Hyundai Accent

I as yourself have spent to long looking for the answer for this question but has finaly found it! Below is what every colour wire does...

1995-97 Hyundai Accent Stereo Information

Constant 12V+ Red/Yellow Switched 12V+ Blue/White Ground Black Front Speakers 5 1/4" Doors Left Front (+) White/Red Left Front (-) Black/Red Right Front (+) White/Blue Right Front (-) Black/Blue Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck Left Rear (+) White/Red Left Rear (-) Black/Red Right Rear (+) White/Blue Right Rear (-) Black/Blue

-Starball

32mm

The cams need to be lined up at their respective marks also, if this was done then look for loose connections, bad plugs, clogged pcv, or possible damage to the engine when the other belt broke. Normally after you put back the timing belt, you have to check or adjust the ignition timing. If timing is not right a rough idle is the cause.

Spray in dry graphite and work the key until it loosens up the lock (unless you have already sprayed in a liquid lube like WD40 which will only gum it up more)

If you've already made this mistake, try spraying a little brake cleaner in the keyhole to clean off the WD40, then try the graphite WD40 is not a lubricant, WD40 was invented as a WATER DISPERSANT henc WD, 40 represents the 40th attempt. WD40.

no

The 2006 Hyundai Accent has a 1.6 L base engine size.

Regarding removal of the Accent door panel: After removal of the four obvious Phillips screws securing the door panel to the door (located two at the bottom and two at the front just below the adjustment for the side mirror), remove the window crank handle ( in this case the "C" clip is located BETWEEN the handle and the spacer and usually oriented so the clip opening is in line with the knob), remove the screw securing the interior door handlde, remove the screw securing the door release (and power locks if equiped) the GENTLY pull the door panel, starting at the front then moving in a clockwise direction, to the rear which will have four plastic clips securing the panel at the rear. These need to be pulled out of their respective holes ( a special tool is available but not necessarily required). Once this is done lift the panel vertically to free the inner window seal. .

A good way to remove the C-clip is to slide a towel in between the spacer and the window crank and work it upwards until the clip comes off.

The 2002 Hyundai Accent has a 8 ft. 0.1 in. (96.1 in.) wheel base.

It is under the dash/steering wheel next to the brake pedal, make sure you disconnect the battery before replacing.

Check in the Machinery's Handbook 17'th edition on page 1191 through 1193 for a description of all the metric threads as agreed to by the international congress for thread standardization at zurich in 1898.

where is the catalytic converter on 2000 hyundai accent gl

The 2010 Hyundai Accent has a 1.6 L base engine size.

114.3

3rd gen are 4 X 100 with 34 to 42 mm offset. They use a 12X 1.5 lug. It is the older, pre-2000, models that use 4 X 114.3.

The answer is very subjective to your car. I have a pretty new car and it goes easily for 20 miles, if you don't use air conditioning.

I had the same problem. I don't know alot about cars so I looked at my brothers car. I followed the cord that looked crinkled the best way i can describe it. It is connected to the engine I found it at the very front on the passangers side tucked awa at the headlight. I hope this helps Ihave a 2000 accent GS

Hyundai has its service manuals on line HERE Click on the Shop tab, enter your car's information and search away. Direct link to your question Also check out this forum There are a lot of DIYers and tuners that do a lot of work on their own cars. Since the last person's link didn't work, according to Haynes, it's Mopar ATF Plus Type 7176 automatic transmission fluid (6.8 quarts)

By law, this must be done by an ASE certified tech in an EPA certified shop which has the equipment to properly recover, store, and recycle refrigerant. Additionally, since removing the compressor opens up the AC system, the receiver-drier (if it's a Thermal Expansion Valve unit) or accumulator (if it's a Fixed Orifice Tube unit) will need to be replaced, as well.

http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/accent-excel-s-coupe/65210-block-heater-location.html

P0133 is a trouble code for o2 sensor, what it means is 02 sensor slow response bank1, sensor 1 (before cat) should be located before the flex pipe. What causes this code is that there are many reasons, one could be a faulty sensor, a bad exhaust leak or minor usually happens if the leak is before the sensor depending on which leak is greater. vacuum leak can cause this code due to not enough oxygen entering the exhaust manifold. check with the dealer or local garage, it is very hard to actually state which problem is causing this code.

Mine was coming on due to a massive exhaust leak, when fixed the code disappeared.

Open the bonnet and face the car. Look straight down behind the radiator and find the front engine mounting bracket. Just above that and slightly to the right is a is a lever that moves left/right with a boot on it. This will move when someone presses the clutch whilst sat in the car to help you identify it.

When you have identified this moving lever, look to where the lever disappears into the body of the engine and just above it will be a small nipple, normally covered by a rubber cap.

Remove this cap and follow the instructions for bleeding the clutch (loosen valve a half turn, have a friend GENTLY push the clutch in until fluid comes out and re-tighten valve. Take care - it can spurt!).

The EPA mileage estimate for the 2014 Hyundai Accent is 27 mpg in the city, 38 mpg on the highway.

did you try to put in another horn yet?, if not try that

I'll bet you have a clogged fuel filter. You sucked up all the gunk from the bottom of the tank. It's happened to me. They're cheep to buy and easy to install.