Suzuki

Will a Suzuki RF 600 fairing fit on a Suzuki Katana

Most new lead acid batteries are shipped dry and need to be filled with electrolyte and charged before installation. See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150334 for complete instructions. Newer sealed batteries are shipped with a partial charge but need to be "topped off" prior to installation. If a new battery has sufficient charge to start the vehicle, the vehicle's alternator (or generator) will top off the charge over time.

http://www.suzukiinfo.com/

the new maruti 800 replacement car with old engine

yess

"their is a 4 digit code that is needed to be out in for the stero to work which can only be accessed by your local Suzuki dealer their is 31 different codes" Not always, I work at a car rental company and we are having the same problem. I talked with the service manager, who we do alot of favors for, and he said that some Forenza radios are not from the factory even though they look identical. He called the radios manufactuer for us and the rep said that he didnt know of any codes for their radios. If you have a list of these 31 numbers I'd love to get a hold of it. This is the second time we have had this problem and Id like to keep from having to buy another stereo at WorstBuy. Try this site -- http://www.suzuki-forums.com/general-car-audio-video-electronics/12552-hi-help.html -- it worked for me twice.

Well it would be nice to know what you mean by WILL NOT go into neutral,

Anyway.................Lets see turn the ignition key on so you have dash lights etc, Jog the bike back and forth gently while trying to shift the gears, what you are looking for is the green neutral light to come on on the dash.If this does not work............ turn the ignition off......... jog the bike GENTLY WITH THE CLUTCH IN AND WHILE THE BIKE IS STILL MOVING A VERY small amount release the clutch.........turn the ignition back on..........................Now pull the clutch in and again attempt to shift the gears and activate the green neutral light.

If you cant shift down, shift up, if the green lite blinks you've shifted thru neutral go back the other way.

When you get a green light pull the clutch in and start the bike.

Other Problems.............. You may have an airlock in the clutch line Take it to dealer and have it bled or get a knowledgable person to help you bleed the line.

Is your battery OK.

Is your kill switch activated.

There should be an adjustment screw on the throttle box on the handle bars or on the carburetor

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398 cc base

1992 SUZUKI LT-F250

it sends like a message to the computer telling the car when to switch gears. When that goes out u probably only have the set gears below drive.

The tenth character of the VIN is the year character. If it was "Y" it would be 2000. But zero means that year is not specified directly

It looks like Krista Allen, but thats just a guess. That girl is Sports Illustrated swimsuit model Michelle Lombardo.

Well, it's been many years since I had a Suzuki Samurai with 1.3 engine...best source for you is to find a HAYNES manual and follow through their instructions.

BUT, at a high level review, here's how I would approach it to at least get things to the point the engine would run, even if not at its top efficiency or smog rules setup: The "#1" cylinder is the one closest to the front of the engine. Follow it's spark plug wire back to the distributor, and remove the distributor cap. One end of the rotor will have a metal tab...you are close to the #1 firing position when the rotor metal tab approaches where the #1 cylinder spark plug wire connects to the distributor post.

Also remove the valve cover (just a couple or 4 bolts)so you can watch the #1 rocker panels for intake and exhaust to cyl #1.

Pull the #1 sparkplug so you can look in the hole or jently probe w/wood stick. (so you can see when the piston is at the actual absolute TOP (highest) DEAD CENTER position.

Put a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley (make sure your ignition key is off so you don't accidently start the engine), and crank it slowly clockwise while watching the two valves for #1 cylinder. You want the piston to be as top as possible, with BOTH valves closed (that is, no slack in them)...that is "top dead center", and at the same time the rotor from the distributor should be pointed toward the #1 cylinder spark plug connection. If the valves are not both tight, or the piston is not at 'top dead center', or the distributor rotor is not pointed toward the #1 spark plug wire, you aren't there, keep slowly rotating the engine in a clockwise position until you are at top dead center, with the distributor pointed toward #1 sparkplug wire, and both intake and exhaust values "tight". THAT is top dead center on your compression stroke!.

Once you have all those things going for you you have reached "top dead center" for cylinder #1. ISTR that timing should be around 10 degrees BEFORE top dead center, so back the crankshaft enough that you are now 10 degrees before top dead center. hook a wire up to the distributor spark plug wire, with the cap on and the ignition switch on, and slowly rotate the DISTRIBUTOR until the power is through to the #1 spark plug wire.

OK, you are now 'static timed' to about 10 degree before top dead center. Give the engine a try, see if it fires up. NOTE this is NOT as good as doing an official timing as described in the Haynes manual...but it should be close enough to get your engine into a running condition.

Note that the Samurai's and many other engines use a master computer control to auto adjust things. So sometimes you might be adjusting the timing to advance or retard it, yet the computer is also sensing when the timing is set, and making adjustments via the computer to alter the timing advanced or retarded from what it really is to what the computer wants it to be. So sometimes doing seat of the pants adjustments like this can be tough...the computer will "fight you".

The above procedures have worked for me on many different vehicles, but it is a backyard shade tree mechanic mechanism. (To show how much by the seat of the pants...I used to adjust my '72 Pontial LeMans w/350 cubic inch V-8 by getting it close...and then driving up a hill as fast as I could. If I didn't hear 'pinging', I would then advance the timing just a tiny bit and race up the same hill again. If I made it up faster, great, my timing was better! Eventually I heard pinging from the engine, indicating pre-ignition and possible engine damage if left like it was...so at that point I was advanced just a bit too much, would back off (retard) the ignition just a bit, and try racing up the same hill all over again. Eventually I would be able to get my fastest acceleration up the very steep hill, without hearing any pinging from the engine. When I got to that point, I was done timing the engine. Gee, was it 7 degrees BTDC, 10 degrees BTDC, other? I don't have the faintest idea...I just know the engine was performing the best it could and giving the quickest acceleration without any pinging. It worked for me...but probably would not pass any "smog inspections".

So use all of this advice with your own caution. While what I described should be able to get a completely off-timed vehicle close enough to run, you really need to get the Haynes manual and follow the real precise instructions on how to set the timing.

Good luck!

I was told to purchase the hose connector for the garden hose to the engine. It is a fitting that may be already on some models. Then purchase fogging oil and shoot it into intake at 1500 RPMS and run for 5 to 10 minutes for winterizing the engine. Then to be sure to air blow out the exhaust lines to be sure all the water is out of them and add fuel stabilizer to a full tank of fuel to reduce condensation in the tank... Not sure that helps - I'm still trying to get my act together on this process...

The SUZUKI font an edit version of Helvetica 93 Black Extended The "K" has been edited to customise the SUZUKI to avoid Royalties from the Font Creator.

their are a list of codes that you can put in to turn the radio i can get them for you if needed

Yes try to find the same year though

3.1l

Yes it is an Indian Company.

about 186 miles per hour.. although this figure is dependent on your elevation, rider weight, outisde temperature, year of the bike, what tires you are using (a 190/55 track tire for example has a larger radius than a 190/50 normal tire) and even if you took your mirrors off. by radar, at sea-level, my 2007 gsxr1000 will do about 184mph.. my speedometer will show 191mph (i took the governer out) but speedometers are always off. bike has a slip on SBK exhaust and diablo corsa 3 190/55's ps: if anyone tells you that a gsxr1000 does 200mph (or any liter or lesser bike for that matter), tell them to shut the **** up and tell them that MCN tried to get a hayabusa gsx1300r to do 200mph (again, 200mph radar speed, not 200mph speedometer speed) and they MELTED A PISTON while trying.

It is the plug with the number 4 written on on the very bottom of the crankcase.

First, you have to remove the driver's seat. There is a lock under the right side passenger foot peg, insert your ignition key into the lock. Once you turn the key you will hear a click sound, now you can remove the seat. Under the seat is a tray holding your tool kit, lift it up and under it is the battery. Now, unscrew the positive and negative battery cables. Lift the battery up and out of the holder. Under each terminal is a rectangular nut, make sure you don't lose these it's hard to get replacement nuts. That's it, to replace the battery reverse the removal process. If you have to get a new battery make sure you have the old battery with you when you go buy a new one. The old battery has a set of letters and numbers you need to get the right battery. It's really pretty easy, so good luck.

There is a geared dial on the back of the headlight, accessed from the engine compartment. Usually located on the side of the lamp towards the radiator. Turning the gear or in some cases gears located adjust the lamp up down and to each side.