GMC Suburban

I am not a mechanic so I cannot attest to having the right answer to your problem here.

However, since I just recently was suffering the same symptoms with my 99 K1500 that you are, I can tell you what the cause was in my case:

The problem was the 3rd & 4th gear pack clutches were completely trashed. In fact, when we took the 60 transmission out of the vehicle, there were more than 26 different components within it that were actually broken/cracked.

By the time my transmission guy completed the construction and installation of an Allison 80 (3/4 ton) tranny in the vehicle, I was out some $6K.

I hope this is not the case for you but from the sound of things, its not good.

Best of luck...

for all out horsepower the splayed valve Chevy head, or the sb2 or 18 degree after that

underhood drivers side in black box call fuse,relay center close to fire wall on fender.

Your vehicle has to be paid in full for you to have a clear title without a lien. If you haven't paid the sales tax, you may not have a clear title that you can sign off to the new owner.

Why yes there is...

I have this beast of a vehicle and just last fall had to replace the very item you are asking about.

It is in the fuel tank. Cost me about $300.00 for the pump and a few hours to lower the tank (empty it first!), R & R the pump and raise it back up in place.

You might also consider blowing out the fuel lines and then replacing the fuel filter as well.

I have the service manual for these vehicles. If you need more specifics, drop me a note, off line.

Regards!

because of transmission failure

Take the rear panel off ? Or just call 1800-54giant lol that is what I always do but on a serious not you can just search findzer or google or ad this to your igoogle so yo always have hte search at your disposal http://www.google.com/ig/adde?synd=open&source=ggyp&moduleurl=findzer.com/googlegadgets/000018.xml

The recommended weight of oil in an older GMC 454 engine is 5 W 30. This oil can be purchased at any auto parts store.

spanner is a tool used to provide grip on hexagonal or square tops to nuts and bolts to tighten them or to use to hold one top in place whilst turning another i.e. when tightening or slackening a nut and bolt

No you can not, It is under to much pressure when engine is running.

NEED to REPLACE IT.

There should be a drain plug on the lower driver's corner of the radiator. Needless to say, the engine should be cool before you do this.

Open the hood and you should see bolts that hold it down to the front end.

The likely place is at the orifice tube/screen. This is where the pressures change as well as the temperature. The location of this is not too familiar to me though. But if you follow the line that comes out of your condensing coil (radiator thing in the front) toward the firewall you should be able to see the connection where it goes. The older models put it right at the entry of the evaporator (cold coil) at the firewall. But some are at the front of the radiator immediately after coming out of the condenser. If there is a restriction it will be really cold. Like freezing. You can purchase a new screen for about .99 cents but you have to figure out what clogged it up. Something is going wrong that caused it. Whether it's your compressor or you accumulator/filter. This could lead to worse problems if you don't locate the cause.

not sure, but most of them have a orange wire and a blue wire run from under the brake booster, to the back. these are perfect for your trailer brake controller and break away power.

The Answer is Yes! The CV joints are connected to each of the front axles! (some SUVs and 4wd or AWD vehicles also have rear CV joints as they have rear axle shafts). These joints exist to allow each axle to pivot along with either the vehicles suspension and/or its steering axis. Each Axle has 2 CV joints, an inner (located at the end of the shaft closest to the front/rear differential and 1 outer joint located just behind the front/rear spindles on the inside of both front/rear inner wheel wells. They can be easily identified by a round tapered rubber black boot that houses the joints! Most commonly these rubber boots dry out and break overtime due to everyday driving! When this happens the bearing grease inside the boot gets ejected due to centrifugal force, in other cases the grease become old, thins out, and can no longer properly lubricate the bearings. The joints consist of large bearings and a bearing racer that holds the bearings in place and the joints come together via usually a snap ring! Whether in 2WD or 4WD the CV Joints at which these axle shafts are connected to are in constant motion with the vehicle. On my Suburban a 97' K1500, the 4WD system is activated by an actuator which pushes a rod to lock the ring gears inside the differential together, when I push the button to engage the 4WD. To Keep it simple the front/rear axles which again the CV joints are connected to,, are always in motion with the vehicle as the axles themselves are directly connected to the front/rear wheels! :) Hope that helps your question!

Its located in the fuel tank. You will have to drop the tank to replace. Dropping is easy. Putting it back in place is a two man job. Order the whole fuel pump asm because the lines and stuff will prob be rusted...its a while your in there..thing

back speakers not sure what size

hi my 2008 chevy suburban transfer case is blown and automaticly went from auto to low 4wheel drive any one know how to get it two 2 wheel drive the switch does nothing

The 1997-2005 Vortec 5700 engines are EFI, as opposed to the earlier mid-80's and up 5.7 which were TBI.

The starter relay on a 1999 GMC Suburban with the bib block engine is located on the solenoid for the starter. The solenoid for the starter is on top of the starter.

you take the old break pads off and put on the new ones

There isn't one.

i dont know on that specific van but i can give u my general knowldege if you can get under there and see the gas tank there may be a valve you can open other than that i would take the gas line off and open the gas cap. I just did this as I was changing the fuel pump. There is no drain valve, but simply get under the car, disconnect the fillerneck hose where it enters the gas tank (it's attached with a hose clamp), then use a hose and a pump to drain the tank. It's easier to do it this way as you won't have to fight the kinks and bends in the filler neck when trying to get the hose in.

Maybe part of the hazard warning module it is on my 2001 Impala

I am sure you have a v8 engine----if so the water pump weep hole will leak antifreeze and show up running down the lower rad hose on the water pump side ---of course there are other places antifreeze can leak at the front of the engine such as the water pump mounting gasket----the lower left (drivers side) p ump mounting bolt---as it enters the water jacket--- the timing caver gasket and the intake manifold gasket but the pump is the most likely place