I have the same problem and am just going to try to open up the door
How to install drive belt for a 2001 suzuki esteem gle 1.8
to answer this question with would be too difficult to explane, its better to spend the 20 bucks and get the maintenace manual it will show you exactly how to do it
Too many bangs under the steering wheel I reckon. Your turn signal/multi switch has quit working and must be replaced, take the two halfs of the steering column cover off and you should be able to get at it.
where is the distributor on an 2001 suzuki esteem
The wiring color code for a 1998 Suzuki Esteem is easy to follow, and the wires are easy to identify. The radio battery constant 12 volt + wire is white, the accessory switched 12 volt + wire is white/black, the ground wire is black, and the illumination wire is red/yellow. For the speakers, the front left speaker wires (+,-) are black/orange and orange, and the right front speaker wires (+,-) are red/black and red. For the rear speakers, the rear left speakers (+,-) are light green/black and light green, and the right rear speakers (+,-) are gray/red and red.
If it's anything like a 1996 esteem there is no fan belt. It has an electric fan. Check for a bad relay in the fuse box under the hood first ( they are cheap to replace, about 10 bucks). Then try the fan motor.
I have been around and around this with the "experts" at the Stealership and I am looking at the same diagrams that they have. They are wrong!! Everybody says that it is a 3/8" square drive plug, NorthEast of the driver's side CV axle but there is no such plug there. What you want to do is locate the speedo cable! (well sort of) These cars don't really have a true mechanical speedo cable. What they have is a little drive gear that creates a signal and sends that signal through a wire to the electronic speedometer. On the Esteem you will see a black plug with wires going to it, right behind that bracket that holds the two shift linkage cables. Think of it above the differential. Just look at the shift cables and look right behind the bracket that holds those cables. There is a 10mm bolt holding the plug in place. You'll need a very long extension. Once that small bolt is freed, you can pop that black plug and wires right out. On the end of the plug will be a plastic gear, it should be oily. I believe the gear case holds about 4.2 pints/2.1 quarts. Good luck!
Open the hood, and it's pretty much straight ahead. Look for a metal ring (about the size of a one-dollar coin), and pull it out. That should be your dip stick - you shouldn't have to wrench on it, it might be a little stiff, but remember that it's meant to come out.
Behind the headlight assembly is a large weather boot. Grasp the small portion that the wires come into and pull it straight out to remove the wiring harness. Grasp the large weather boot from the bottom and pull it up. Work your way around the rim and remove it. Yank it off the headlight bulb.
You should then see the headlight bulb and a large wire holding it in place. At the bottom of the assembly is a clasp that holds the wire in place. Work the wire out of the clasp and pull it all the way up. The headlight should now be free and able to be removed. Remove it and replace it with a new one. Align the three tabs of the bulb accordingly; you'll see two of the slots for these tabs at the bottom, the third is at the top. Make sure that the bulb is inserted completely underneath the wire hold-down. This hold-down is required to keep the bulb from moving around. Ensure that you do not touch the bulb with your bare fingers.
With the bulb inserted, push the wire hold-down down into place and lock it into the clasp. Push the large weather boot back on, taking note of the "TOP" label. Push the center portion of this boot around the back of the headlight bulb. Reinstall the wiring harness and test the light.
Loosen bolt on arm to release tension, remove wires from back, remove arm bolt & bolt at 6 o clock, reverse to install. Use pry bar to tighten belt before tightening arm bolt.
It depends on what year you are looking for. A used Suzuki Esteem can cost between $12,769-$15,937 for a 2002.
P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire
Symptoms.
Engine may stumble or miss
Engine may be hard to start
you may notice no issues
Cause
Failing spark plugs or spark plug wires
Bad coil or coil pack
Failing oxygen sensor(s)
Bad fuel injector or more than one
Stuck exhaust valve
Bad catalytic converter
EGR valve or valve passage clogging
Bad camshaft position sensor
Bad PCM or ECM
The Fix
Best first action is a tune up, new plugs, wires, inspect all hoses and wire connections then reset the code. If it returns you will need to narrow it down to a system, coils and coil packs should be tested, catalytic converters for function ( do you smell rotten eggs?). A misfire that jumps cylinders could indicate a lean condition, do you have any other codes along with the 300? this will help clue you in to the source, check valve function to make sure they are opening and closing fully.
This is probably pone of the most difficult codes to troubleshoot, so start with the basics and work your way into the more expensive options, in many cases a good old tune up solves the problem, back it up with a fuel system cleaning and see where you stand.
the relay is located in the bonnet & 2 nos 10 amps fuse under the steering module.
Suzuki Esteem? Don't all parts just pull off if you yank hard enough? SRSly thoug, just jam some oiled cardboard in there and you'll never know the difference.
When the old one becomes noisy, weak, or stops pumping fuel altogether. Assuming the fuel filter is not clogged, the fuel pump fuse is not blown, and the fuel pump relay is good.