Honda Accord EX

oil change is quite easy. first you need to raise your vehicle enough so you can get under it. I recommend using Jack stands for support, as jacks can sometimes fail while under load. under the vehicle there will be a large black metal pan with a bolt in the lower portion of it, faceing the rear of the vehicle. this is your oil drain plug. it uses a 14mm socket or wrench to loosen. place a catch pan under the plug and remove the plug slowly. the oil will come out with a bit of force, so position the catch pan accordingly. once the oil has come to a drip, replace the plug and tighten. If you have raised the vehicle high enough you should beable to reach the oil filter from underneith, if not you will have to go through the passanger side wheel well, and will probably have to remove the passanger tire. the oil filter is located on the back of the engine block on the passanger side, just above the drive axle. use of a oil filter band wrench, large pliers or channel locks my be necessary to losen the filter, depending on how tight the seal is. once the filter is off, check to make sure the oil filter seal is still on the oil filter! sometimes the seal will stick to the engine block, and the user will unknowingly install the new filter ontop of the old gasket. make sure the mounting plate is clean of any debris before installing a new oil filter. your most common oil filter will be a Fram PH3614. screw the oil filter on until hand tight, and give 1/4 of a turn to tighten fully. lower the car and remove the oil cap. the engine calls for 4.0 Qts of oil with a filter change. add the oil to the vehicle, replace the oil cap, start the engine and check under the car for any drips or leaks. if all is clear, turn engine off, check the oil dipstick for fullness and your done.

The 2004 Honda Accord has a 2.4 L base engine size.

No, you do not as the computer does it, provided you install the correct one.

this guide is for replacing the clutch in a 1988 Honda accord dx. lx may vary.

also this is removing the tranny via the bottom not through the top.

first of course take out the battery of course. also dis connect the coil distributor wire. wont have an accidetal start then. raise it up so it is both front tires off the ground block the wheels and e brake and put it in reverse.

next take off the tires. then the rotors both sides at once if u can. have some one help u. calipers too. now it gets tricky and difficult. take off the hub nuts. way more difficult then it sounds . was for me. then u have to unbolt the arm coming to the axle or w/e its callled. [the rotor sits on that part] the take the pin out of the bolt on the very bottom. [name unsure] make sure not to lose anything! take the bolt from the fork out. and also the steering bar unscrew that without moving the bolt tooo much. just crack it, and the clamp on the boot take it off too and the the bar should move takes a 12mm wrench [small is better][remember its all metric and mostly 14mm 12mm 10mm and 17mm, more random sizes. not bad overall] now u need to take out both axles very difficult but its alright getting them in. get that brake line out of the way as well. [redo your brake after this, bleed adjust] and not u need to take out your starter.[two mounting bolts not the long skinny ones!!!!!!] now that u did that u can more easily reach the transmission/motor mounts. now loosen all of the bolts holding the transmission on and there is a few brackets u will need to take off. do not drop the tranny!!!!!! there is more to do first. there is ur clutch cable that needs to be taken off and ur speedometer cable as well clutch cable is on the front and speedometer is in the back. there is also 2 hoses that may be quiet difficult to take off. right next to the speedometer cable. leave one braket on the back of the tranny so u can tie a rope or something to it. now completely remove the tranmission u can now wiggle it off and lower it to the ground. its not heavy if u drained it. now u can move it off to the side and see your pressure plat clutch and part of your *FLYWHEEL. your ready to remove the pressure plate and clutch. check your tranny and clean out the inside of the bell housing. brake cleaner works great. have fun putting it back toegether....

hints:

flywheel spec for 1988 Honda accord is somthing like .615 check yours at autopart store. may need resurfaced it cost 35$ for me.

the clutch will not work when put all the way back toegether u need to lift the throw out bearing arm until it resists u and tighten your clutch cable accordingly.

u can now drive it. if u know anything about vaccums hit me up. my car wont idle now.

Transmission fluid is low, dirty filter, leaking seals, sticking accumulator, etc.

if you have a leak in your transmition the best thing to do is NOT TO DRIVE THE CAR transmition damage may occur meaning $$$$$$$$. if you MUST move the car try adding more fluid. and since its leaking you may need to stop and add more very frequently. on the other hand try to see from where the leak is coming from it could be thru one of the transmition fluid cooling lines that may be loose or corroded that can easily be fix.

Yes, it should work perfectly.

they have the same 3.0L engine, but not sure if US build or Jp build has any different.

Hello, Yesterday i drove nicely to work but later in the day when i start my car there is no spark ?? i tested it in all possible ways but there way no spark jezzanyways, i did change to new spark plugs, plus i have new wires (4 months old) and same with distributor cap...and there no engine light tht shows up. now i m not sure if my car wont crank because of bad coil? ignition starter or distributor??if so, can u show me any diagram to change it.

my car is 1993 Honda civic coupe DX 1.5Lit. Please help any feedback is appreciated.

cheers____________

Use a Mechanic

It most often means you need to change the oil and filter. Referred to your owners manual for the maintenance schedule of what needs to be done at the mileage on your vehicle now.

This just isn't something that you want to do. Remove engine shroud, grill, bumper on the side that you're working on, inner fender fasteners - then you can get to the 4 bolts that hold the headlight assembly in. Did it yesterday - won't do it again. 5 hours :-(

The main relay will give an check engine light to indicate that the electrical system is bad.

'I have been through this on my 94 Altima, and let me warn you, it's not a walk in the park by any stretch of the imagination. The PCV valve is located beneath the intake manifold on the right (passenger) side. It threads into the breather separator and points toward the center of the car. To remove it, you'll have to remove the Idle Air Control valve located on the end of the manifold log. Be aware that you'll have to do at least part of this task underneath the car, and that the IAC valve has antifreeze circulating through it (I found this out the HARD way!!!!!). It also might help to unbolt the breather separator from the head. If you can afford it, pay a mechanic if it really needs to be done.

I've just started this process and I was OK until I got to the part where you separate the hub assembly and rotor from the steering Knuckle. I've removed all four bolts but can't separate the two.

There are step by step instructions at AutoZone.com

2004

The 2008 Honda Accord runs on regular unleaded.

How many lugs are on a 1998 accord?

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The airbag (SRS) light is on because there is a problem with the system. Due to the fact that working on this system can be hazardous I recommend you have it repaired by a professional. He will reset the light once the system is repaired.

The 2003 Honda Accord has a 2.4 L base engine size.

Fuel tank. Access panel in trunk. Early 80's Accords have an electric in-line fuel pump mounted just forward of the left-rear wheel. The pump is mounted atop a plate that is probably rusted in place(if not through) by now. A rubber boot helps to protect the fittings. If you replace the pump, also replace the steel fuel line going to it, as these tend to rust through.

If you mean a different weight then you're not very wise. Use the exact weight oil that Honda recommends. If you are referring to the brand of oil, you do not have to use Honda oil. In fact Honda does not even make oil their oil is refined by another company. You can use any major brand oil of your choice, as long as it is the correct weight.

THE O2 SENDOR JUST SCREWS OFF THE SIDE OFF THE MANIFOLD, THEN YOU JUST UNPLUG IT. JOSE

some wobble is ok.

Coolant is added to the overflow bottle instead of the radiator. The overflow bottle will allow fluid to fill over into the radiator.