Ford Escort LX

yes, a T3 super 60 size would be good for daily/stock engine up to about 275hp, then a TE04 50trim.

Follow the top radiator hose from the radiator . The hose connects to the

engine coolant thermostat / water outlet assembly bolted to the engine . The

engine thermostat is inside the housing

I'm answering my own question because I found the answer to it, and someone else may have the same problem. This escort is a 1991 escort pony and it must have had this problem for a while because someone else was driving it and it has 331,000 miles on it. I noticed one day sitting in traffic that the fan wasn't coming on and the "check coolant" light kept coming on, and previously had realized the temp gauge was not moving. I wasn't sure if it was a wiring problem, fuse, relay, or maybe the computer got a little wet when the heater core started leaking. The possibility of the sensors not getting a good ground also crossed my mind because over time some of the sensors that use a ground through some sort of temperature unit may corrode and lose continuity. I had read somewhere that the heater core had a sender unit near it, and I believed this by reading another blog, but I replaced the heater core looking for this connection and never found it realizing that that wasn't true. I finally got the car back together with the new heater core and ran the car and there was heat, but no fan or temperature gauge working as usual. I knew then that the cheapest way to possibly fix the problem may be to put try and replace the sender units behind the intake manifold next to the battery that are on the same coolant passage next to each other. I went to the auto parts store and it only cost me $24 for both of the sensors. I proceeded to change the sensors. I decided to change one at a time and see if that specific one changed anything. I replaced the larger one first with the "plug in", and I didn't get any change in the temp gauge, or the fan. I then decided to put the old larger "plug in" sensor back in and change the other smaller "one wire" one. I didn't get any change this time either. By doing this I was trying to figure out which one was the problem, and I also checked the resistance on the new "plug in" unit. I read somewhere the resistance cold on the larger "plug in" sensor should be 500 ohms. I checked the new unit cold and it was 30,000 or 30k ohms. The smaller "one wire" unit acts like a switch to my belief. I was about to give up and engineer a aftermarket temp gauge, and temp sensor for the fan relay. I decided to replace both units and when I started the car a miracle happened...!!!! The fan came on!! I still wasn't receiving a signal to the temperature gauge and the fan was staying on. I then believed that the computer may need to be reset. I took the negative battery cable off for about 30 seconds and reconnected it. I then restarted the car... When I restarted the car, the fan had cut off and the temp gauge was working!!!!! I left the car running to bring it up to temperature and when it approached the "hot" mark on the gauge, another miracle happened!!! I had the temperature gauge working and the fan working!!!!!! If you have the problems with your 1991 escort, it may be that both sensor units need replacing like mine.

get a ratchet with a spark plug socket. then get an extension for the ratchet. that should be all u need

7/9/08 You cannot use a straight socket/extension on the #1 spark plug on the mid-90's escort without loosening the alternator bracket 1st. You have to get one of those "wobble" sockets or "wobble" extensions to do the job without messing with the alternator. I have seen them at sears and the local northern tool store.

You don't say what year you have but locate the pcv valve somewhere on the valve cover. You will have to buy a new one at your parts store and replace it. You have the option of CLEANING it with Brake Kleen or carb/choke spray. Clean it until it rattles nicely. Wait for it to dry or dry it with compressed air and reinstall. They DONT always have to be replaced; periodic cleaning is the key. Remember, gum, varnish, dirt and especially carbon are an engines' worst enemy. The valve may not be in the valve cover if the engine is a 2.3L 4. It will then be between the back of the engine and the intake manifold in a hose going to the valve cover.

On my 95 Escort Wagon, the fuel filter is mounted to the firewall. It is centered left to right and it is lower than the engine so it is not readily apparent. It is the can type filter about 3" in diameter and about 3" long. It is held to the firewall by a clamp which has a 5/16" hex head which needs to be loosened to remove the filter after the nylon locks are removed from the fuel lines. Once the nylon locks are removed from the fuel lines and the clamp is loose, it is just a matter of pulling the filter out out of the fittings and putting the new filter in. Getting the locks into place is tricky but doable. If you buy the filter first, you can see what the locks look like as they are usually furnished with the filter. It is pretty easy to change except for the tightness of the working area. It took me about 15 minutes to replace it for the first time. Jim, (95 Escort wagon, same engine and tranny, 332,600 miles) If memory serves me, it is located on the firewall in the area below and close to the brake booster.

The instrument cluster itself is bad.

It is in the water housing outlet which the top radiator hose goes into. It looks like a spark plug with an electrical connection on it. It has 2. One goes to the fan switch and the other goes to the computer.

As far as i know it shares the brake resivoir. Follow your lines from the transmission back that would seem foolproof.

( No ) according to the Gates website ( they make timing belts etcetera )

the 1.9 liter four cylinder engine in a 1995 Ford Escort is NOT AN

INTERFERENCE ENGINE

For step by step guide to replacing the main fuse visit 2carpros.com/questions/1998-ford-escort-replace-100-amp-main-fuse

Trouble code P0705 means: Transmission Range Sensor Circuit (PRNDL Input)

It should be behind the engine, mounted on the firewall a foot down from the top just left (i facing the car) of center. It is very awkward to reach. you will need to discconect the battery (safety first, repressurize the systems (using a fuel system gage), pull out the retaining clip and disconnect top fuel line and let ti drain in to a container, raise the car, disconnect the bottom fuel line like the tip one(drain it also into something, unscrew the brachet that holds it in, replace it wiht a new one, connect the bottom line, lift the car and reconnect the top line, connect the battery, start and check for leaks.

Actually it is not left of center it is right of center if facing front of the car.

You can also remove the air intake housing and reach it from there if your arms are long enough. I watched the guys at Ford replace mine a couple of months ago!

Bank 2 is the drivers side of the engine in your Ford Explorer ( V6 or V8 )

Sensor 1 would be close to the engine before the exhaust enters the catalytic converter ( upstream sensor )

It is the engine speed curcuit that is malfunctioning. Replace the Crankshaft position sensor.

TAke it to the dealer. They will have to find out what turned it on in the first place. The bag will not work with the light on.

Front are 6.5" round and rear are 5x7" oval

It is on top of the transmission under the intake housing. Take the housing off to get to it. It is held into the transmission by a clamp bolt. Not hard to get off.

The 96 1.8L takes a Motorcraft AGSP-32C ,039-.043 Gap

The 96 1.9L takes a Motorcraft AGSF-34EE .054 Gap

On the door handle.

To reset the fuel cutoff switch you press down on the button.

Try this.

Look for a blue disc at the brake pedal assembly that may have broken and fallen out.

It's called a bumper and costs $3.20 at the dealer.

Just happened to me.

The air filter on a Ford Escort ZX2 is changed by opening the latches on the air handler box and lifting up the top cover. The old filter can then be removed and a new filter put in place.