Mitsubishi 3000 GT

To remove back bumper you need to start removing the interior panels in trunk then tail lights to access the nuts that hold it in and also there are some plastic inserts under neath the car that must be removed also. A new one will come already painted the origonal color of your car if you give them the vin for your car and assuming it is the original color. It takes quite a while to get it off and on so set a day aside and have the new one there so you will remember where all the nuts go. Good luck

I have a 1993 Mitsubishi 3000gt and the TCU is located under the console / dash. It is mounted by a metal bracket to the floor pan. You will need to remove the side carpet panels and the entire front console to access the TCU.

Depends on the year of the car. If the 3000gt is a 91-93 model then the oxygen sensor should be right before the catalytic converter sticking off of the exhaust pipe. If it is a 94-99 model then there will be one before the catalytic converter and one right after it as well.

Look for fuse box in Central fusebox Fuse #5 it is 15amp and is the same fuse which shares cigarette lighter Should be Blue in color Hope that helps Ray

google oil pressure sender wire loose on 3000gt. More than likely this is your problem, and you just have to re-connect the little wire that connects the sender to the guage in yoru center cluster.

-3KVT

Left side bottom of dash attached to the side of the fuse box.

This should help you out;

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1995-to-2005-pontiac-sunfire-6.htm

FriPilot

Go to 3SX.com and enjoy (watch the video of their 902 whp. and 720 wpft. animal!).

i had to have a rebuild on mine about 2 years ago when the timing belt jumped and caused a lot of damage i got a reman block but the head and all internals i bought new and with having someone put it together and back in because i was deployed at the time cost 2500 bucks not to bad i thought! but if i was you look on eBay i saw 2 or 3 for sale on there that might be worth looking into!

the 1992 3000gt vr4 had 300 horsepower and 307 lb-ft of torque. The quickest year was 1995 where the vr4 ran a quarter mile time of 13.5 seconds and a 0-60 time of 5.4 seconds.

You can order them from your local parts dealer and you can find a tone of them on ebay.... i think there tc105

at autozone.

just ask

they stop making the 3000 gt in 1999 :(

i think it means 3 diamonds?

There are access panels in the trunk area. Remove the panel and grab the socket that is burnt out. Turn counter-clockwise to unlock the pull out. the bulbs can be changed by pushing down lightly on the bulb and turning. Installation is the reverse of removal.

most nuts or bolts tighten clockwise (anti-clock to loosen) if the bolt is "reverse-thread" it should have small nicks or grooves about half way on the hex nut (the bit you put the spanner on)

Its located in the front of the motor toward the transmission. One of the bolts is easy to get to from the top and uses a 14mm socket. The cable from the starter is connected with a 13mm bolt and you have to unplug the other wire. The other bolt has to be taken out from the bottom. The best way is to jack the front end up and put jack stands under the axles. From the front of the car it will be above the exhaust to the passenger side (US). I recommend doing this job when the engine is cool. This job should take about 15 minutes.

its behind the trim panel in the pasenger side foot well

1991 to 1993 3000gt do not have a crank sensor. Only a cam sensor. And when does go out the car will not start or have a very irregular idle.

remove the back plastic cover in the hatch and youll see the back of the bulb, unscrew and replace.

The Mitsubishi electrical component you speak of (MD 113566) is labeled "ALT Relay" on the electrical box lid in the engine compartment, but it is actually a one-way conductive, transient suppression protection device (basically a surge protector). The component is installed to protect the ECU from voltage spikes induced on connected wires. The device operates by shunting excess current when the over load voltage of 0-24Vdc, Current 0.5A, time 0.5h is exceeded. It is a clamping device, suppressing all over-voltages above its breakdown voltage. It automatically resets when the overvoltage goes away, but absorbs much of the transient energy (coil dissipation of3W). It can be tested by checking the insulation resistance of 20M(ohms) between terminals 1, 2, 3 and 4. It has a Dielectric withstanding voltage of (RMS/50Hz) 550Vr.m.s between terminal 1, 2, 3 and 4. The rated switching voltage is 12VDC and rated load current is 0.25A. Additionally it's vibration is 17-200hz, 0.35mm. The terminals are

1. Bottom left (below the copper colored one)

2. Bottom Right (short one(cut flush))

3. Top left (copper one)

4. Top Right (has 1/16th inch split in middle)

A wiring diagram would go from terminal 1 and then a switch between terminal 1 and 2, then to terminal 2 then to a resistor then to terminal 3. Terminal 4 is not directly wired in it is the "lightning rod" (for lack of a better explanation)

i had this same problem on my 1991 dodge stealth the problem is with the iacv ( isle air control valve) this is located on the throttle body. simpley remove the 4 bolts holding the throttle body canclean it there should be a very smalll hole inside the throtle body. if this gets anything over it the car wont idle. that's the right way to fix the problem. if you don't want to take the time to do it right, then you can pay the extra money on the gas you will have to get to do it the second way. ( scond way {temp fix} ) located on the back of the throttle body you will find a switch connected to a wire that is connected to the gas peddle. there should be a bolt under the switch tightening this bolt will increase your idle rpms. increase it to 1,500 rpms that will get you by for a while but you will have to keep adjusting it. ( the correct way takes about 30 mins i HIGHLEY suggest that you take the time to do it right )good luck

could also be several other sensors, mafs mass air flow sensor is also quite common

Hi I donno if this will help or not? I own a 1998 Mitsubishi 3000 Gt, its just a standard 2 dr hatch front wheel drive. 3.0L SOHC in excellent condition.. when the mileage turned 98,000. On Oct, 10 2004. The owners manual said it was time to change the timing belt, so I had the timing belt and water pump done. I was told it was best to change the water pump at the same time to save me money in the future as a preventive, because of it being labor intensive,Also I did not use after market parts I had to order The O/E parts from Mitsubishi I also had new NGK platuim plugs and Max-Fire plug wires, ECM dyno tuning, emmssion test, engine coolent replaced, with a radiator flush, and the Fuel Injectors inspected and cleaned, the annual 3500 mile oil change and the air-fliter was changed also, the total cost for this tune up at my local speed shop was $790.54. I'll list out the part and labor cost that I was charged so you can get a run down idea ( Samsons Gargage Treated me very well)

1 O/E Timing Belt ..$104.28 1 O/E water pump.( New! not a rebuilt).. $128.88 NGK platuim long life spark plugs (6)..$13,41 -20% discount Max-fire plug wires(Custom color) LTW..$68,00 Prestone coolent...$ 7.00 Air Hog Air filter..$10,83 Parts Total.. $263.80 Dyno Tuning... $149.00 Sub Total.... $412.80 Labor cost ...$320.00 Plus Tennessee State Tax..$57.54 Grand total.. $790.43

Oil change with fliter.No/charge because of amount of work I had done. This does not include the custom work I had done to the brakes, clibers and rotors. that are HP performance from R&R Racing.. Hey a girl has to stop.. I Ivy

There are many factors. First, is if you are doing it or a shop is doing it. The parts will be more expensive at a shop as they get marked up. The cost of running a auto repair shop is crazy and that is reflected in your bill. Second is the quality of parts your using. If you buy cheesball parts like many from autozone (I hate to single out a company, but the failure rate I have seen warrants this opinion)you will spend less money today, but more when you replace them tommorrow. If you buy quality parts they are more expensive today but you won't have to replace them tommorrow. Thirdly, the phrase "Tune-up" varies. What I would consider a complete tune up is this: Profession fuel injection cleaning $70.00, Throttle bore cleaning and air induction service $50.00, Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter -varies depending on car from $200.00 to $1500.00. For example, A 1996 Chevy caprice with a 4.3l motor if I remember right ran around $800.00 for the cap, rotor wires and labor alone. I would guess around $500.00 for you car.

The tune up by the book will run about $600.00 because of the labor. That's what I got quoted by my Mitsubishi dealer.

**A Special Note about Oil & Filter changes -- the Mitsubishi / Stealth 3.0 engines use a Factory oil filter that has a Check Valve built in --- This prevents Dry starts and rapid engine wear, the check valve is NOT in all aftermarket filters.

The plastic pulley at the upperside of the window regulator gets weak and cracks. Once this happens it means buying a new regulator. If buying used check very carefully for cracking in this area.