Pest Control

• A commercial roach, ant, and spider spray.
• Put out commercial spider and silverfish traps.
• A homemade spider repellent.
• An exterminator.
• If its only a minor problem and you don't wish to kill them, catch and release them outside.
• etc.

I would use something more effective. Anything powder based and the powder part you need to kill the ants will just stay on top. Get a concentrate (liquid pesticide) from a hardware store and drench that way or use a stronger dust like delta in a hand duster and make a ring around each mound or use fire ant bait (probably best way although takes longer)

Early spring and late winter are the times of the year for ridding lawns of moss. Moss must be controlled while the weather still is cold. Warmer weather will be accompanied by the spore releases that re-establish or solidify mossy presences in lawns.

Red spots on the leaves of a eucalyptus tree could be caused by a fungus called Phytophthora. This fungus usually spreads to other parts of the tree and is not usually treatable.

His prices are relatively the same as most other exterminators.

If they are houseflies there are many common control tools, First enclose the area if not enclosed. Improve sanitation because they smell something. If it is a fly light trap indoors mounted strategically and you can address the entry and outdoors as well if needed with baits, zappers, air curtains, etc etc.

Barriers, compost, litter and manual removal, spraying, tilling, and weeding are ways to eliminate garden cutworms. As the larval stage of harmless, night-flying moths, the caterpillars in question (Noctuidae lepidopteran family) favor springtime feeding upon fresh above- and below-ground plant parts of asparagus, bean, cabbage, carrot, celery, corn, lettuce, pea, pepper, potato, and tomato plants as well as upon young turf-grasses. Tilling may expose and kill overwintering larvae near litter- or weed-filled borders, fields, meadows, and pastures whereas aluminum or cardboard plant-base collars, composted (not green manure so hospitable to egg-laying) amendments, larval and litter removal, and residual treatments with carbaryl, cyfluthrin or permethrin in the evening every two to four weeks will eliminate cutworms from spring to fall.

Foggers should not be used to kill lice. Heat should be used to kill the eggs and a pyrethrin based insecticide/shampoo to kill the adults.

Depending on the type of ant you are facing, this may or may not work. What I know for sure is that this will not work when you are facing a heavy carpenter ant infestation in Pickering. This area is home to thousands upon thousands of homes who will be facing an ant problem this coming spring. Borax acid is not recommended to exterminate these ants. A licensed and professional pest control company should only be dealing with ant removal in Pickering.

Very few do it any more for liability reasons, since many cars have been damaged. it won't harm your garden but since they usually announce it, I would cover them so they don't have to be washed so thoroughly.

No! There is nothing in Dawn dish soap that will chemically kill fleas or their eggs! It will smother them like any other soap & water combo! Quit looking for the cheap way out & buy the right product for your animals.

They tend to be more costly & require constant agitation. Most are WP's & not soluble like Orhene.

Emission of high-frequency sounds whose cycles are digitized to random variations and whose pitches discourage cockroaches, mice, and rats from feeding and nesting in attics and garages is the way in which the Ultrasound pest repeller works. Efficacy nevertheless requires an absence or paucity of furniture and outlets as well as a lack of such domesticated animals as chinchillas, gerbils, guinea pigs, hamsters, minks, and tarantulas whose behavior and hearing will be impacted.

the insect known as the Boll weevil

Black plastic sheeting, hoes and shovels, matches, pruners, and systemic weed killers are the best products for killing ground elder in the garden. The weed in question (Aeropodium podagraria) can be controlled by digging up roots, hoe-cutting foliage (which is edible between February and June as ground up seasoning or pasta ingredients), and treating with systemic weed killers. It also may be controlled by a coordinated approach of controlled burning, extreme trimming, and plastic sheeting, from which the ground will be solarized, the weed will die, and the topsoil will need to be replaced to prevent ground elder returns.

Yes, Clinic Ace can keep weeds under control around newly planted native hedges. The herbicide in question may be applied seven days before the hedges are planted. It tends to be applied post-planting when woody plants are at least two years old even though cultivators also tend to avoid using the glyphosate-active weed killer around hedge rows.

Mites' bodies are split into two sections. The front section is called the cephalothorax and the hind part is called the abdomen or the opisthosoma. Their mouth parts include jaws and palps. They also have four pairs of legs.

Dicamba, mecoprop, triclopyr, and 2,4-D are herbicides that kill weeds in fine fescue. The best known fine fescue is red fescue (Festuca rubra) because of fine leaves for soft matting, low fertilization and irrigation need, and shade and sun tolerances. It tends to overseed dormant Bermuda grass lawns and will tolerate established turfgrass herbicides except for 2,4-D + dichlorprop + dicamba.

There is a new solution I came across that a company is working on it is called The Beaver Defeater. It will stop beavers from building dams in critical areas such as culverts to stop the damages caused by Beaver flooding. You can check out the device for yourself at http://www.thebeaverdefeater.com

Most outlets that have an aisle with bug sprays.

Applying algaecides and chlorine, monitoring pH balance, preventing algal build-ups, and skimming food sources and pool pests are ways to eliminate backswimmers from pools. The insects in question cannot live where regular anti-algae scrubs, insect removal, and pH checks are instituted.

The citronella products work pretty well. There are also multiple products for the body. They respond well to light traps also.

You can get some results from a fogger, but you can never get it concentrated enough to kill all the fleas unless the area is extremely small. Fogs also have no residual, so after it airs out-it's gone. They like to go down to the base of your carpet fibers, under furniture, cushions, etc. which is why pros don't fog only for fleas, they pretty much spray everything. I recommend an aerosol Precor 2000 which can be used to treat small areas by a homeowner and it contains what most pros use. You have to do something with any host animals that go in and out to keep them from bringing in more fleas later and vacuum frequently, discarding the bag or storing vac outside until after fleas are gone and bag disposed of for good.

No insecticide kills the pupal stage so they will still emerge into the chemical even if treatment is effective for up to 2 weeks, but if you treated everything they should also die. Vibration stimulates them to emerge and contact the residual chemical so frequent vacuuming helps speed it along.