Lincoln Continental

Open the trunk. As you are looking at the trunk (from the rear) , on the left inside of the trunk you will see a little panel (turn little black nob vertically to open) this is the location of your air ride shut off and fuel pump shut off. You will see a large gray box that has a white sticker on it. There will be printed a 5 digit number (ex. 11375) and that will open your locked doors. Pressing an additional "3" at the end of your code will unlock passenger door also. Pressing an additional "5" will open the trunk as well. Hope this helps.

In all seriousness, if you have to ask this question, you probably need to have someone else do it for you. However, if you are game, go to yourlocal parts store and buy a repair book (Haynes or Chilton). This repair is a 'no-brainer'. Good Luck

under the dash on driver's side

check rack and pinion. sounds like it needs to be replaced.

Check the mass airflow sensor or have it checked. You can disconnect it which will allow the engine to start if this is the problem.

This will at least allow you to trouble shoot this component and may allow you to get to a trustworthy independent garage if you have one.

You have to first remove screws on both sides of the fan. Then unplug the positive battery cable. Next remove wires that are attached to fans. you must remove from the bottoms. The bracket at the bottom must be removed and radiator hose. after that it will slide right out!

Do you have the factory air ride or have you converted the car to a coil over suspension?

This is sort of easy but you need to find out why your pump and or solenoids are nor releasing the air. Their is a bleeder valve like a tire valve on the pump its self. just push the middle in and the air should come out if it doesn't try it when the pump is running is should help. Some times you have to play with it buy turning you car on and off. if you are referring to air ride using mcpherson air struts, the pump switch is located in the driver side of the trunk, turn it on. if it doesnt "level" to normal height then check your level sensors. in either case, the default is 25 psi, and releasing the valve at the pump wont solve the problem. also, making it driveable is to add air, not release air, since too much air means a ride that feels like a mustang, and not enough air would be harsh like a low-riding chevy...

I have had the same problem on two ocassions. Your compressor is going bad. After having the compressor replaced (twice), everything was fine. Once it finally levels, turn the suspension off using the switch in the left side of the trunk. Wait awhile. If it drops again, the front bag(s) are leaking. Else the compressor is too worn out to lift properly within the 90 second time limit and the computer is cutting out to "protect" it; will need replacement as is not user serviceable. They go for around $160-$180 (4/2007). Suspect your bags as well, cause if they're leaking, that will cause the new compressor to overwork and fail again.

Bank of 8 relays under the hydraulic pump in trunk and two relays bolted to frame behind the rear seat (upper left area passenger side looking back.)

A website named bransport.com carries lug nut removers for various size lug nut locks. It uses a reverse thread that tightens on the lug nut as you turn it counter clockwise to remove.

Valve cover gaskets are leaking. The valve cover gasket has seals as well around the sparkplug openings. These seals leak and leak oil into the sparkplug wells. drl

The 95 Conti has no OBD1 plug. The vehicle is equipped with the OBD2 system with the port under the steering wheel.

you dont reset it, its automatic, the lowest temp. is 60 degrees i believe.

On a 1998 Lincoln Continental :

The fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is located to the left of the

drivers seat , behind an access panel on the " B pillar "

in 1973 the 460 was detuned (actually 1972) to 235 HP. But they also have hardened seats for the valves to run Unleaded fuels. If you purchase a 1969-1971 TIming set, you can bring the HP BACK!

The door latch grounds itself to chassis ground when closed. your problem involves a little corrosion in and around the latch. The simple fix is to spray a good amount of WD-40 on all door latches. It worked on my 10998 Lincoln

when trying to change alternator in my 1995 Lincoln continental but metal pipes seem to be in the way how do you get around them

There is a little cap, looks like the cap on a bicycle tube, under the hood on the driver's side, toward the center-rear of the engine compartment. Take the cap off, use a pressure gauge for AC's (you can get a set up pretty cheap at Kragen, Pep Boys, or another auto parts house). With the car running and the AC on high, check the pressure to make sure that you aren't overfilling the system. Then, using the same kit you bought at the auto parts store, connect a can to it, connect the line to the bicycle tube-like nipple, and, with the car started and the AC running on high, open up the can and charge the system. Takes about a minute for the can to empty into the system. Remove the filler hose, attach the pressure testing valve, and check your system again. If it needs more, repeat the process. Really fairly straightforward once you have a decent filler kit.

The "Owner Guide" shows the "power decklid pulldown" fuse as Fuse #1 (blue), along with 8 other items, some of which are optional.

Note that this is on the inside fuse block, not the under hood "Power Distribution Box".

Included are:

- automatic level control

- electronic cluster

- radio memory

- heated windshield

- cellular phone

- power decklid pulldown

- power antenna

- CD Changer

- EVO

Vehicle Speed Sensor

The "Door Ajar" warning means your door is not shut all the way.

A 1949 Lincoln 2 door convertible sold new for $3,116.

Mercon v atf

just pull up on it from the front of the seat it will pop out of the holders then un bolt the back of the bracket