Small Engines

Gear oil is actually an oil as used in transmissions and differentials. grease is thick sticky stuff (possibly like the one that reckons oil is grease) that wouldn't be much good in a gearbox as it would be unable to lubricate all the parts

almost all go kart engines run the same rpm so it wont go anyfaster it will have more power but wont go faster then any other motor unless you change the gears they normally run about 3400 rpm

A row of cylinders in an engine is known as a "bank" of cylinders.

'

Horsepower and cc(size of engine) do not relate like that. It could be a slow moving lawnmower engine of 5-6 hp or a highly tuned dirt bike engine of 30 or more hp.

yeah they suck---------gets clogged with snow and doesn't throw snow but 5 feet----they went cheap to keep price low to sell at home depot------now they'll use Chinese motors-----yes I'm mad cause i have the same model and they know of the problem and put out an r-3 upgrade kit that you have to pay for....i Couldn't afford the machine really let alone the upgrade kit---I'll never buy ariens again and tell anyone i know about them

Yes it has a auto choke

Hello, My opinion on the proper oil for a "B" is based on nothing more than the ownership of 3 of the little beasts spanning some 12-15 years. I'm just a shade tree mechanic who once duct taped the handle of a badminton racquet, one end to the bottom of the battery well cover, the other to the L U C U S fuel pump so I could wack it when it chose to malfunction. Be that as it may, I never used anything other than hardware store oil in any of my "B"s. Given that I live on Bainbridge Island, 7 miles W of Seattle by ferry, where the weather is neither hot or cold and nothing much very bad happens (except when the odd mountain blows up), so I use non detergent 30-weight (and limit driving when there's ash in the air). I seem to remember being told that the "B" engine's heritage traces to industrial motors which, by their nature, are not high strung. Indeed, I do not use high test gasoline either, preferring to let the clutch out in gear rather that pay a premium for premium just to keep the little blighter from cooking on and on and on and . . . . Marsh Hello, My opinion on the proper oil for a "B" is based on nothing more than the ownership of 3 of the little beasts spanning some 12-15 years. I'm just a shade tree mechanic who once duct taped the handle of a badminton racquet, one end to the bottom of the battery well cover, the other to the L U C A S fuel pump so I could wack it when it chose to malfunction. Be that as it may, I never used anything other than hardware store oil in any of my "B"s. Given that I live on Bainbridge Island, 7 miles W of Seattle by ferry, where the weather is neither hot or cold and nothing much very bad happens (except when the odd mountain blows up), so I use non detergent 30-weight (and limit driving when there's ash in the air). I seem to remember being told that the "B" engine's heritage traces to industrial motors which, by their nature, are not high strung. Indeed, I do not use high test gasoline either, preferring to let the clutch out in gear rather that pay a premium for premium just to keep the little blighter from cooking on and on and on and . . . . Marsh Hello, My opinion on the proper oil for a "B" is based on nothing more than the ownership of 3 of the little beasts spanning some 12-15 years. I'm just a shade tree mechanic who once duct taped the handle of a badminton racquet, one end to the bottom of the battery well cover, the other to the L U C A S fuel pump so I could wack it when it chose to malfunction. Be that as it may, I never used anything other than hardware store oil in any of my "B"s. Given that I live on Bainbridge Island, 7 miles W of Seattle by ferry, where the weather is neither hot or cold and nothing much very bad happens (except when the odd mountain blows up), so I use non detergent 30-weight (and limit driving when there's ash in the air). I seem to remember being told that the "B" engine's heritage traces to industrial motors which, by their nature, are not high strung. Indeed, I do not use high test gasoline either, preferring to let the clutch out in gear rather that pay a premium for premium just to keep the little blighter from cooking on and on and on and . . . . Marsh

Look under the exhaust pipes on the clutch side of the engine.

It depends on what kind of chainsaw it is. I have many different types of stihl brand chainsaws and there is not a spot for "typical engine oil" like in your car. These machines are 2 stroke engines and require you to mix the oil with the gas. The oil can be picked up @ any home depot or lowes or really any hardware store. Don't feel dumb asking questions at these stores. It will save you alot of money to ask questions.

I just brought my fuel solenoid into the small engine repair shop and this is what i got. They told me my fuel solenoid is one, just a pain in the ass. It's supposed to prevent backfire or something of that nature. Two, it was very expensive to replace. I know that I had electrical and fuel both going to it. And I was burning fuel I put directly into the carb. So it had to be something in between which was this fuel solenoid. When I brought it in, it was funny to see that they just clipped the pin so that it didn't block fuel flow to the carb. This will however keep a constant fuel flow into the carb so I had to add a fuel shut off valve in the line before the solenoid. This should help with fuel problems with this expensive part. .

This part is what I call: PITA (pain in the @ss or MM (money maker) and when I diag mine to be defective (not worn out) I unscrewed it from the bottom carb bowl and removed a small seal at the end (pulled right off) and all is good now. Just overnight my engine would run out of fuel in about 30 minutes and restart after it cooled down.

MikeyK

yes

you have to know the make of the carbeurator. Kehin and Mikuni make most of them i know of.

The clearance is 0.004-0.006" and the link to the video on YouTube is below.

I had a 1995 Formula SS and the factory rated horsepower was 115. This motor had great torque and was quick off the line

you have to have at least a car licence.

The fastest stock, production atv is either the Yamaha 350 Banshee or the Suzuki Quadzilla but this is highly debated. Modified or custom atv's can go faster.

Tecumseh made most, Briggs and Straton engines were used, but not many.

In 1980 Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) were standardized using a seventeen digit system. Prior to 1980 manufacturers used VINs unique to their own company.

not yet but I know Honda has one of the first ones on their Goldwing motorcycle.......but good question as it might happen in the future.........

A Snowmobiler, Snowmobiles (Sno`mo`beels`)

.005" for the intake and .007" for the exhaust

The best portable camping generators will depend on a few factors. The major factor will depend on what you will be hooking up to your generator.

Somewhere beetween 20 to 27 depending on the weight of the rider

You know one thing about chaos?

It's beer...

absolutly not you juvenile. goodness me.

I agree with this above, But dude in UK barely anything is legal!