0
GMC Vandura
The GMC Vandura, also marketed as the Chevy Van, was a full-size front-engine van manufactured by General Motors from 1971 to 1996. It was available as a 3-door van, 3+1 door wagon and 4-door van.
426 Questions
How do you install a starter in a GMC Vandura?
It's pretty easy, actually. Just replaced mine, took about a half hour total. Plenty of room underneath the van to work. You have two main bolts holding the starter in. Pull them both, disconnect the wires from the solendoid. Put the new motor in, making sure the splines mesh up. If fitted correctly, the bolts will go right back in easily. Turn key, you're good to go.
What is the difference between the vandura 1500 2500 and 3500?
1500=half ton 2500=3 quarter ton 3500=1 ton
I have a Vandura 2500, it means a half ton with a three quarter ton rating, stronger rear springs, lower rear end ratio,& bigger engine....
I do believe that the 1500 has a shorter body than the 2500 and 3500. Also engine sizes, I believe that the 1500 typically comes with a straight 6, the 2500 with a 350 v8 and the 3500 with either a 7.4v8 or a diesel.
*My 93' G2500 vandura has a 1 ton frame w/ 3/4 ton brakes.*
You may need to check the wiring in the system and replace the circuit that runs the wipers. You may also want to replace the arms and blades.
You need a scan tool to clear the code, which will turn off the SRS light. 95 vehicles have OBDII electronics, and require the tool to interface with it, but if the repair has not been made, the light will turn on again. The tools and software are expensive, but there may be a "generic" tool available through your local parts house (i.e. Shucks Auto Supply or whatever is in your area) that will read and erase the code for a reasonable price.
How do you depressurize a fuel system in a 1995 gmc vandura 2500?
Fuel pressure gauge hokked to port, gauge has a relief valve and hose to dump to a container.
Can try pulling fuse for fuel pum, turn engine over for a period long enough to relieve most but not all the pressure.
Where is the fuel pump for a 1995 gmc vandura 2500?
the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. drop the tank then remove the round lock ring on the top of the tank and pull it out. just watch the edge of the hole. IT'S SHARP!!
What size motor does a1993 GMC Vandura have?
*My 93' Vandura has a 5.7*
Where is the oil sensor on a 1988 gmc Vandura 2500?
Behind intake manifold from inside the van, in front of distrutor
Once wheel is removed, you should be able to "walk" the drum off by pulling on the right and left sides. If it feels like its on springs and wants to return to the installed position when pulled on, the shoes have worn into the drum. You will have to back the shoes off first. This is typically done through the hole in the backing plate. There should be a rubber plug about 1 inch by 3/8 inch, in the bottom of the backing plate. This is on the backside were the axle and backing plate are connected. Inside this hole is a "star" adjuster, but it has a tab that will only let it turn one direction, to adjust the brakes up as they wear. (This is done automatically) You will have to use a light , pear through the hole to get an idea of what your dealing with, push back on the tab, and turn the "star" adjuster in the opposite direction it normally travels. In my experience, GM usually puts the adjusting cam (tab) on top of the star wheel, which means you would turn the left hand side clockwise, and the right hand side counter clockwise. (CW and CCW as if you were sitting in drivers seat) If the drum is seized onto the axle, use a drift (punch) and hammer and rap sharply in between the wheel studs, NOT ON THE EDGES OF THE DRUM, and it should loosen Once wheel is removed, you should be able to "walk" the drum off by pulling on the right and left sides. If it feels like its on springs and wants to return to the installed position when pulled on, the shoes have worn into the drum. You will have to back the shoes off first. This is typically done through the hole in the backing plate. There should be a rubber plug about 1 inch by 3/8 inch, in the bottom of the backing plate. This is on the backside were the axle and backing plate are connected. Inside this hole is a "star" adjuster, but it has a tab that will only let it turn one direction, to adjust the brakes up as they wear. (This is done automatically) You will have to use a light , pear through the hole to get an idea of what your dealing with, push back on the tab, and turn the "star" adjuster in the opposite direction it normally travels. In my experience, GM usually puts the adjusting cam (tab) on top of the star wheel, which means you would turn the left hand side clockwise, and the right hand side counter clockwise. (CW and CCW as if you were sitting in drivers seat) If the drum is seized onto the axle, use a drift (punch) and hammer and rap sharply in between the wheel studs, NOT ON THE EDGES OF THE DRUM, and it should loosen
Why would a 1988 GMC Vandura 3500 jerk or stall during acceleration at random times?
It seems to happen more when the engine is hot. I can start it up cold and drive it for 30 miles with no problem. I will then let it sit for 10 minutes. When I start it back up and drive it again, it sputters and jerks every second for about 30 seconds, then drives fine for awhile, then jerks again.
I have replaced spark plug wires and plugs, timing belt. HELP!
AnswerMy van was doing the sputter thing all the time. I replaced plugs, cap, rotor, pcv valve and fuel filter (not pump). My fuel filter was on the passenger side about 2/3 back from front tucked up in a cavity.*It sounds exactly like a fuel pump* If it feels like it's running out of gas going up hill or the battery dies... it is a bad fuel pump+filter.
How do you remove the heater core from a 92 gmc vandura?
Before starting, note that on the side of the van to the right of the heater, there is a vent with a vacuum actuator. This thing gets in the way and it turned out mine didn't do anything, at least after the job. I don't think it ever did. Suggest you fire up your engine and play with the heater controls while you watch the vent and see if it works. If not, you might want to leave its actuator off when you put the heater back in.
I found a set of small 1/4 inch drive sockets with extensions and a screwdriver type driver most helpful.
Doghouse hatch
- On the doghouse hatch, 2 screws behind cigaret lighter door, two large screws at bottom front, lift cupholder part off.
- two bolts at bottom left & right, clamps on either side to remove doghouse cover
Move Dashboard
- disconnect battery
- 3 bolts under front edge on the right (10 mm), 4 on left side
- 3 screws in steering wheel undercover
- 7 screws top of dash near windshield
- 1 screw behind and below the radio
- remove 2 big bolts to allow the steering wheel to rotate down and let the dashboard move back a little.
- support right side up and back with a plank about 2 feet long
- take pictures of everything
- remove 4 bolts on extreme left and right of metal base that held the dashboard, lift it up an inch so black plastic duct under it can be pulled back slightly
- hoses to side window defroster vents: slip screwdriver into front of vent, pry out. Easy to twist hose off when vent is free.
- I was afraid to unhook the electrical cables going to the instrument panel, but I did unhook all the wires going to the radio, which allowed the instrument panel to move out a lot further on the heater side.
heater
- support bar in front - 2 bolts on right side, 2 on left from inside insulation of doghouse, 3 vacuum lines to actuators to remove and remember.
- bolt into firewall behind and below heater
- duct on left side of heater - 2 screws at top
- temp adjust cable going to right side of heater - I pulled the nut-like holder off and it went back on later with no trouble.
- large duct going over the doghouse hump has big 7/16" bolt in part coming out to driver's side
- try to remove duct on heater right side (one screw): top slides out of lip, rotate up high to get out past actuator for vent in side of van. Carefully remember how you did it; very hard to get back in. If you don't get it, it will come out with the heater.
Under the hood
- remove rad overflow tank, air cleaner inlet duct to make room to work
- undo the main hose to the bottom of the radiator to let a pail of coolant out.
- locate air conditioner parts, connected with metal pipes and LEAVE THEM ALONE.
- the large black plastic air conditioner evaporator between the heater fan at extreme left and the engine is also left in place, but the 3 nuts holding the heater to the firewall are located at the upper left, upper right and lower right of this evaporator.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o276/Delphi51/GM%20van/P1030641.jpg
The nuts were invisible on my van because they were covered with black silicone gunk. The lower right one is hard to reach, behind a big cylinder of the air conditioning system. I had to use a 7/16 open end wrench on it. Other two no problem with socket extension.
- inlet and outlet heater hoses in same location as lower right nut must be removed from heater end. Note location and orientation of clamps. The hoses connect to the vacuum controlled valve that lets water flow into the heater core hoses when heat is turned on, bypass it when not. This valve with its 4 hose connectors is located under the big AC cylinder, but it is held only by the hoses.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o276/Delphi51/GM%20van/P1030642.jpg
pull heater out
- Study the ducts still connected to the heater. I freed the big defrost on by lifting it up half an inch. The heater duct going over to the driver's side shifted left a half an inch with some encouragement.
- I had lots of trouble pulling the heater out because the threads of the 3 bolts going through to the engine side caught on the firewall. I had a helper push on them with a broom handle while I wiggled the heater.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o276/Delphi51/GM%20van/P1030654.jpg
- Just a few screws in the heater to open it and remove the core.
Reassembly
- Reverse the process!
- The duct on the right side of the heater was a huge problem for me. I gave up and decided I would kludge something together to replace it. My 82 year old mechanic friend came over and got it in in an hour. He said he just "lifted it up high". Had I known the vent on the outside wall didn't work, I would have taken its actuator off to leave lots of room for the duct.
- I had trouble with the hoses on the engine side. The lower hose to the heater core puckered or bent and wouldn't go on properly. No problem when I got a new piece of hose.
- Surprisingly little trouble getting the dashboard back in place.
- Shortly after the reassembly, coolant began leaking from the area of the vacuum controlled valve connected to the heater core hoses. I finally unhooked all 4 hoses and took the thing out. We plugged three of the openings with fingers, connected the bottom (inlet) to a water hose and when the valve was pushed open with a finger, water squirted out the tiny hole where the actuator push rod goes in. Ordered a new one, $25.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o276/Delphi51/GM%20van/P1030718.jpg
If the pictures don't show, email me harvey at softwarespirit.com.
What is the value of a 1993 GMC conversion van Vandura 179000 miles?
I recently paid 900 for mine. Quite a bit of rust and needed rear brake lines. But only had 130000 miles on it. Judging by what I saw by shopping I would say no more than 1500 unless it's pristine...
Get yourself to a transmission repair facility quick, that code means the transmission is on it's last legs.just had it happen to me, it means the torque convertor lockup controlled by brake system is screwed up!
Where is the fuel filter on a 1983 GMC Vandura?
The fuel filter is located in the fuel inlet on the front right side of the carb.
You will need a 1" open end wrench to hold the 1" side steady and a 5/8" flare nut open end wrench to remove the fuel line then use the 1" to undo the filter retaining housing to service the filter.
Use caution here as the steel fuel line is tough to manipulate for clearance with out bending it and can be a real bear to line back up "if you do bend it" and get the threads to start so you can re connect it...
Don't cross thread the filter retainer housing into the carb as the carb is made of soft metal or pot metal and is easily damaged and could cost you a new carb...
Good Luck
What is the average gas mileage for a 1991 gmc vandura 2500 with a v8?
I just drove from Ohio to Arizona with a 1989 GMC 2500 and averaged 15.5 mpg.
Where can you find the 'brake booster line' on a 1996 GMC Sierra?
The Brake Booster is mounted on the firewall and the master cylinder is mounted on the booster. Look at the booster and you will see a very large vacuum line coming from the booster.
How do you get help with fuse block identification on a 1983 GMC Vandura 2500 van?
You can get help with your 1983 GMC fuse block identification at most GMC dealerships. Many auto-parts stores can also help you with the fuse block identification.
What is the design gross vehicle weight of a 1991 gmc vandura?
It should be on your door jamb sticker.
How do you install air filter for 1989 GMC vandura?
I've found no other way but to remove the doghouse and get it from there, but check the breather filter while you have the thing apart and replace it too. If the filter is not that old you can reach in from the engine area and remove the cover and turn the filter a quarter turn instead of replacing
1991 GMC Vandura brake light stays on and has no back brakes?
I'll bet if you look in the rear fluid container it'll be empty - it either popped the lid and spilled or you have a leak in the line/master cycl or somewhere along the caliper - fill it back with fluid and pump the brakes a few times and see if there's any leaks
How do you change a fuel pump in a 1990 GMC vandura 2500?
pull the fuel tank off and then pull the pump out. Hardest part of this job is draining all of the fuel from the tank. Tank only weighs about 15lbs when empty dont need any special tools or jacks to do the job.
Most likely you have a serpentine belt, one continuous belt that drives the alternator, power steering, air conditioner compressor and there shoudl be one more pulley. It is usually the smallest pulley, it is called an idler pulley. It is spring loaded. You need to get a ratchet, and an extension, usually 3/8 drive and put the end of the extension into the front of the idler pulley and either push or pull to take tension off the spring. This will allow you to slip the belt off the alternator pulley. The slack will be very minimal. Once you get your alternator back on you will once again tak ethe tension off, loop the belt over the pulley on the alternator and then let the idler pulley take the tension up on th ebelt making it tight. If the serpentine belt falls off all the pulleys, you need to route the belt back onto each oulley in the designated manner. If you DO NOT see a belt diagrahm on the front radiator support, then make a drawing for yourself so you know how th ebelt loops over each pulley. Both sides of serpentine belt touch pulleys so the belt is not like old v belts that can only go one way.
