GMC Vandura

It takes one O2 sensor available at any parts store. There is a special tool that has a slot so you can remove the sensor and replace with the new. There is a factory connector. 5 minute job. Sensor sits on top of pipe just ahead of catalytic converter.

Go to kbb.com and click on used vehicles.

I would check to see if there is any Vacuum hoses on the transmission.

On GM Trucks/ Vans there is a small pod on the side of the transmission that has a vacuum hose to assist in shifting esp for getting into the passing gear on the highway these hoses often break making a vacuum leak to the engine that would also make your engine race or idle too fast would be a better term. It will be obvious when you crawl under the van look on the side of the transmission around the pan depending on what type of transmission it is it could be in different locations. there are different automatic transmissions GM uses.

Look for a small round tin thing Called the Vacuum Modulator link below is a photo of a couple http://spacecoastfieros.com/tech/440-4T60/Modulator.jpg that is threaded into the transmission or bolted. if that hose is not broken at that end follow the hose up to the engine see if it has broken up there or it may have just come off for what ever reason.

That would be my guess and the first thing I would look for.

Hope that helps

If that isn't the problem then it could be something else possibly electronic if it is EFI. alternator wire disconnected could make engine idle fast on EFI.

my 1992 vandura 6.2 diesel short bus weighs 10,000 lbs

Evacuate the refrigerate, remove the belt, disconnect the AC lines with fuel line separators, unbolt the compressor.

Have the same problem. We found if you move the bed all the way forward, then while pushing the up button apply some upward pressure where the seat backs fold (roughly the middle of the bed) may or may not require two people.

With the 5.7 engine, group size 34/78 800 CCA.

350 5.7l are most common 305 5l is the best engine to be equiped with the g serise vans

On my 1994 Thunderbird, it's inside the left fender. I had to remove the splash shield to get to it. The 1991 is probably the same since all Thunderbirds from 1989 to 1997 used the same body platform.

crack in the electronic coil ,when it gets hot it will expand and ark and kill the engine

Do a vin number check and it will tell you i think its 6001-7000LBS hydrulic beaking system

this is for 5.7L with no AC

i did it by my self when the mechanic asked me $600 i decided to replace it by my self:

- you have to remove all screws and bolts from dashboard

-shift the transmission shifter all the way down and push the right side of the dash little up. i used a stick to hold it up.

-look under the dash at the passenger side you must be able to see a black plastic box ( unscrew the plastic black hoses going out from it and be careful ( i broke mine)

-now open the hood at the same side you will see the blower box unscrew it and open it you will see some screws holding the black box (heater core). unscrew them

-you will see the two hoses going to the heater unscrew them you may need a cutter to cut them.

- go back inside the van and you must be able to pull the black plastic box. unhook the two wires who controls the cold/ hot air

- when you have the plastic box out unscrew all bolts and open it.

you will find the leaky heater inside. take it out (easy and stick the new one.

now put every thing back :)

you need some black silicon to seal the blower fan under the hood.

in my case iwhen i unscrewed all screws from he fire wall(under the hood) i was still unable to pull the heater from inside . then i found that there is another two screws holding it. so you must find them all.

nothing really hard in the process you could have to remove the plastic pipes inside the dash (the pips which the airs moves in them)

hope this will help some one.

This takes time, patience and usually causes a lot of swearing. If you look on the passenger side below the dash there is a black curved box, the heater core is in there so that whole black box must be removed ....

Removing it involves removing all the screws holding the dash molding down, you have to remove the dash support bar on the passenger side, disconnect all the ducts and disconnect the hoses from under the hood (there are two and they are just below the AC system and go to the firewall.) Since the heater core uses engine coolant it's best to drain the radiator first (perfect time to do a flush as well!). You might also need a gentle application of force with a pry bar to get it out.

All in all, swapping the core in the black box takes about 5-10 minutes, getting the box in and out of the vehicle takes hours.

I have an 89 G 20 and the computer is under the drivers seat. Try following the big bunch of wires at the back of the engine and see if they go there. My 1984 G20 has it under the driver's seat. 1983 may be the same.

The doghouse is awkward and clunky to remove but what you need to do is there are two 1/2 inch bolts bolting it to the floor, remove them and then there are two snap closures on each side that are levers that hold the doghouse to the firewall. Unsnap them.

Then open the door that has the ashtray and lighter and you will see two screws holding that in. Unscrew the Phillips screws and then pull this back slightly so you can unhook the cigarrette lighter wiring.

Slide the doghouse back slightly and then twist your drivers side chair to the side and move it back and the passanger one back as well if you can and I usually lift the bottom of the doghouse up and squeeze it out of the way of the seats etc.

Experiment as it's not easy but it will come out.

the dog house comes off in two parts, the first is the console, this is held on by 4 bolts (philips number 3), two in the ash tray compartment at the top (it you open the ash tray door half way you can see them at the top) and two at the bottom which should be easy to see. Once you have this free you will have to disconnect the cigarette lighter and maybe a light. The second part is the dog house itself, this is held on by 2 bolts (either 1/2 or 9/16) on the floor, one by each front seat (you might have to pull back the carpeting to see them) and two clamps that are near the top and clamp to posts under the dash.

Keep in mind that due to the heat the rubber seal on the dog house might be a stuck to the body and require some force to pull it free

After doing this, we had to remove the front passenger seat, which takes one person to hold a socket on a ratchet on the bolt under the seat (or a wrench) while someone underneath the van does the same on the bottom of the bolt; one of you turns the bold while the other holds the bolt still, or you both turn it in opposite directions until the bolt comes out! WHAT A PAIN!

I had this same problem and I agree-removing the seat to get the doghouse out is a major pain. When you put the seat back in install it in the bolt holes that recess the seat in the farthest back position it will allow. The seat will be closer to the seat behind it (but not overly close) but you will be able to remove the dog house without taking out the seat (it still takes a bit of jostling, but not too bad). As a plus, the front passenger gains extra leg room!

Follow the upper rad hose from the rad back to the engine. The part the Hose connects to on the engine is the thermostat housing. Remove it and the thermostat will be in there.

There should be a lever/latch on the bottom of the seat near the rear of the seat. You simply flip the switch to the far left and push the seat forward and unlatch.

Remember to release the safety belt latch as well. The seat will not come out that way. There are four 1/2" nuts that when you remove allows you to lift the seat free. But this still leaves a metal mounting plate. It appears to be riveted, but there is a "quick release" spring pin mechanism. Is there a way to get that mounting plate off? Does it have to do with the quick release?

Yes

4L80E is in most vanduras of one ton 2500 and below is 4L60E

Where is fuel filter

On my 1989 it is attached to the inside of the frame just behind the rear axle, I think it's on the passenger side. It's a brass cylinder about the size of your hand and pretty easy to get at and remove.

you don't you actually have to remove the dash and they are screwed in from underneath so its a pain in the @#% i took mine out and cut bigger holes in the dash for 6x9s good luck i hope this helps

Autozone online.