Mazda Millenia

random missfire

There is a pin switch with a bad electrical contact. Usually on the driver's door, since it is the most used. To test, just squirt a little WD-40 on it and work it in, if the lights work as they should for awhile - there you have it. Replace the switch for a more permanent solution.

I have 120k on my 1999.

What typically get these is the engine or the transmission at around 150+

I rarely see folks on these things tallking about higher....

It's attached to the back of the intake manifold, under the bracket that supports the wiring harness.

I haven't seen one. To drain the system you need to open the pressure cap and unclamp one of the lower end water hoses.

Answer

The first thing you want to do is push the gas door in. Sometimes it gets stuck mid way. Secondly, make sure that the button is not faulty. You can do this by taking a wire and connecting it to the wire located behind the release button.

I am sorry I cannot offer an answer to this as yet just to commiserate. I too have a 2000 millennia with under 80,000 km and the same malady. Is it blue or black smoke? Oil is leaking into the screw chamber on the supercharger,an early sign of failure.Another sign is oil pooling in the intercoolers.

Right side of the engine comp. at the front of the engine by the belts yellow dipstick

Possible valve cover gaskets are leaking oil onto the plugs and the oil is getting into the cylinder. The oil can also short the plug wire and damage the plug wire causing the check engine light to light.

Button on the shifter.

on our 99, i have to remove the headlite assembly to get to the horn. there is one on each side

The manual claims a capacity of 18 US gallons. The capacity of the tanks is 18 US gallons.

The front and rear brakes are both made of ceramic. i bought front and rear brakes on eBay for $80 total.

if the water pump is broke, you wont be driving for very long. probably about 15 miles, depending on how warm it is. then the engine will lock up forever. if the thermostat is broke, and it is closed, then the coolant wont circulate, and it will go a bit farther before it locks up. if the stat is broke open, then it will run, but it will run rich for a long time.

timing marks on 2002 Mazda millennium 2.5 dohc

the closest to a sensor for tcs would be the abs wheel speed sensor. just like abs, the control unit sees one wheel spinning faster, and it enables the traction control. kinda like reverse abs. not to be confused with limp home mode, where the pcm stops communicating with tcm, and the tcs off/tcs lites up, and the car wont rev above 2500 rpm

The firing order is 1 Back Left, 2 Front Left, 3 Back Middle, 4 Front Middle, 5 Back Right, 6 Front Right Hope this helps The firing order is 1 Back Left, 2 Front Left, 3 Back Middle, 4 Front Middle, 5 Back Right, 6 Front Right Hope this helps

Not only is my hold light flashing, my gears are slipping! it goes into 1st and 2nd and then it slips and sounds like it goes to neutral. I have to let off the gas and reapply gas to get it to change gears.. and even then, my rpm's are high (at 45mph, rpm about 5). My battery went dead about 2 weeks ago, I got two boosts to start it up, and then heard you are not supposed to boost these cars! Could doing this and then putting the new battery in have hurt my car this much? HELP! I am hoping it is not the transmission, which I have been told it might be. But I have also been told that it might be the computer fried, because of the boost... could that cause my car to slip gears?? and the hold light to flash??

Three types of material that can be recycled are paper, glass, and plastic. Another one is cardboard.

when the car is moving, and traction control is enabled(tcs), tcs lite will flash, and generally, power will be reduced. when traction is restored, the lite goes off, and it drives normal. however, on the 2.3, if something goes wrong with the abv circuit, like a vacuum leak, then the pcm puts the car in limp home mode. pcm stops communicating with tcm, tcs off/tcs lites come on, and the car will not go above 2500 rpm. that has nothing to do with traction, it has to do with boost. since pcm can no longer control the abv, it cannot control boost, so it disables it. along with a few other features

My car with the same problem was fixed by replacing two solenoids which were completely dead. The car is running fine now. Prior to this the engine light was always one, and the TCS light would come on intermitently especially when going uphill.

first, get it scanned. see what the codes are. if 0300, that is random miss. specific would be like 0301(cyl #1), 0302(cyl #2), yada, yada. then, figger out which engine you got. 2.5-conventional ign system, distributor, hi tens wires, yada, yada. or 2.3, cop system. then there are several ways to go, depending on which engine. i would start with plugs, then wires, cap, rotor, dist. this is for 2.5. on the 2.3 it is way more difficult. and depends on how bad the miss is. and what you want to spend. since we have 2 2.3's, what i do is get the CORRECT spark plugs, and a full set of coils that i know are good. then i change them all. on the 2.5, it is so easy, you can do it with one hand, blindfolded, behind your back. on a 2.3, it takes 2 men and a small boy, and a lot of patience.

My two cents after 120k miles ownership of a '99 2.5L

- Replace Rotor Cap

- Replace Rotor button <Caution> buy this locally as there are TWO types for the 2.5l and it depends on what year and where on the assebly line the change when into affect. They look the same Except for a subtle difference in the shaft shape.

- Replace Sparks <Caution> Do NOT use Platinum or Split or Multi Point plugs. Use STD NipponDenso copper. The promise of better performance is crap, and actually has adverse affects on performance.

- Replace Entire Wireset - Next to last and almost the most expensive step.

Notes:

Burn 93 Octane ALWAYS on the 2.5l. It especially likes as much Ethanol you can get in the blend. Mine always ran best on the cheaper 93 with 15% Ethanol with never any misfires or sluggishness.

The comment above about the 2.5 is partly accurate - The back 3 are hard to get to using std Tools in your garage. Be carefull on the spark changes here yourself here as it is EASY to cross thread these due to their placement and angle. Place these and start them BY HAND first.

again, BAD answer. first off, factory RECOMMENDED plugs are platinum tipped. they are good for 60k. and 15% ethanol is too much. check with Mazda, they will tell you max of 10%. and, if you have a properly operating knock sensor, you can use any octane, but it is best to use the factory recommended. which is 91 or better on a 2.3. course, if you are stupid, and drive around for 3 years with the cel on, then yah, use the best grade you can get. and if you have trouble getting to the right bank plugs on a 2.5, you need to let the pros do it. but get estimates first, or you will be paying a shop twice what the going rate is for stuff like a knock sensor. sheesh. 800 bucks. i have some land in west Texas for sale

(95-02) Millenia S 2.3l s/c ignition coil removal/spark plug locator

tools: phillips screwdriver, 8mm socket, needle nose pliers, 10mm,12mm socket

notes: ignition coil 1,3,5 back from the left -2,4,6 from left front (facing engine)

associated with codes p0300-p0306

firstly there are two sets of three coils.

In the front, you need to detach the inter cooler by a 12 bolt and two 12 nuts (do not bend/lose the gasket).

then you must detach the two clamps closest to the front of the car holding the inter cooler.

then you remove the ignition wires from the coil packs with a screwdriver, or just clip them off.

then you must either use a 8mm socket or philips screwdriver to remove the coil- do not stretch the spring in the boot.

back set- you must disconnect the egr valve hose, and wire switch. you must also remove the other wire harness connectors in that area.

there is a 10 head bolt that is for the ignition start which is a lightly colored plastic square.( this piece must be grounded back into the place on the bracket for car to start back up!).

then on the bracket which houses all the intake actuators must be removed. this has two 10 bolts and a 12 head bolt holding it on. then you must push it out of the way, being careful not to pull any of the hoses out.

then there is a hose with two squeeze clamps over the coil packs. take a needle nose pliers to remove this bringing the clamps in the middle and sliding the hose off the two openings. then disconnect the ignition wires. then use either the 8mm socket, or philips screwdriver to remove the coils.

Trouble code P0720 means: Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit

29s here the easiest way is to remove the air intake hose (drivers side of engine)completely and follow the lower hose off the radiator to the steel thermostat housing their should be (2) bolts holding it together remove and replace thermostat. NOTE: USE A NEW GASKET ONLY, DO NOT RE-USE THE OLD ONE, GASKET PAPER OR RTV GASKET SEALANT THESE WILL LEAK AFTER A SHORT TIME. AND YOU MAY HAVE TO HAVE YOUR SYSTEM BLED (REMOVE AIR POCKETS) PROFESSIONALLY, IF THEIR IS EVEN THE SMALLEST AIR POCKET IT WILL CAUSE THE CAR TO RUN HOT.