Small Engines

It is usually both on the blower shroud and stamped into the valve cover.

its right by the gear shifter kinda under the frame

That means the auger is the only moving part that throws the snow. Two stage snowblowers have an auger to move the snow to the fast moving impeller.

you can use cars that you borrow after your own car gets into an accident.

You can steer with the handle bars but the most effective is to "Steer with the throttle" That means turning the way you want to go nailing the throttle to get the back end to slide then counter steer

Well i would say it is for sure a Honda i have a 1985 250r 2-stroke that is my faveorite and i also have a 1986 350x they are verry nice to

Replace. Fule line?

Initial setting: Close needle valve (rotate clockwise) until just seated (DO NOT FORCE) and then open (turn counterclockwise) 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Start engine and let it warm up (about 5 minutes).

Fine tune: After engine has warmed up, slowly close needle valve until engine starts to stall for lack of fuel, then slowly open needle valve until engines starts to stall from flooding. Set the needle valve at midpoint between the two.

If the engine starts to sputter while in service, open needle valve 1/8 to 1/4 turn for a slightly richer mixture.

How do you adjust a float on a Tecumseh carb?

About 105 mph give or take

8 oz of oil per gallon of gas

They are out of business, 2+ years, good luck finding parts.

i have 5 hp Tecumseh that goes about 30-45 at top speed and my other 16hp duromax goes way faster so maby 60-70 mph

probably the f-8.The zrt were very heavy plus the f-8 is ten years newer.

Here are a few basic tips for diagnosing a no start condition on a lawn mower or snow blower engine.

Briggs, Tecumseh...etc etc etc all should have a nice blue spark a good snap across the spark plugs electrodes should be seen felt and heard, if its a weak spark the unit will not fire and consequently wont start, don't forget 99% of these type engines that wont start are due to old/dirty fuel and clogged air filters. If this is the case, Dump the gas tank blow out the fuel lines, remove the carb. bowl(note the position of the bowl before removing...mark the inside) with carb cleaner spray the entire carb out spraying the small interior orifices and reinstall bowl with a new gasket and fill tank with new fuel. Prime three four times and give it a couple of hefty pulls and she should start. Let it run for a few minutes to burn off the residual cleaner fluids.

If there is weak or no spark...check the magneto/ flywheel as being the culpret, consult a certified small engine technician if you never did this work before.

WARNING: NEVER turn the mower blade by hand without FIRST removing the SPARK PLUG as you can fire up the engine and cut your fingers off!!!!

If the pull chord wants to pull your arm out of socket (this is called kick back)you definitely have an out of time engine, take off the top cover(pull chord assembly) and check the "Key Way" for wear etc., located under the bolt holding the flywheel on to the shaft. Again consult a tech. if you are not sure.

Always be sure to remove the spark plug before doing any testing and wear protective goggles to prevent injury.

45-50 mph

almost all go kart engines run the same rpm so it wont go anyfaster it will have more power but wont go faster then any other motor unless you change the gears they normally run about 3400 rpm

Gear oil is actually an oil as used in transmissions and differentials. grease is thick sticky stuff (possibly like the one that reckons oil is grease) that wouldn't be much good in a gearbox as it would be unable to lubricate all the parts

A row of cylinders in an engine is known as a "bank" of cylinders.

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Horsepower and cc(size of engine) do not relate like that. It could be a slow moving lawnmower engine of 5-6 hp or a highly tuned dirt bike engine of 30 or more hp.

yeah they suck---------gets clogged with snow and doesn't throw snow but 5 feet----they went cheap to keep price low to sell at home depot------now they'll use Chinese motors-----yes I'm mad cause i have the same model and they know of the problem and put out an r-3 upgrade kit that you have to pay for....i Couldn't afford the machine really let alone the upgrade kit---I'll never buy ariens again and tell anyone i know about them

Yes it has a auto choke

Hello, My opinion on the proper oil for a "B" is based on nothing more than the ownership of 3 of the little beasts spanning some 12-15 years. I'm just a shade tree mechanic who once duct taped the handle of a badminton racquet, one end to the bottom of the battery well cover, the other to the L U C U S fuel pump so I could wack it when it chose to malfunction. Be that as it may, I never used anything other than hardware store oil in any of my "B"s. Given that I live on Bainbridge Island, 7 miles W of Seattle by ferry, where the weather is neither hot or cold and nothing much very bad happens (except when the odd mountain blows up), so I use non detergent 30-weight (and limit driving when there's ash in the air). I seem to remember being told that the "B" engine's heritage traces to industrial motors which, by their nature, are not high strung. Indeed, I do not use high test gasoline either, preferring to let the clutch out in gear rather that pay a premium for premium just to keep the little blighter from cooking on and on and on and . . . . Marsh Hello, My opinion on the proper oil for a "B" is based on nothing more than the ownership of 3 of the little beasts spanning some 12-15 years. I'm just a shade tree mechanic who once duct taped the handle of a badminton racquet, one end to the bottom of the battery well cover, the other to the L U C A S fuel pump so I could wack it when it chose to malfunction. Be that as it may, I never used anything other than hardware store oil in any of my "B"s. Given that I live on Bainbridge Island, 7 miles W of Seattle by ferry, where the weather is neither hot or cold and nothing much very bad happens (except when the odd mountain blows up), so I use non detergent 30-weight (and limit driving when there's ash in the air). I seem to remember being told that the "B" engine's heritage traces to industrial motors which, by their nature, are not high strung. Indeed, I do not use high test gasoline either, preferring to let the clutch out in gear rather that pay a premium for premium just to keep the little blighter from cooking on and on and on and . . . . Marsh Hello, My opinion on the proper oil for a "B" is based on nothing more than the ownership of 3 of the little beasts spanning some 12-15 years. I'm just a shade tree mechanic who once duct taped the handle of a badminton racquet, one end to the bottom of the battery well cover, the other to the L U C A S fuel pump so I could wack it when it chose to malfunction. Be that as it may, I never used anything other than hardware store oil in any of my "B"s. Given that I live on Bainbridge Island, 7 miles W of Seattle by ferry, where the weather is neither hot or cold and nothing much very bad happens (except when the odd mountain blows up), so I use non detergent 30-weight (and limit driving when there's ash in the air). I seem to remember being told that the "B" engine's heritage traces to industrial motors which, by their nature, are not high strung. Indeed, I do not use high test gasoline either, preferring to let the clutch out in gear rather that pay a premium for premium just to keep the little blighter from cooking on and on and on and . . . . Marsh

Look under the exhaust pipes on the clutch side of the engine.

It depends on what kind of chainsaw it is. I have many different types of stihl brand chainsaws and there is not a spot for "typical engine oil" like in your car. These machines are 2 stroke engines and require you to mix the oil with the gas. The oil can be picked up @ any home depot or lowes or really any hardware store. Don't feel dumb asking questions at these stores. It will save you alot of money to ask questions.

I just brought my fuel solenoid into the small engine repair shop and this is what i got. They told me my fuel solenoid is one, just a pain in the ass. It's supposed to prevent backfire or something of that nature. Two, it was very expensive to replace. I know that I had electrical and fuel both going to it. And I was burning fuel I put directly into the carb. So it had to be something in between which was this fuel solenoid. When I brought it in, it was funny to see that they just clipped the pin so that it didn't block fuel flow to the carb. This will however keep a constant fuel flow into the carb so I had to add a fuel shut off valve in the line before the solenoid. This should help with fuel problems with this expensive part. .

This part is what I call: PITA (pain in the @ss or MM (money maker) and when I diag mine to be defective (not worn out) I unscrewed it from the bottom carb bowl and removed a small seal at the end (pulled right off) and all is good now. Just overnight my engine would run out of fuel in about 30 minutes and restart after it cooled down.

MikeyK