Jeep Grand Cherokee

maybe you hit the child safety lock its a little flip switch on the door itself were the latch is. You need to take the door trim off and check, the connecting rod from the latch to the lock. The dealer told me I needed a new lock and all I needed was to adjust the conector on the rod. That conector will slip. After I got it adjusted I glued it with some silocone. #########

TRY PUSHING IN ON THE LID THEN PULL LEVER AND LID UP..IT JUST NEEDS PRESSURE RELIVED BEFORE IT WILL OPEN..

Deactivating/activating the belt minder feature

Read steps 1 - 9 thoroughly before proceeding with the

deactivation/activation programming procedure.

The Belt Minder feature can be deactivated/activated by performing the

following procedure:

Before following the procedure, make sure that:

² the parking brake is set

² the gearshift is in P (Park) (automatic transmission).

² the ignition switch is in the OFF position

² all vehicle doors are closed

² the driver's safety belt is unbuckled

² the parklamps/headlamps are in OFF position (If vehicle is equipped

with Autolamps, this will not affect the procedure.)

To reduce the risk of injury, do not deactivate/activate the Belt

Minder feature while driving the vehicle.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN (or ON) position. (DO NOT

START THE ENGINE)

2. Wait until the safety belt warning light turns off. (Approximately 1

minute)

² Steps 3--5 must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure will

have to be repeated.

3. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the

safety belt unbuckled. This can be done before or during Belt Minder

warning activation.

4. Turn on the parklamps/headlamps, turn off the parklamps/headlamps.

5. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the

safety belt unbuckled.

² After step 5 the safety belt warning light will be turned on for three

seconds.

6. Within seven seconds of the safety belt warning light turning off,

buckle then unbuckle the safety belt.

² This will disable Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable Belt

Minder if it is currently disabled.

7. Confirmation of disabling Belt Minder is provided by flashing the

safety belt warning light four times per second for three seconds.

8. Confirmation of enabling Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety

belt warning light four times per second for three seconds, followed by

three seconds with the safety belt warning light off, then followed by

flashing the safety belt warning light four times per second for three

seconds again.

9. After receiving confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is

complete.

Its a tough job. You have to remove the dash panel, including the steering wheel and steering column and then remove the plenum box which involve evacuating the refrigerant system and draining the radiator. Once you get the heater box out, replacing the heater core will take about 10min and then you have to put it all back together and recharge the AC and fill the radiator.

If you are seeing leak problems with the system, you will have to go through this process. If the problem is lack of heat and/or AC control, the problem is more likely the blend door. This is a common fail on the Cherokee. You can get diagnostic information and an inexpensive fix on the HeaterTreater web site. Follow my user name to my Bio Page for a pointer or just search heatertreater on any search engine. ford4me

The '96 Camry power locks and windows fuse is a type C 30-amp rectangular block, pink in frame color with a transparent face. The location is just nuts, if you ask me---took my 14-yr old son to find it. It is located to the right of the instrument panel fuse block, partially obscured by a heating/cooling duct. To get to it, open the tray at the driver's left knee, squeeze the sides to release them, and pull the tray out completetly. Next, remove the two trim panel screws that secure the black plastic piece in front of the fuse block. To the right of the block is a black connector on a white plastic cover. There are three type C fuses near this cover and the blue plastic piece behind it. One is above, two are together to its right. Number 34 (the one you want) is the upper one of the two to the right. Here's where I disappoint you---I didn't pull mine out. I was able to inspect it by compressing the sides of the plastic ductwork and peeking in with a flashlight (it was still good), but I don't have any idea of the easiest way to extract that fuse. It may be possible to drop out the whole fuse block panel from behind the dash, but I really don't know. Sorry I can't help further.

WEll, not for sure about the '97 but I've begun refurbishing my '95, still get 35+ mpg @ 150k+ mi. :) This also applies to a '99.

At any rate. I had to removed everything in the car that touched the liner. All of the plastic body trim inside from the front window to the back window. -metal clip/snap in all the trim along the headliner -screws hold both sun visors -plastic clips hold the dome light -screws hold the roof mount handles at each passenger seat (you have to snap back the covers at each end of these handles to reveal the screw)

These pieces snap in, yes SNAP in, however it is very tight (they are exactly like the metal fasteners that hold the rear deck panel on. you can see them if you put the seats down and look at the corner)... if you have a very long wide flat blade it should help. The running up the middle of the trim pieces, about every 5 or 8 inches. I did end up breaking a couple of mine off, but it doesn't seem to effect it much as long as it's in the middle, so it seems.

Once you get all the interior trim out of the way, the middle will drop and you carefully, if needed, pull thefront down, should be velcro'd to the roof, then the same on rear end. Now here's the tricky part.. If you are trying to get it out in one piece, you will need to lay both front seats down as flat as possible, scoot the chairs up, they will lay flatter. Open the doors let the liner fall then c*ck it over at an angle and twist it slightly and take it out the door at an angle (my 4 door, it went out the left rear 1st time). easier than it sounds, I tried mine about three different times before I got it just right.

Well good luck!! Drop me a line if you need some tips, I'm eyebrow deep into mine... going to look into overhauling the engine soon. Have Fun

It is located on the passenger side of the motor after the catalytic converter. The cat is at the end of the exhaust manifold, so the connector is accessible at the motor, the sensor is accessible from underneath the car.

The check gauges warning is an additional warning to the driver that something is not right. If you see this warning, be sure to survey all the indicators on your instrument panel...especially oil pressure and engine temperature. If you see anything you're not sure of, err on the side of safety and pull off the road, shut down the engine and seek help.

I had a very similar problem with my 1996 Nissan truck. New plugs, wires, distributor and rotor only partly solved the problem. Then I replaced the O2 sensor and the probelm disappeared completely. Had 130K miles on the truck when replaced and the O2 sensor was shot.

b CAUSE U HAVE A LEAK There could be a body plug that has came loose or fallen out completely. Get up under ypur vehcile and check for any holes. if there is one missing. replace it. I had this happen in another vehicle right after the windshield was replaced. The windshield wasn't sealed properly. After a heavy rain, I had about an inch of water on the floor board. After I took it back and had them reseal the windshield, the problem was gone.

The crank sensor should be on the drivers side of the transmission bell housing. It's more towards the top of the bell housing. The easiest way to get to it is reaching down from the top of the engine just below the valve cover. Atleast that is where it is on my 91 4.0L

Your turn signal switch is located on the steering column underneath the plastic shroud. You will need to take off the steering wheel and partially disassemble the column to access this. This is a Mopar part number 56007255.

Its located on the passengers side of the vehicle under the dash right next to the recirculating vent and the vacuum motor...........

You can't reset it I've tried to unhook the battery and clear out the computer but it don't work. You have to take it to the dealer. Be ready to shell out around $500 and it will then come back on in the near futer. Mine did. I'm about ready to start up a class action law suit. They are ripping us off. Never had a car with so many problems.

I'll add my own experience. If you have access to a VAG Com you can turn the airbag light off, assuming that there isn't anything wrong with the airbag system. I took out my passenger seat and turned on the key without the seat installed, this kicks the warning light on. Once the passenger seat was reinstalled, I used my VAG Com to clear the code - since there wasn't anything wrong with the system. The system would trip the airbag warning light again if there was still a problem. If you haven't made any alterations to your car and you have a warning light, a trip to the dealership is really the safest thing...if it is self inflicted, fix the portion of the system that you were messing with, find someone with a VAG Com (Newbeetle.org has a list of VAGCom owners) or pay your dealer the $90 for them to reset it.

The only way i found to disarm the alarm was to use the back hatch lock. lock it and unlock it a few times with the key. if this doesnt work try the door locks

Not really. A properly maintained car can last up to 300,000 miles. The general rule for buying car's is not to buy them if they have over 100,000 miles. As long as you maintain your Jeep, you should be worry free for at least three years or even up to five before you have to fix something big. As for the price, it depends on the year and the mileage. The value of a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a V6 engine and 60,000 miles is about $7,000.

There are many answers to this one, you will have to go through and look at these to hopefully find your answer. First I am not sure if your talking about an automatic, or manuel Transmission, or maybe your Transfer Case? 1 Check to see if you have enough fluid in your trans. 2 If a Manuel, be sure it is topped off, you might have syncros that need replacing. 3 If Automatic, it may be old fluid, need topping off, plugged filter, bad solonoid. etc 4 If Transfer case, be sure you have the right fluid and topped off, maybe bad sliders inside. There is more, but to much to list, as I would need more info to know the year and engine, to help you out more. I do hope this gives you a start to find the problem.

You need a clutch fan removal tool. It holds the four water pump bolts in place and has a wrench to remove the fan itself.

You can rent it at an Advance Auto Parts or Autozone -- you put a deposit down but when you return the tool you get your money back. -- No auto parts store in your area? You can TRY putting a vice-grip on the fan grip and smacking the handle with a hammer, hoping the sudden force will break it free. You should have the serpentine belt ON to do this, to help prevent the water pump pulley from turning. Remember that it's righty-tighty, lefty-loosey if you're looking towards the rear of the van.

It is important to have a diagram when making changes to any electrical parts of a vehicle. A diagram for the wiring harness of a 1997 Dodge Stratus for installing a new radio can be found in the maintenance manual and the diagrams that came with the radio.

The 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee ERG solenoid is located on the firewall of the engine compartment. The solenoid will be on the passenger side of the firewall.

Open the rear liftgate , above the left taillight lense you will see a rubber cap/plug , that is your fill point - I like to remove the plastic cover panel in the drivers rear of the cargo area so I can see the level of the washer fluid in the container

the perform service light on the overhead console is reminding you to change your oil.the system is based on miles driven and not on oil condition.look in owners manual the service interval can be changed and reset easily.usually if you go to independent shops for service the don't reset the reminder

Hi, I was looking for the same information and found a great site with (what I think is) the answer. the fuel sending unit is part of the fuel pump module, and it's inside the fuel tank. hope this helps! you can also try searching 937J Secc 14 Fuel System, that's where I found it :)

Cylinder one is in front by the radiator. The cylinders are numbered in order from front to rear, 1-2-3-4-5-6.

I assume you are talking about the 4.0L I6. There is always at least a little valve rattle on the AMC inline 6 4.0L engine of all years, even on the later-model engines. This is an inherent feature of the I6 hydraulic valve design. But it's impossible to guage if your valve rattle is serious by reading words in an e-message. If it sounds like just a single valve 'clacking' under the valve cover, you may have a problem and should get it checked out. However, if it sounds like all the valves are tapping a little noisily at idle (like marbles rolling around under your valve cover) it might not be much of a problem. Making sure to use the correct weight motor oil might be good. I use 10W-30 and it works fine on my 1995 (but still has a 'little' clacking at idle). But overall, if it's 'very' noisy (especially at speed) then it would probably be best to take it to a reputable mechanic that is famialiar with the AMC I6 engine and have it checked out.