Mazda 323

not sure of your question, but, the relay is mounted under or behind the engine computer or ecm.. you have to remove the ecm to find the relay. It is on the inside of the firewall in the middle behind the radio. Good luck

locating speed detecting pinout ,as to fit a speed alert to a 2004sp23 auto mazda3

Should be the same as my 1989 323; 40 PSIG (280 kPag). Please note this is on the discharge side of the high pressure pump, before the fuel filter. Good luck Malcolm

there is no clutch cable. it has a hydraulic clutch. there will be a clutch master cylinder on the firewall near the brake M/C. a hydraulic hose will connect that to the clutch slave cylinder on or near the tranny. the slave cylinder pushes on a fork (lever) that disengages the clutch.

94/98 engine code KF every 54,000 miles

01/03 engine code FS

6,000 mile service intervals replace at 60,000 miles

9,000 mile service intervals replace at 54,000 miles.

If in doubt replace sooner.

it is to the left of the engine beside your belt.

To the best of my knowledge, both the bridge rectifier and the voltage regulator are integrated into the alternator... I recently bought a refurbished alternator and the spec sheet referred to things like ripple current verification (bridge rectifier) and like regulator voltage verification which imply that both of these blocks are part of the regulator...

Sounds like the Oxygen sensor my be faulty; if you lack power at normal engine speeds, but the car will idle, or work above 5,000 RPM, it's definitley the Oxygen Sensor. replce with NTK brand. If the car has over 200,00 miles (300,000 km) also replace the catalytic converter (as they eventually plug). Good luck Malcolm

White reservoir in upper right-hand side above battery.

I have a 1988 Mazda 323 Automatic with M/OD(manual ovedrive). A friend who has an 89 had no trouble using the switch when he borrowed my car, so I assume it was in the same location. It operates using a button on the left side of the Shift lever. The system will not engage unless the temperature of the engine is sufficient, and the RPM is high enough. For my car, the temperature must be about 2-3 tenths of an inch above the lower temperature bar on the Engine Temperature gauge(OEM). The system typically will allow me to engage the M/OD if the speed is over 35mph.

if you're referring to the actual stick part of the switch, it's on the left hand side of the steering column. I thought it be impossible to miss, but apparently not...

I am not aware of a breather filter on the 323. The breather hose on the valve/cam cover vents directly into the intake snorkel located between the throttle body and the air meter (the snorkel is the black oval shaped tube in the shape of an 'L') Cheers Malcolm

The 1.8 motor order is 1342 as far as i have read

Not certain what question you are asking; normal idle is 750-800 RPM hot, transmission in park (AT) or neutral (MT). Cold idle can be 1500-2000 RPM. Idle speed is adjusted at the trhottle body; remove the rubber plug, turn the screw to increase or decrease as required, when the engine is warmed up and in park or neutral. A wandering or hunting idle may be indication of a worn throttle body butterfly valve shaft; poor fuel pressue; vacuum leak; or worn out throttle position sensor, etc.

Good luck

Malcolm

Well, it depends on whether you are taking off the front bumper or the rear bumper. If it is the front bumper, typically on cars you will find two screws (one on each side of the car) located at the point where the bumpers edge meets the fender right at the wheel well. Also, there may be some push pins along the front edge of the wheel well that connects the fender liner to the bumper - they all have to be removed. Then, you will either have to remove addtional push pins or screws along the bottom of the bumper - typically found where the undershield is connected to the bumper. Last, there could be additional push pins or bolts holding the top edge of the bumper and the grill as well. Once you believe you have removed all of the screws/bolts and push pins, give the front bumper a stern tug at the point where the bumper meets the fender at the wheel well. If you get some resistance, grab a flash light, pull back the fender liner and search for more screws/bolts that may be holding the bumper. Otherwise, the only other resistance you may feel is caused by the bumper fitting into the bumper brackets along the fender edge or at the center bracket in front of the car - just give it a firm tug and the bumper should come off. Tug onside first and then the other. Also, be aware of fog lights or reflectors - don't want to damage them and be sure to disconnect any fog lights. For the rear, relatively the same procedure however, you may need to pop your trunk sometimes on some cars, you will need to remove the rear trim panel or piece or even trunk interior trim to gain access to the nuts that are screwed onto the studs that are connected to the bumper. Also check where the bumper butts up to the rear of the trunk, you may find that you need to remove a couple of bolts there as well. Once you have been around the bumper removing all screws/bolts of push pins - do the same drill start at one side, give a firm tug and do the same to the other - the bumper should pull right off the brackets that are attached to the rear quarter panels. If you tug an the bumper won't budge look for the point of strongest resistance, there you will find an over looked bolt or pin. To replace the bumper do the opposite, line it up, slap it on, bolt it down.

on 98 demio , it is under bonnet, top right, small grey box with lid marked 'diagnostics'

1991 Mazda 323 headlight bulb lamp replacement procedure: Purchase the correct replacement headlight bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See Sources and Related Links below for replacement bulb information and full light bulb part numbers list. Then consult your owner's manual for the headlight bulb lamp replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

Perhaps you are not easing off on the accelerator when using the clutch.

you would get this from a worn clutch .

These settings can be difficult to manage. It is best to find the users manual to figure out how to use all of them.

Usually it is a electrical problem. But depend if the engine is hot or cold.

When it is cold it may be electrical wiring, so the easiest way to fix it is to go to your nearest trusted auto electrician to put on the diagnostics and check the response variables.

When it's hot it must be the Lambda censor. It will even struggle to start after the engine is hot. But when you push start it it starts.

Be smart and go to the auto electrician first and get it checked. Otherwise you are going to spend much more money than supposed to.

Hein

You allready have a Mazda 323 engine in the car. The power plant for the car of the years 91-94 has either non turbo: 1.6 Mazda B6L4 Turbo: 1.6L Turbo Mazda B6TL4 Info about the turbo engine: 1.6 L (1597 cc, 97 cu in) B6T - (78x83.6 mm) - The ubiquitous turbocharged, fuel-injected and intercooled 16-valve DOHC B6, released in 1985 and used in numerous models worldwide including the 323 GT-X, 1985-1989 Mazda Familia GT-X/GT/Infini, 1985-1989 Ford Laser TX3 turbo, and later Mercury Capri's. This engine was most commonly found mated to a 4WD drivetrain although FWD models were also available. Power and torque outputs varied across markets due to emission and fuel standards, but the Japanese version of the B6T was the most powerful, producing 147 hp (110 kW) and 137 ft·lbf (186 N-m)

First we need to know what year is the vehicle.

All carburetors need to be free of buildup or debris so that they can omit exhaust. The exhaust system on a Mazda 323 can be serviced by a mechanic.

There are 4 bolts behind the airbag housing that you undo in order to remove the airbag. Once you have removed these support the airbag and unclip (orange clip first) the orange and blue connectors and place the airbag to one side. You can then undo the nut that holds the wheel on the spline, give the wheel a firm wiggle/tap from the back and it will release. If you want to alter the angle then do so and refit or if to completely remove unclip the electrical connector and pass through the space hole. Rgds. Terry

.012 on intake .010 on exhaust