Mercury Capri

You can go to a Mercury dealership. They should be able to cut another key for you. I did this with my car when I needed another copy. However, they may only go back so many years. I was able to replaced a key for a 1991 model, but they could not replace one for my 1990 model, and that was a few years ago. Still, they should be able to direct you even if they cannot replace it. Remember, they will want to see proof of ownership.

27 grams

1500bs (nadaguides)

Purchase a Ford Removal tool from Best Buy for $10.00. There are two holes on each front side of the radio. Just inserting a coat hanger will not work. Insert the new removal tool and you may have to pry from the sides with a flat screwdriver.

Go to this web site and download it for free http://www.techcapri.com/

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

**** Note that this car is an Italian designed car, built in Australia for Mazda/ Ford. Mazda was concerned about competition for the Miata, but Ford saw it as a different market due to the extra seats. ****

With that knowledge, Finding a repair manual can be difficult. You might need to combine some info from a Miata manual with knowledge of how the front end is put together. Almost everything I have done on the front of the car involves removing pieces to get access to all the bolts and/ or disconnecting the Passenger side motor mount and dropping the engine.

For internal engine issues, I would say that if you cannot find an actual Capri manual, check manuals that have the Mazda 1.6l engine.

Dilation (dilatation) and curettage literally refers to the dilation (opening) of the cervix and surgical removal of the contents of the uterus. It is a therapeutic gynecological procedure as well as a rarely used method of first trimester abortion.[1][2] It is commonly referred to as a D&C. D&C normally refers to a procedure involving a curette, also called sharp curettage.[1] However, some sources use the term D&C to refer more generally to any procedure that involves the processes of dilation and removal of uterine contents, which includes the more common suction curettage procedures of manual and electric vacuum aspiration.[3] The first step in a D&C is to dilate the cervix, usually done a few hours before the surgery. The woman is usually put under general anesthesia before the procedure begins. A curette, a metal rod with a handle on one end and a sharp loop on the other, is inserted into the uterus through the dilated cervix. The curette is used to gently scrape the lining of the uterus and remove the tissue in the uterus. This tissue is examined for completeness (in the case of abortion or miscarriage treatment) or pathologically for abnormalities (in the case of treatment for abnormal bleeding).[1] D&Cs are commonly performed to resolve abnormal uterine bleeding (too much, too often or too heavy a menstrual flow);[2] to remove the excess uterine lining in women who have conditions such as polycystic ovary syndrome (which cause a prolonged buildup of tissue with no natural period to remove it);[citation needed] to remove tissue in the uterus that may be causing abnormal vaginal bleeding,[1] including postpartum retained placenta;[citation needed] to remove retained tissue (also known as retained POC or retained products of conception) in the case of a missed or incomplete miscarriage;[3] and as a method of abortion that is now uncommon.[1] Because medical and non-invasive methods of abortion now exist, and because D&C requires heavy sedation or general anesthesia and has higher risks of complication, the procedure has been declining as a method of abortion. The World Health Organization recommends D&C as a method of surgical abortion only when manual vacuum aspiration is unavailable.[4] According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, D&C only accounted for 2.4% of abortions in the United States in the year 2002,[5] down from 23.4% in 1972.[6] One risk of sharp curettage is uterine perforation. Although normally no treatment is required for uterine perforation, a laparoscopy may be done to verify that bleeding has stopped on its own. Infection of the uterus or fallopian tubes is also a possible complication, especially if the woman has an untreated sexually transmitted infection.[1] Another risk is intrauterine adhesions, or Asherman's syndrome. One study found that in women who had one or two sharp curettage procedures for miscarriage, 14-16% developed some adhesions.[7] Women who underwent three sharp curettage procedures for miscarriage had a 32% risk of developing adhesions.[7] The risk of Asherman's syndrome was found to be 30.9% in women who had D&C following a missed miscarriage [8], and 25% in those who had a D&C 1-4 weeks postpartum. [9][10][11] Untreated Asherman's syndrome, especially if severe, also increases the risk of complications in future pregnancies, such as ectopic pregnancy, miscarriage, and abnormal placentation (eg.placenta previa).[1] According to recent case reports, use of vacuum aspiration can also lead to intrauterine adhesions. [12]

Check this link for an opinion on this-http://www.midcomustang.com/caprihistory.shtml

At this time no, but it still may be a collectors car after it turns 25, esp the 1994 wich fewer were made, not much is mentioned of the vehicle some import magazines have marked the car as a keeper as far as rare cars go.

no spark could be a few things but most likely its the control module in the distrbutor test the coil first ive replaced alot of control moduels on 91 to 94 capris and old festas main reason why thers no spark ,

www.techcapri.com

I found a site called TeamCapri.com they have step by step directions with diagrams that are printable. That should help you. The section is called removing and replacing the Timing Belt. Hope that gives you some help.

automatic fluid ford If its a standard you don't put tranny fluid in it!! Lord have mercy if you are talkin about putting somethin in the clutch reservior it should plainly say DOT 3 which is brake fluid. If you put tranny fluid in that its gonna eat up the seals and you will have to replace the slave cylinder and the clutchmaster!! YOU SHOULD NEVER PUT TRANSMISSION FLUID IN A STANDARD!! Granted.... But there is a transmission that is sealed an NORMALLY wouldn't need any kind of oil. HOwever, due to circumstances, that transmission has been damaged and the oil has leaked, I have a new transmission with nothing. I can't seem to find any information on what goes into that...

Where is the location of the fuel pump relay?

Capri Sun (also called Capri Sonne in different countries) is owned by a German company called WILD

:)

Buy a kit.. but first you have to have all the old Freon removed from the systmen and it vacuumed out... You can remove the old freon one of 2 ways.. one is enviromentaly friendly, the other is not.. The unfriendly way, which I do not recommend, is to disconnet the A/C line at any point in the systme and allow all the Freon to escape.. but this is very bad for the ozone layer.. the responsible way it to take it to a professional and have them remove it for you.. once the old freon is out the system needs vacuumed. This removes any moisture (Moisture BAD !) and makes it eaiser to put new freon in.. This is accomplished my hooking up the low pressure side, looks like a tire valve with a blue cap on it on the line going into the compressor, to a vacuum pump and drawing a vacuum of 20 - 30 mg Hg for 2 to 3 hours.. Vacuum pumps that work on compressed air are available on E-Bay for $20. Once this is done, the kit will have adaptors That go on the the high pressure (Red Tire valve looking thing) and the Blue Low Pressure side tire valve looking thing... No you need to hook up a Manifold gage to the system.. these are also available on E-Bay for around $30 Hook the blue side up to blue and red up to red.. Close all the valves.. Then hook up a can of freon to the yellow side in the middle of manifold gage.. Start the car turning the A/C on full blast..open the valve on the freon, then open the blue valve on the gage.. after 20 or so min.. all the freon from the can should go into the system an the compressor will kick on.. the compressor will not start until freon is in the system at a certain pressure.. Fill the system until you get 150 to 200 PSI on the high pressure side and 20 -30 psi on the lower pressure side. DO NOT ADD FREON WITH THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE OPEN THE CAN OF FREON COULD EXPOLODE OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR COMRESSOR...

you need to get a new computer(is located underneath your radio and has 3 sets of wires going into it on the right side)

in trunk on body by spare

www.techcapri.com has instructions on this.

the fuel pump relay is located under the dash right behind the console,you need to remove the engine control module.the relay is located behind it.

there are four nuts on the front of the car, they are grounds for the air bags tighten them and the light shuts off

I looked in a repair manual and it said that the gap for a 1.6 l is .040

Look in this web site for complete instructions: www.techcapri.com.

11 us gallons

Thermal relay is defective causing the fans not to run when they should. Replace the relay.

it could be a number of resons , but a common problem is the control module in the distributor if the fuel pump works and theres NO spark goning to the spark plugs from the coil its probly the control module in the distributor but also could be the coil so have the coil checked but it usally the contol module they uselly cost from 100 to 400 dollars , the best thing to do is buy a remanufactured distributor with a modulefor about 300 dollars and install it, to check the fuel pump remove the back seat and open the hatch remove the fuel line attach a fuel line to the pump leading to a container or bucket , and turn the key on fuel should run out , if not check the fuel pump circuit braker , behind the brain box behined the center consul

To put the top down on your '87; first reach between the seats, just under the edge of the hatch that will eventually cover the top. You'll find a lever that swings toward the driver side door. On mine, I have to click it twice to release both sides of the top. Then above each of the visors, there is a lever you must pull all the way over. This releases the pins on the front of the top. Now, on the end of each door, you'll see a small switch with an arrow on it. Click the switch and this releases the hatch. Now, standing outside, lift the back of the top so you can open the hatch. The hatch will remain in the up position. Then put the rear of the top back into the original position. Lift the front, toward the rear of the car, and your top will fold into place. Gently close the cover and you are topless!