Mazda Millenia

under the hood, at the back of the headlight assembly, you'll see a round plastic dome. This is the seal to the headlight. Unscrew it (1/4 to 1/2 turn) look for and release the 'pin' that holds the halogen bulb in place and the bulb will easily slide out of its housing. Check your manual as well, it'll have full illustrations.

Retrieve error codes on 95 millin -- you jump ten and ground in the data link connector.

29's - i have a 97 millenia and i had to visit the parts dept. at my local Mazda dealership with my registration in order to have an extra key made. my dealer had to send out for the key because it is cut differently from other keys and it cost me about 75 dollars.

I was told that if your torque converter is empty it's about 8.5 quarts. If not empty about 5 quarts.

pre cats or main cat? most likely the pre cats, which are part of the exhaust manifold. both have to come off from underneath. front is not too bad, remove the "Y" pipe first, then it comes out. the rear one will take much longer. you have to remove the entire exhaust, and a crossmember that the exh pipe goes over. the pre cat oxygen sensor is really hard to get at, you will need a couple of extensions and universals. you can just barely get it out by turning and twisting, if not, try removing the heat shield. if that dont work, you will have to pull the right side axle and jack shaft. i have always been able to get it out without removing the axle or the heat shield.

in the fuel tank. it can be reached without taking the tank down. remove the lower portion of the rear seat and you will see the cover for the fuel pump. simply remove with a Phillips screw driver.

i don't think so. what that is, is the fuel level sender #2. BIIG difference. fuel tank has to come out to get to the fuel pump

1.1mm(.044in)

take it to a shop its behind the timing belt cover you have to take every thing off the front of the engine including the motor mount!!!

Open the driver door, sit on the seat and leave door open. Insert key in ignition. Turn to AC (instrument lights on), and switch off. Repeat 3 times fast. Depress the spring light switch on the door panel 3 times (the cabin lights will switch on and off). Press the remote unlock button 3 times. Exit the car, close the door and try the remote. If it doesn't work try again, or check your remote battery.

You need a 10mm wrench, a pliers, the filters and a vacuum cleaner. The filter is a 2 piece affair and is located below the glove box.

Move the passenger seat all the way back. Stick your head under the dash and remove the plastic cover that hides all the crap under the dash. This cover snaps in place, there are no screws to remove to pull it out. Now look for a piece of silver metal about 6" by 3/4" with a 6mm bolt in the middle of it. It is aligned front to back directly under the glove box and forward. Take the bolt out and metal piece down. Now take the pliers and grab the little tab on the bottom of the filter and pull down. Look at the new filter to see what the little tab looks like. The rear filter will come down with a bunch of dirt and bugs. Slide the front filter back towards you and it will also come down and out of the opening. Look at the old filter and notice which is front and back. Look at the 2 filters, they are not the same. Vacuum out all the dirt you can. Put the new filters in just like the old ones came out.

www.macautoparts.net courtesy of www.mazdaforum.com

P1170 - Feedback A/F mixture control (ho2s11)

P1173 - Feedback A/F mixture control (ho2s21)

Break down the code as follows:

"Ho2s" for Oxygen Sensor. The numbers after the "s" refer to locations. In the case of 11, its bank 1 circuit 1. Where as the 21 would refer to bank 2, circuit 1.

example, "ho2s11" we could say: oxygen sensor, bank 1, circuit 1

must be an engineer's answer. all kinds of facts, but it dont make sense. the reason you have those codes is simple. you have air leaks in the vacuum line system, most common is broke plastic "tee's". depending on which engine-2.5 or 2.3, the job can be difficult, or pain in the butt(2.3). parts are really cheap, but labor will break your wallet

Around 200 bucks.

Unless you fall for the old -

"We are not allowed to turn your rotors again sir or Maam, they are XXX under the Legal thickness so you will need new ones at an additional cost of approx 140 for each wheel"

I get this Every freeking time I go into the place.

On the transmission output shaft housing on the side closest to the firewall.

You'll need to be much more specific as to the make and model of the vehicle.

how many oxgen sensors on a 1995 millenia

The Supercharged 2.3 liter will have a large piece of black platic over the top of the engine that says "MILLER CYCLE ENGINE" in large green letters and 2 small air-to-air intercoolers inside the engine compartment.

vacuum/vent solenoids

good luck its not very easy you will have to pull the intake off then the valve covers and then next will be the head of the engine I'm not sure if the millenia's have two heads or not the heads should always be milled by the machine shop and between the block and the head is the head gasket you will also have to re time the car on the timing belt.

THis is actually an easy task as I just did it to my 2002 Millena S. You start by removing the (2) bolts holding the caliper to the mounts. Slightly tap the caliper off of the rotor using a hammer. While supporting the caliper remove the front side break pad leaving the break pad nearest the cylinder in place. You do this so you can attach a C clamp & slowing push the cylinder back into the caliper. Carefull not to go to fast as you are pushing the break fluid back into the master cylinder. Once this is complete you can remove the old pad & install the new pads just as the old ones came out. Be sure to use plently of squeek suppressant (supplied with the new pads) on the back of the break pads to avoid sweeks later.

Reinstall the caliper & new pads over the rotor & reinstall the (2) mounting bolts. Repeat the procedure for all (4) breaks. Good Luck!

<< I do all of the same myself except -

1- Remove ONLY ONE of the two bolts while only loosening the second. Use the second bolt as a "Pivot Point" to swing it aside while avoiding any risk or stress on the brake line if it falls off its perch as described above.

2- ALWAYS remove the cap of the break fluid reservoir BEFORE compressing the caliper. You will run the risk of any damage to the master cylinder and prevent any fights with the caliper as it fights you by moving back into its original position when you remove the clamp. Place a towel around the reservoir because the fluid will spill out as you repeat this around the car.

3- When completed all your brakes put the reservoir cap back on and GENTLY pump the brakes tight again BEFORE to test drive. Do this with the engine running IN PARK.

the fsm says to pull the fuel pump relay, then start the car. i have NEVER got this to work. i leave the car sit for at least overnite, then use rags to catch the excess fuel

If the grinding noise is heard only when starting the car, the problem is probably worn bushings. When the bushings wear out, the armature inside the starter will "sag" and grind against the inside of the starter as it spins, causing the grinding noise you hear. This condition is called "starter drag". Eventually, as the bushings keep wearing, the armature will not spin at all. If you are mechanically inclined, you can purchase a starter kit and do the repairs yourself. If not, it would be wise to replace the starter before you become stranded somewhere.

The Millenias and their Commonwealth cousins the "Xedos" all suffered a common defect resulting in MOST CEL issues. This engine configuration typically results in the need for replacement of 1 to 2 O2 sensors and / or the DREADED KNOCK Sensor embedded deep in the Manifold assembly. Mine ran 3 years with this CEL on due to the cost of labour one item to replace. The sensor was only 165 bucks while the labour to install was nearly 800.

I will admit once it was replaced I was not only legal again for the Emmissions test, but the thing ran smoother than it ever did ina ll seasons PLUS I got nearly 2 points to my highway Mileage.

Now the codes are confusing on this because two of the O2 sensors share the same circuit and the code wont necessarily identify WHICH o2 is actually bad, that unfortunately is hit or miss. The KNOCK sensor code is separate and distinct however but all will result in a costly set of repairs.

Good Luck

to tighten wheel bearing, tighten until wheel is a little hard to spin,then back off just enuff for wheel to spin freely

keeping in mind that castle nut will need to line up with hole in axle for cotter pin

Where is the AC recharge port on a 99 Mazda millennia supercharged