Mazda 323

.012 on intake .010 on exhaust

I believe, but don't quote me on this, that the hold button is just for holding the overdrive off for around town driving. You can still shift manually by going thru first, second, drive then pushing the hold button which would allow the overdrive gear to come on. In saying that i don't think overdrive works under 60kmh/35mph.

in front of the gear shift

Disconnect negative of battery, disconnect/unplug wiring from alternator, remove adjuster bracket and bolts, loosen alternator through bolt and remove belt. Unbolt brake fluid master cylinder (2x 12mm head nuts) and remove from servo unit and push to one side. If brake pipes are tight you may need to disconnect these also (remembering to bleed brakes afterwards). You should now be able lift alternator off mount and carefully lift it out between servo and rear of engine. Refitting is in reverse order.

If you have Mazda 323 anywhere from 1994 - 1998 and the radiator starts to boil after running it for a couple of minutes, check if you temp goes higher than normal. If this is the case, this is most likely to do with your thermostat which is probably jammed shut which doesn't let the cooled water run through into your engine. When this happens the outlet of water from your engine is boiling the water which is jammed. Theres two water pipes connecting the radiator to the engine the lower pipe on the left is the outlet from your engine and the higher right side is the outlet into your engine. If you remove the higher right hand side pipe which is normally held on by a jubilee clip makesure your engine is cool. Undo the 3 bolts to the inlet which is connecting the radiator pipe to your engine and you will see your thermostat pop it off with a knife or a screwdriver. You should be able to pick up a thermostat for around £6. Replace with a new one, replace your inlet and your radiator pipe. Refill your radiator and your problem should be solved. Good Luck.

The fuel pump relay (also known as the open circuit relay) is under the dash at the rear of the center console by the fire wall. It can be accessed through a small access panel under the glove box on the center console. It should be black and yellow. As far as if you think it may be broken you might want to check the conecter under the back seat that goes to the fuel pump. Also check the air flow meter because if it doesn't work or is disconected the fuel pump relay won't turn on.

It's optional on the 323 so most don't have one

no they are not

firing order 1,3,4,2. 1 being the sparkplug closet to the cam belt The firing order is either clockwise or anticlockwise. Apparently the front-wheel drive version has a reverse firing order...

Disconnect battery, jack up car, safely, so that you can go under the car. From above, identify and remove the two bolts that secure the starter motor. Leave the top one just in by about two threads. Working from underneath, remove the push on spade connector to the starter solenoid and the main terminal nut and remove battery cable (12mm hex). There is another bolt that needs to be removed from underneath. Now get an assistant to undo the bolt that was left in before from the top. Pull the starter motor towards the front of the engine from underneath and hand up to assistant.

Good Luck.

z5 (1.5) and bp (1.8) engine Ron 93+, 2.0l v6 Ron 95+

Stock timing is 2 degrees before top dead centre (BTDC). The timing marks are on the front cover of the engine and are in 2 degree increments. Timing is adjusted by loosening the two bolts holding down the distributor. Make sure the engine is warmed up and the idle speed is 850 RPM with the transmission in neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). Use a strobe timing light with the sensing wire on #1 cylinder ignition wire (#1 is closest to the front of the engine). Also disconnect the vacumm hoses to the distributor and block off the hoses. With the engine running, rotate the distributor as required until the mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the 2 degree BTDC mark on the timing belt cover. Once adjusted, tighten the distributor bolts and reattach the vacuum hoses. Cheers Malcolm

i need carburetors Mazda 323 1.5L rebuilding

Harold E. Lozano P.

harenlo@cable.net.co

.144

Check your fuel pressure regulater. If it is jammed you won't get fuel to the injecters.

speedometer not working can you help

All the time or when the brakes are applied. Sounds like it's time for a complete brake replacement. If one is so bad that it's grinding, the other is very close to shot also.

sounds like you have a air leak son the in take some where.

Very difficult. You have to make your own template. I tried several installation kits form the market none fit for new stlye radios very difficult.

disconnect both poles, wait 5 minutes, lossen the bolt, replace your battery, tighten the bolt, connect both poles. here you go disconnect both poles, wait 5 minutes, lossen the bolt, replace your battery, tighten the bolt, connect both poles. here you go

The multi-function switch is broken and must be replaced; see your local auto wrecker.

Cheers

Malcolm

Check break liquid level. I did it, and its works!

Cicipapa

Your car has two flasher relays. One for the turn signal lights and one for the hazard lights. Replace the one for the hazard lights. Any auto parts store can tell you the location and sell you a new one.

There are some screws on the reverse or the wheel. Start here :)

They are bolts (10mm I think) that you unscrew the 4 and remove the airbag. Undo the 2 electrical connections (orange one first) and put the airbag dowwn. Then unscrew the nut holding the wheel onto the spline/column. The wheel may need a firm wiggle to release it.

Usually means when starting car, diagnoses all systems go. Any light that stays on

or comes on when running car, means there is a fault. Refer to handbook.