Mazda Millenia

Get yourself a Haynes repair manual for you model, available at most autoparts stores for around $20. Most repair proceedures are covered in them.

mine done the same thing it was the camshaft position sencor

i dont think so. more than likely your ce lite is on, and tcs off/tcs lites, too. car is going into "limp home" mode. if you pull your codes, probably 1525/1526 and 1540, which is the vacuum/vent solenoids, and the abv circuit. replace the solenoids, change out your vacuum lines.

When downtown, often when in dense crowds (more commonly in crowds where hippies are present), musty stenches are boldly identified. Musty odors dissipate in a lengthy trail behind and around dirty hippies. This unappealing perfume can often encompass a radius up to 20 feet. Very commonly, this stank radiates into passerby's nostrils due to the emitter's lack of hygiene's. This lack of hygiene is demonstrated through moldy globs of dirty dread locks, discolored sweat stains, moistened clothing from last month's body oils, and dirty toe nails. Hippies natural "herbs" and alcohol use intensifies the terrible smell by adding a rancid and bitter skunk odor to the musty stench.

To combat the terrible smells of the must, washing of the body is vital. Daily showers are necessary for eliminating a musty stink. Shampoo, body wash, nail clippers, and plenty of showering for longer than 15 minutes per day can fend off this odor. Also, the cleaning of living quarters is also vital. This includes, Washing of the bedding, clothing, socks, shoes, throwing away of all Birkenstocks, and replacing soy bean fluid with real delicious cow's milk.

I tried replacing a Fuel pump on a 2000 Mazda Millenia. There are there openings total. Two (2) of the openings are under the back side passenger seat. They two shiny plates secured with 4 screws each. They are NOT for the fuel pump. They are for fuel LEVEL sending unit(Fuel gauge)In between the back rest, there is an opening which opens to the trunk. Take this "plate" out and there is the fuel FILTER and pump. Due to limited space I was not able to take the FUEL PUMP OUT. I gave up!!!! The fuel tank has to come down!!!!

i m getting no sound for my 2000 millenia after replacing factory radio with a aftermarket jvc unit from crutchfield...only wire i have n't connected is the amp wire which i am not sure is required... what is the round cable smaller to the one to the power antenna cable?

If it doesn't "ping" severely no problem

From your question I assume you have the supercharged 2.3 liter. One tank of 87 octance will not hurt it,but DON'T do it on a regular basis. The higher combustion chambers temps that result from knock(this happens because the incorrect fuel is being used) can destroy pistons and even burn holes in them. Usually this isn't a problem because as soon as the knock sensor detects engine knock it tells the ECU to alter ignition and timing maps to correct the problem,this only delays knock from happening, in the end it is better to use the correct fuel which is 91 octane and above.

You can change the tail light for a 95 to 02 by changing the trunk LID by changing the lid it allows the light to fit.

Might be the timing belt broke,remove cap and see if rotor spins.

line up timing mark and see if rotor points to #1 plug wire on cap.

A loose belt. Most likely the alternator belt, if it doesn't squeal when you make a sharp turn.

this is a big job. remove plastic "miller cycle" cover, disconnect throttle cable all the way past the firewall, and move it out of the way. pull the front intercooler. the spring clamps on the black silicone connector are tricky, i always replace them with the screw on hose clamps. now you will see the left(front) bank coils. each coil is held on by 2 8mm wrench screws, which also have a Phillips head, but if they have never been off before, use a socket. i prefer 6 pt sockets, i have thrown out all the 12 pt ones. the connector to each coil is really cranky, what i do is push down on the release tab, and at the same time GENTLY pry it away from the coil with a flat blade screwdriver. if you are too harsh, you will break off the lock tab, and the connector will not lock back on. after you disconnect the 3 coils, unscrew the mounting screws, and GENTLY pull off the coils. more than likely, there will be oil in the wells. you need to clean the oil out, otherwise, when you pull the plug out, the excess oil drains into the combustion chamber. make sure you get the correct plug. i like ngk 3741, which is the factory plug. the gap is critical, do NOT use iridiums, they are NOT gapped correctly, and don't believe any parts store, you do NOT regap precious metals tipped plugs. .7-.8mm(.028-.032in) is the correct gap. ngk and denso plugs with -11 after the number is WRONG. -11 means the gap is 1.1mm, WAY too big, and you will kill the coils. which cost a couple HUNDRED apiece. the left bank plugs(2-4-6) should take an hour, max. the right(rear) bank(1-3-5) will test your patience.

this is how i do the right bank. first, all those connectors by the egr valve have to be disconnected. some have a clip holding them on to a bracket, i take those off from the bracket. you can label them all, i don't, because the wiring is now bent in a way that they will only go back on one way. disconnect the hoses from the egr valve, and pull the egr valve. some people don't have to pull the valve, i cannot get at the plugs/coils unless i pull the valve. the big nut on the valve is 23mm, an adjustable wrench will work. then there are the 4 solenoids on a bracket right next to the egr valve, unbolt it, and move it out of the way the best you can. underneath is a short hose, that also has to come off. to me, the connector on #5 is near impossible to get at, some people can get at it, i have to pull off the rear intercooler to gain access. however, to pull the rear ic, you gotta pull the battery, and the battery tray, and disconnect the wiring harness. one of the nuts that holds the rear ic on to the intake is hidden behind it, you have to get at it by feel. once you get all that stuff off, you can now get at the coils and plugs. you will need a couple extensions and universals. because of the level of difficulty getting at the rear plugs, if you take the car to a shop, they will not change them, but charge you for it. that's because it takes so long, they give up. that is why so many of these cars have never had the plugs on the rear bank changed. they THINK they were, but they ain't.

i always clean the wells of oil, if you have air, it is easy but really messy. what i do is keep dipping the spark plug socket and wiping off the oil until it is almost gone. then remove the spark plug, and use a long screwdriver and rags to clean it. oil will short out the coils. they are how much? to stop oil in the future, i clean the inside of each well; brake cleaner works very well for this. feel inside the well, you will feel a groove where the valve cover gasket is. use a good silicon seal, and smear it into the groove. remember, it has to be really clean to take. mark each coil, and swap the right bank coils with the left bank. the right bank coils get a lot more heat, and they don't live as long as the left(front) bank. i also chase the threads, and neversieze the plugs. the right bank will take about 4 hours if it is the first time.

you gotta pull off the knuckle, and have the bearing pressed out, and a new one pressed in

remove the 2" diameter plugs, 1 for each light. Behind is the horizontal adjustment screw. Remove the black plastic surround and see the vertical adjustment screw. david Eyles

My car is having same issue. We took the cover off the timing belt today and bought new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner. The tensioner appears to have significant play and the belt seems to be stretched pretty bad. I have a feeling the slack at low RPMs is allowing the tension to float forward then slamming it back against the pin in the top of the tensioner. At mid range RPMs the belt is able to maintain consistent pressure on the pulley to hold it against the tensioner. My car sounded like someone shaking a can of paint with a paint ball in it. It does getting faster with RPMs but clears at around 1800 RPMs and returns at higher RPMS. First started as a light noise and over a few days became horrible. Anyone else have an ideas or fixes. Will know tomorrow if mine is fixed. 3.6 hrs labor ($60x3.6=$210 approx.) and about $200 ($82 tensioner, $55 belt, $40 water pump +Tax) in parts from local part store.

There's a remove tool available at Auto Zone. They come two pieces to a pack - you'll need four of them. They look like "u" shapes with nubs on the end. There are small black plastic caps on both sides of the radio. Remove those and you'll see the holes that the tools fit into. Once inserted, they end up acting like little handles. Put pressure towards the middle and simple pull them like handles. I did it with only one set but it was a little tricky. The tools are only $4 / set, so I'd get the two sets if I were you.

Mazda Discontinued the Millenia in 2002.

How do I hot wire my mazda millennia not for illegal reasons. I lost my key and need to get my car home

No doesn't have one

Trouble code P0715 means:Input/turbine speed sensor circuit malfunction

It is in the Trunk up by the back seat

Lift the bonnet and look at the area below the wipers. Number is comonly printed there.

Locking Mechanism controlled by your brake pedal has failed.

It will need to be repaired