Suzuki

Suzuki means "bell tree" The name Suzuki is a family name as is used on the automobile. Just like Ford.

750 Ml or 0,75 Liters

First off park the car on a true level surface so that the vehicle may drain out properly. Second, Let the car cool down for at least 90 minuets; not 89, 90 period. Next pull the dip stick and oil cap so that the car may drain faster then if you left these items on. Next place oil drain pan beneath the plug and pull the oil pan plug. (Lefty loosy, Righty tighty; "normally") (turn the plug to the left to loosen it) let all oil drain. I like to pull the filter while this is going on so I have something to do. Then after the filter is off and while the car is still draining check the mount on the car where the filter is to make sure all of the old seal and all debree is cleaned off of this surface. Next, pull the new filter out of the pakage and place some Valvoline 5w-30 around the new rubber seal on the filter for lubrication. Then screw the new filter on to the filter mount where you took the old one off of. Remember the oil filter only needs to be hand tight, 'NOT' cranked the heck on there. After the filter is on and all of the oil is drained out put the oil drain plug back in the hole snug but not too tight, because if you do tighten the plug anymore more than just a gentle snugness you might end up stripping out the threads.(period) So after the oil plug has been gently hand tighten/snugged and with the oil filter on you my proceed to put 4.5-5 QTS. into the engine where you had pulled the oil cap off of to begin with. After the car has oil in it put the cap back on (hand tight). Put the dipstick back in. Check the plug, filter, cap & dipstick to make sure that they are all tight. Start car to achieve filtration of the new oil and to fill the filter up along with all oil galleries. Then turn off the car let it sit for 10-15 min. and check oil level with the dip stick. Remember to "check it fresh" by taking the d-stick out wiping it off then placing it back in and pulling it out again for an accurate check. DO NOT OVER FILL EVEN OVER AN OUNCE BECAUSE YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CAR-PERIOD...... Finally, when your all done do a final check of everything to make sure there are no leaks (do it while the car is on).......................... have no fun.....

yes ive had a little bit of trouble with mine when its 55 to 60 degrees out...any colder and it just flat out wont start....not sure if somethings wrong with mine either but yes ive had that same issue

Take it to a professional. This is not a DIY job. Serious engine damage will occur if done incorrectly. What model Suzuki needs the timing belt changed? I used to have a number of mid-late 80s Samurai's and it was time consuming but not too difficult to do if you are comfortable wrenching a bit. The Suzuki Sidekicks and Geo Trackers used basically the same 1300/1600 cc engine, and the following would probasbly hold for them as well. Haynes manuals step you through the process pretty good. It's been a while but I'll sketch it out from memory off the top of my head to give you an idea of the complexity. If the following makes your head spin then don't attempt it. But if you are handy with a wrench, and can read and follow instructions in the Haynes manual, it is well within the 'moderate backyard mechanic' type work. Do you change your own brake pads, oil, radiator hoses? Have some metric sockets and wrenches? If so you should be well capable of changing the timing belt, it just takes a while longer than those other procedures. My guess is maybe 4-6 hours work the 1st time you do it. When putting on a new timing belt I would also flush and refill the radiator coolant, and if the radiator hoses are more than 2 years old probably buy new ones and replace them too. And a new fan belt too. You are going to have all this apart, now is the time to do preventative maintenance so save effort later. My experience is with '86 - '88 Suzuki Samurai's: A much maligned and capable off roader. My son and I each had one...I put 250,000 miles on mine before I got rid of it, and a lot of that was with severe desert and snow off-roading, my son had 180,000 on his. During the course of time we had them we did numerous engine rebuilds and drivetrain swaps. When I first had mine I was just an "oil & coolant" change type guy. Now I'll tackle just about anything that can be done until you need services of a machine shop. I can't think of any vehicle that is actually easier to work on than a Samurai, other than maybe an original air cooled VW Bug. The parts are light. Access is easier than on modern sedans, especially if you take the time to pull the radiator and grill first. Not scared off yet?: This should be done with engine stone cold, and you are going to be working under the car for a bit of the work...I always found a large piece of cardboard underneath really helped me slide around, and made it easier to find any screws or bolts you might drop. And a decent set of metric wrenches and sockets are in order. I think on this job you will be using mostly 10mm, with maybe a few 12mm and a 14mm at one point. Phillips and flat screwdrivers for the engine splash guard underneath and the radiator hoses. High level overview of the way I would do it. (Note: not all steps are absolutely necessary, but I have found overall taking this route is easier.) > Drain & remove Radiator > Remove Front Grill (makes it much easier to access the front of the engine) > Remove fan assembly and fan belt > Remove crankcase pulley > Remove plastic cover off front of engine > This exposes the timing belt > Align engine at 'top dead center' of cylinder #1 before removing old belt. > Look closely at alignment marks on both gears > Put on new belt and then follow Haynes instructions for more details on setting it up right. ... From here I had started to go into details about the rest, but by now you have an idea of the job and if you want to tackle it. I don't want to put all the details I remember here, because I don't want someone to try to do the job with only these comments and without getting a manual. If you think you want to try this and want to correspond by email first for more details, drop me a line at prhkgh@comcast.net Suzuki's are fun, I really miss mine. But it was getting harder and harder to smog it as the carburators were junk, ran rich, and would screw up the catalytic converters. After 250,000 miles I finally got tired of it...especially since I changed jobs and no longer had time for week long desert camping trips. Good Luck!

The oil that lubricates the motor also lubricates the transmission, so there is no dipstick for the transmission. There is only a sightglass on the right side by the foot peg.

your manual should show you as I am not sure on stock adjustment. the rear carburetor has an adjustment screw on top just back from where it goes into the cylinder. it is recessed in a screw hole on the right side of bike from riding view. the front carb has one on the left side and is just in front of throttle cam. refer to parts finder online for your local shop. they sometimes have online parts finders. enter the info they request and go to carburetor section. it should have a blow up view and parts id #'s you can refer to. a manual would be handy and your local shop should be able to guide you to the adjustments out if in stock form. if pipes installed and filter jets are necessary for that if you are not experienced with these types of carburetors contact your local shop. hope this helps you as air mixture can be a bandaid for a problem with carburetor issues.

I have 2004 model and the manual says with a filter change 2.9 litres and without a filter change 2.6 litres.

3.1 quarts buddy .....i have the exact same bike .............anyway just google your ? and ull see that im right

I have a 2007 SUzuki Boulevard that has blown the main fuse twice. Each time I've taken it to the shop, they don't find anything. What year is your's?

lukedavi@gmail.com

Check the Carborator Height.

This can sometimes cause the Carb bowl to over fill, which sends out fumes.

This was the verdict I found when mine smelled

1. "We're in a giant car heading towards a brick wall and everyone's arguing over where they're going to sit."
2. "We're interdependent with nature, but we treat it as if we are the lords of nature."
3. "The way we're living, we're going to burn up this planet."

I believe the jimny is the same vehicle marketed in the US as a Samurai? If so, the fuse box is under the dash on the left side of the car, has a brown pop off cover. Most of the wiring harness exits the back of the fuse box straight through the firewall. If you look in the engine compartment you will see the big wiring harness, about an inch in diameter, where it comes through, near where the steering column comes through. It uses the larger spade-tipped fuses...not old round ones, not the new mini-fuses. At least that's what was used on the 4 Samurai's I've owned. (2 1986s, one 1987, one 1998.) Hope that helps.

Take it back to the dealer.

Yes, this is typically possible on this vehicle.

The 4 spark plugs are under the Air box. First take off the gas tank and then the air box and you will find the spark plug wires. Take those off and remove the sparkplugs to change.

There is a short all metal strap which goes to one of the air cleaner mounting bolts

just in front of the battery terminal. Bolt it to the frame there..

Have you figured this out yet, I have the same question and cant find anyone that knows.

The battery box location is hidden under the bike

in front of the back tire.

You will need to Disconnect the battery terminals

from the battery and remove the 2 screws from the bottom of the

battery box one on each side, once removed

pry open the battery box the battery should slide straight

down and out.

Because of the batteries location removal can be difficult .....

For ease in removing the 2 screws on the bottom of the box

and prying open the box and sliding out the battery .........

its BEST to slightly RAISE the back wheel ..... roll the back wheel

onto a 2x4 or other solid surface, this will raise the bike a few inches

and give you elbow room to get the screws out and you'll have

no scraped knuckles :-)

Jerry

what size tires are you using. When in doubt, 32 pounds is usually a safe amount.

underneath the left hand crankcase cover