaced the window motor ( 7/10/2009) I checked the price of the motor and the cluster of window switches in the center console at three Chevrolet dealers. The best price for the motor was $175 and the best price for the switch cluster was $98.
Before replacing the motor I recommend that you verify that the switch is functioning properly. Replacing the switch is considerably easier than replacing a window motor.
Here is a description of what I did to replace the electric motor in the driver's power window on a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier.
1. Remove the interior door panel. There are two screws in the arm rest and four around the sides and bottom of the panel. Disconnect the window door lock cable from the switch on the door.
2. Remove the sound system speaker by first disconnecting the electrical cable and then removing four screws.
3. Remove the plastic water shield. The shield is held in place with an adhesive that behaves like bubble gum. Pulling the plastic shield away from the door causes the adhesive to become stringy like bubble gum. The nice feature of this is that some adhesive adheres to the door and some to the shield so that during reassembly the shield sticks well to the door. During removal I used a razor blade to cut the strings to help reduce any mess. Some of the shield was caught under the door panel armrest support so that it was necessary to cut the shield to completely. Rather than cutting the shield I just folded it up and taped it to the door. Be careful of what comes in contact with the adhesive because after a few hours of contact the adhesive sticks to almost anything. It even stuck to the wax paper placed over the adhesive to keep it from attaching to anything it came in contact with while I was removing the window regulator/motor assembly.
4. Remove the window glass. There are two nuts holding the window glass to the window regulator. It is easiest to have the window positioned about half way up to allow access to the two nuts. The window glass can be pulled out of the door by lifting the rear edge of the glass first.
5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the window motor.
6. Remove the window regulator and motor assembly. This will require an electric drill and some drill bits to drill out the 5 rivets. There are two bolts that attach part of the window regulator to the door. These need to be removed as well. Once the rivets and bolts have been removed the entire assembly (window regulator and motor) can be removed through the large opening near the rear of the door. It may not look like it will fit, but it does. The most difficult part of this repair was locating rivets to replace the rivets that are removed. The Chevrolet dealership that I bought the motor from did not have the rivets available in their parts department. I had to locate some at a local tool supply. Be careful to find replacement rivets that are the same length as those that were removed because at least two of the rivets could interfere with the moving parts of the window regulator if they are too long.
7. Remove the window regulator from the motor. There are three rivets that hold the window regulator and the motor assemblies together. Remove the rivets by drilling them out. These rivets can be replaced with screws from the local hardware store if you prefer not to use rivets.
8. Attach the new motor to the window regulator assembly using rivets or screws. I used stainless steel machine screws and nuts along with a lock washer under each nut. Choose whatever attachment method you prefer.
9. Lubricate the window regulator with white lithium grease.
10. Reinstall the window regulator/motor assembly in the door.
11. Plug the electrical connector back on the window motor.
12. Reinstall the window glass. Insert the front edge first to make this easier. Reinstall the two bolts holding the glass to the window regulator.
13. Test the new motor by opening and closing the window to ensure that it is operating properly. If not, resolve the problem and continue.
14. Reinstall the plastic water shield.
15. Reconnect any electrical connections.
16. Reinstall the sound system speaker.
17. Reinstall the interior door panel. Remember to reconnect the power lock connector.
The job is complete. It took me 13 hours to complete the process. Before I started I did not know what was required to complete the job and I didn't have access to a Factory Service Manual. One hour was required to test the motor and the switch to determine which component failed. Two more hours were used in locating replacement rivets.
Since completing this repair I researched the price of power window motors and found that the Chevrolet dealership will be the most expensive place to buy this part. There are several other places on the web to buy remanufactured motors for much less than a new one costs. Also, there are companies that make replacement motors that are better quality than the OEM motor.
I replaced all 4 of my Cavalier windows! When one goes, the next 3 do as well. I used blue painters tape to hold up the window and I also got a 2 pack of window motors from EBAY for $50. I bought an assortment of nuts and bolts and cut them off so they wouldn't hit the door panel, instead of using rivets. Great explaination!
What is wrong if the electric window will not close on your Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0 GLi?
Switch Block on centre console Motor Hall Sensor
Disconnected the battery and found it will not wind up and down automatically? You reset this setting by holding the button down while it opens the window fully, followed by holding the button down while it closes it fully and it will remember the setting. Don't stop half way though - keep it pressed. Steve Marsh
How do you get the door panel off a '99 VW Passat to put the window back on track?
On the bottom of the door there are two bolts, you have to remove them. You'll need a small flat head to wedge between the panel and the door so you can release the clips, BE CAREFUL! These are easy to break. Once you get all the clips released you'll see that the door is still attached in the center, you need to use the small flathead to wedge in the interior handle, where you grip the door to pull it shut or push it open. It wont look like the center piece pops out, but I assure you it does. Once that piece is off, there are two more bolts to remove. Make sure you keep track of them. Silver are for the door handle, gold for the bottom bolts. Disconnect the speaker wire, and push up on the door panel. Be gentle because the power window and locks are still connected by a wire. Once the panel slips off, disconnect the lock and window wires. There ya go.
However, theres a pretty tricky little metal panel after the door panel. If you get it off let me know.
How do you fix an electric window that will not go up on a 1996 Honda Coupe?
It's most likely either the switch or the motor that is bad. The switch is cheaper... See if a service center at a dealership can hook up an OBD computer to your car to test the switch. If not, you have to start replacing parts and see which is bad. See if a salvage yard near you has these parts - it will save you a lot of cash.
Electric Windows generally, have a switch that operates a motor. The motor raises the or lowers the window using either a system of gears or a pulley system.
Where is the electric window relay?
There is no relay. Its all in the switch. The only way to check if its good, is to find the wiring diagram and check your powers and grounds. 9 times out of 10 if one window doesn't work and the rest do, its the motor. But if they all don't work, then its the switch. Also check the circuit breaker in the dash panel on the drivers side
Where are the fuses located for the power windows?
There is a driver side kick panel, it is a 4x4 square plastic cover that has an indent in it that you remove and its one of the fuse boxes of the car. It's all the way to the left of the brake pedal. Look in your manual near the back to see what fuse powers what.
Where can you go to have a window that has slipped off track fixed?
Call any auto glass repair shop - they should all be able to fix that for you.
Where is the power window relay located at on a 1991 Lincoln Town Car?
where is the relay switch located on 1995 town car for power windows
How do you replace the power window switch on 2002 trans am?
remove the side panel off the door and u can unscrew it from the inside,the easiest way is to buy the switches off eBay (more economical) and replace them then,, remember to plug everything back before u put the panel back because the panels of caprice classics are a lil complicated to put on and take off.. well to me.
Where is the fuse box on a 1998 dodge grand caravan?
the fuse box is under the hood on the right side in a little black box you have to pop the top off to get inside it No... that is the Power Distribution Center. The Fuse box is located under the driver side dash board near the parking break. There will be a panel that you need to remove, it has two large plastic screws holding it in place that can be easily turned with your finger nail.