Jeep CJ

The bigger frame motor mount of the 1978 CJ5 V8 goes on the driver's side. This side typically accommodates the larger mount due to the engine's weight distribution and the layout of the engine components. It's important to ensure proper alignment during installation for optimal performance.

To unlock a Jeep CJ7 glove box, you can try using a slim jim or similar tool to manipulate the locking mechanism through any gaps. Alternatively, if you have the key or can access the lock cylinder, you might be able to replace the lock or pick it. If those options fail, you may need to carefully remove the glove box door from its hinges or cut through the lock if necessary. Always consider the potential for damage to the vehicle when attempting these methods.

Yes, a Jeep YJ drivetrain can fit into a CJ7, but modifications are often required due to differences in the mounting points, transmission, and axle configurations. The YJ has a more modern design, which may necessitate custom fabrication for proper installation. Additionally, compatibility with the CJ7's existing components, such as the transfer case and driveshafts, should be considered. Overall, while it is possible, the swap can be complex and may require significant adjustments.

To hook up two 12-volt lights to a 24-volt system, connect the lights in series. This means connecting the positive terminal of the first light to the negative terminal of the second light, and then connecting the remaining terminals to the 24-volt power source. This configuration will ensure that each light receives the necessary 12 volts, as they will share the total voltage from the power source. Always ensure that the lights are rated for use with the appropriate voltage to avoid damage.

A Chevy power steering system can potentially be adapted to fit a 1975 Jeep CJ5, but it requires custom modifications. The steering components, such as the pump, box, and mounting brackets, will need to be compatible or modified to work with the CJ5's existing setup. Additionally, ensure that the steering geometry and linkages are properly aligned for safe operation. It's advisable to consult with a professional or a Jeep enthusiast for specific guidance on the conversion.

It depends on what you want to do with the batteries. They can be connected in series to give you a total of 12 VDC. In a series connection a jumper is required between battery one's negative post to battery number two's positive post. If you want to increase the amp hours delivered at 6VDC they can be connected in parallel. In a parallel connection two jumpers are required. Battery one's negative post to battery two's negative post. Likewise the same procedure with the positive posts.

The AMC 258 engine weighs approximately 550-600 pounds, depending on factors such as accessories and components attached to the engine.

almost all of the cj5`s had no tailgates and had permanant spare tire mounts. if you do have one either it was special ordered or someone did it later. that`s the difference with the 5 &7.the 7 was a little longer and had the tailgate with the swingaway spare tire mount. Actually the "FIXED BACK PANEL/RR SP WHL MOUNT" was a $12 option in 1978. I have the factory window sticker for a 1978 CJ-5 listing it. The 1978 Jeep sales brochure lists it under "Options and Accessories" as "fixed back panel and spare mount (CJ-5)".

There is an adjustment nut on the valve rockers underneath the valve covers

remove valve covers, and spark plugs, do one cylinder at a time, turn engine over by hand until top valve is completely pushed open, you can now adjust the lower"closed" valve, use a 13mm wrench and #30 torx, loosen jam nut use torx driver and set valve to .004 thousands with feeler guage, hold adjuster in place and tighten jam nut. recheck clearance, then rotate engine till lower valve opens completely and adjust top valve the same way, repeat on other cylinder, there is a good video on youtube or go to www.smalleng

you can just check it properly... (on every battery volt is surely given...)

The all do not have a unitized construction. The Jeep Wrangler is body on frame. The reason manufactures went to unitized construction is lower cost.

The only jeep that had a unibody was the small Cherokee and that had sub frame assemblies mot true unibody. EVERY other jeep has full frames.

Your owner's manual should have a layout for you to follow for the fuse location. Another thing to consider with backup lights is the neutral safety switch. My backup lights in my 96 classic started acting funny then stopped working, it ended up being the neutral safety switch.

Number 7 and 23 operate the lights, check them both, back up lights are not labeled.

It is on the same circuit as the brake lights, but if they are not working, and the bulbs are good your switch needs cleaning or adjustment.

Attempt this first since the switch costs nearly $300 bucks.

On the passengers side of the trans there is a fan shaped switch, loosen the 12mm bolt ( smaller of the two, and rotate the switch while a friend checks the lights. this problem is usually accompanied by an occasional inability to start the vehicle, but can be cured by jiggling the shifter.

While adjusting the switch make sure that the vehicle will start in park as well, remember to block the wheels while testing the back up lights, engine off, key in run but not start, shifter in reverse, move switch until lights come on.

Once you find this spot, hold it in place and have your helper check to make sure it will start. This may take several tries to get both working correctly.

If you have no luck the switch may be dirty, this happens a lot. Hold the post to the bottom large bolt still while you loosen the nut, then remove it, then remove the 12mm adjusting bolt on top, remove the wire connector and pull the switch away, remove the bolts on the switch and separate the halves, use electrical contact cleaner and maybe some q-tips to clean all the copper connections completely and reassemble, refit to the trans and readjust so all functions work, this switch controls back up and start safety.

Caution! always hold that bottom bolt while tightening the large nut, this is connected to the gear adjuster and you could damage the internals if it isn't secured while you do it.

Start bleeding off air from the futhest point away from the brake master cylinder and work towards the front wheels...if this does not help jack up the rear of the vehical and bleed again as air rises

Mine was appraised at $3700.00 wholesale and $4500.00 retail. Condition original ,body solid, paint fair. But a lot depends on what state you are in and the local market demand

It depends on what the 7th digit in your vin number is. If it is a "R" then your weight is about 4,750lbs. If the digit is a "S" then your weight is 4,500lbs. Or if your 7th digit is a "T" then your weight will be 3,750lbs. I got this information off of http://www.jeep-l.net/info_jeep/jeep_vin.htm

All things I've read show that up until 75 it should have a D44's

Dana 30 in front Dana 44 in rear,good axles!

No! You would damage it beyond repair.

a diagram of a jeep cj-7 steering column

all tops from 1978 cj7 to 1995 yj fit

3.6870894 × 10-6 m6

no fuse check ground or fusible link

Possibilities: vacuum leak egr valve or pcv valve air filter fuel pump carb. head gasket timing chain/gears worn camshaft lobes ignition module [maybe some more... good luck.]

visit autozone.com it should give detailed instructions