Jeep Cherokee

If you have to ask you probably do not have the tools and experience required for the job.

Raise the Jeep on jack stands, remove the tires, brake lines, drive shaft, shock absorber lower nuts, and u-bolts. Remove the axle.

When any vehicle has black smoke coming from the tail pipe it normally means it is not burning gas properly. and it could be burning oil check your oil if it is black you are burning oil. and you probably have an oil leak Black smoke means that you're getting too much fuel to the cylinders. You may have a bad injector. If you're burning oil, then the smoke would be white (indicating worn rings or valve guides).

The Haynes Jeep Cherokee 1984 - 1996 book has 7 different diagrams which show how to do that repair.

There is a 15mm. bolt (long bolt) that adjusts the tension of the serpentine belt. It is in the area of the power steering pump, just left and down. Either draw a map, or look on the front of the engine compartment to see how the belt is routed around the pulleys.

ATF+4 but Mercon Dexron is fine

Use ATF+4 only. Dextron will cause shifting issues.

This site may save you over $200 and does discuss removal and reinstallation of the switch. It's probably a good idea to get a Chilton's guide as well.

The power steering pump is located on the front of the engine. The uppermost pump connected to the serpentine belt.

If the problem is lack of heat, the most common failure on this model is the blend door. Check the HeaterTreater web site for diagnostic information.

If the problem is lack of control over the switch between defrost/vent/floor vents, this is a vacuum controlled mode door and the problem is usually a vacuum leak somewhere in the system.

Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, the ignition coil, Air Filter, Fuel Filter

Check the resistor pack on or near the fan , it may have melted and needs to be replaced.

It's above your left foot when you are sitting down on the drivers side

I understand the relay is in back of the passenger side headlight. You have to remove the assembly and drill 5/8 holes to remove the bolts, or remove the bumper to get to it. Just found this answer on line. I too have the same problem.

It could be your serpentine belt, thermostat or water pump.

You have to remove the cylinder head to access the lifters.

Just did it this weekend. Auto Zone has pretty good basic online instructions/diagrams. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the radiator (I didn't personally but most of the liquid was already spilt out or burned off.) Remove the power steering pump bracket on the front driver's side of the vehicle. There are two bolts in the back and a couple on the bottom that are hard to see (in addition to the obvious ones) that need to be removed to get the pump/bracket off. Also, there is one behind the steering pump, in the middle of the bracket that holds the bracket on and that one needs to be removed too. You may need to disconnect one or two radiator hoses if they are in your way. You'll need to remove the serpentine belt from the pump. Remove the extra fan (the one on the driver's side by the steering pump, NOT the main fan. Now you should be able to access the bottom radiator hose which you need to disconnect. Remove the four bolts that connect the pulley to the pump, I had a heck of a time with this one since the pulley moves and the bolts were in there way tight. It took lots of WD-40 and patience. You can try holding one bolt with a vice grip while turning a second with your ratchet. Personally, I had to push a screwdriver down into it to keep it from turning since the two wrench thing didn't work for me. (It might be easier to remove the pulley bolts with the belt still on if you can get to them that way- more resistance) Once the pulley is off you can remove the remaining water pump screws and then disconnect the metal hose screwed into the top of the pump. Scrape off any gasket residue, add a new gasket and reconnect everything in reverse order.

Connected to the bottom of the radiator you will see 2 lines. One is the inlet and one is the outlet. The cooler line is the return (outlet) line.

You need to remove the starter to get to all the bolts on the oil pan. You may also need to jack the jeep up by the frame a few inches and place jack stands there to let the front axle droop. Should give you plenty of clearance. Use small cotter pins to hold the gasket in place and 4 threaded dowels to guide the pan. Just remember to pull the pins before you tighten the pan down.

black smoke is unburned fuel have car computer scanned a cylinder miss a bad sensor, anyway you are overheating your catalytic converters could cause more damage to engine fix it get codes from pcm g

under the dash on the right side there is a cover over it pull the glove box it might help

the crank shaft sensor is located on the back of the engine on left side above the fly wheel. hope that helps im doing the same thing and this is a comon problem with jeeps. only about 85 bucks to replace it.

Your rear windshield wiper uses the same reservoir that your front wipers use. It is under the hood on the right hand side. Good luck.

There are four ways to find a ratio.

1 A dealer can normally tell from the vin number.

2 There are normally tags or labels on the axle that have part number, gear ratio, and fluid requirement

info.

3 You can count how many times you have to turn the driveshaft to get one complete turn of the tires.

4 You can count the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide by number of teeth on the pinion.

It should be on the smaller diameter of the 2 lines. On a 97-98 it is right above the plastic coolant tank.

Approx 1 - 2 quarts

The military needed a light-weight rugged reconnaissance vehicle for the war. American Bantam produced the first 'jeep' prototypes (Bantam No1 and BRC40). However the torque specs did not fall into the military's requirement. Willys overland produced a prototype that met all of the requirements. Willys Overland had limited resources and had to share the contract with the Ford Motor company. Ford Jeeps were designated GPW's G- for Government P- for 80inch wheelbase and W- for using the Willys Overland Design.

Willys continued building civilian jeeps (as well as military jeeps) after WWII. The first civilian model was the CJ-2A