Turbo and Superchargers

Look under the hood, if it has a supercharger you'll see it, SC thunderbirds have badging on the fenders saying it also.

not really. You can get blowby in the turbo itself from high crankcase pressure, but a turbo won't cause engine blowby.

you can find cheap ones for around $400-$600 but a good one is around $1000

really depends on the car and the space available . if you are going to run 5-10 psi then it might be good on the engine you already have but any thing over 10 you would need a forged engine ( pistons and rods ) to make it strong enough turbo - 500 - 1 K conversion with flanges etc - 1000 fitting 1000, 1500 ecu & fitting 2000 so all up other including the above you are looking at a minimum of 5000 for a turbo setup.

If the turbo is dead there is no advantage to removing it unless you're also going to swap out the pistons for the 22RE pistons and same with the ECU. As much work as that is you might as well just replace the turbo.

Tops out at 900RPM

Stillen makes a superchager for the '05-'07 frontier for about 5k

It really depends on alot of things...

1. what vehicle, make/model/year you are looking to "boost"

2. how much you want to spend and who is installing it.

3. how much power you want ,what type of power your looking for. ( where it occurs)

1 & 2. Alot of vehicles, either only have turbo kits avail. or only supercharger kits. If it came with a turbo from the factory/ or had a turbo model avail. That would the cheapest/easiest way to go. Alot of "popular models" have both avail.( examples: mustangs, 350Z, corvette etc.) Custom "one off kits will get too expensive fast". Centrifugal supercharger kits are "usually" cheaper and easier to install ).

3. Everyone always wants "alot", If the vehicle is stock, adding 6-8psi is usually safe. Screw/roots superchargers are #1 if you love the install throttle response or low end torque. They are more eff. at low boost levels usually <12psi, whipples are rated up to 30psi but eff. will drop usually down to 60%. Hood clearance can be a problem with this type. They will drop fuel economy more than the other, but not too bad if it has the bypass valve is installed( it let the air bypass the roots during cruising.)

Centrifugal superchargers are cheaper, more eff. / easier to package than roots/screw chargers. The downside is that they have a linear boost. (I.E. 1 psi at 2000-2500rpms, 3psi at 4000rpms, 6psi at 6000rpm ) The other is belt durability/slipage. This can be partially fixed by using a BOV and overdrive it( use a 14psi pulley, and let the BOV limit the high end pressure back to the 6-8psi)

Turboes setup for a non turbo car, is usually the most expensing, but the most versitile, with options like boost per gear program, adjustable wate gates, the availability of using multiple turboes, plus there are about 20times more turbo sizes avail. than superchargers to more fit your needs. Getting used turboes from factory turbo cars from the junkyard can save you alot of money. Turbo kits can be made to give low rpm boost/torque, but they will limit topend power because of the size of the turbo/turboes. You need to choose where you want the power, If you want 20psi/high HP don't expect 20psi at 2000rpms. With todays turboes, full boost by 2500-3000psi is can be expected for street kits (6-12psi). Cruising at 1200rpm in high gear, you will get turbo lag, but throttle response at/above say 3000rpms, the response will be there.

The real deciding point is low end torque and the sound. Some people love/hate turbo whistle or supercharger whine.

twin = two

bi = two

Answer: no difference

In regards to turbochargers, CHRA is 'center housing/hub rotating assembly'.

The exhaust manifold and turbo from the 88-92 Mazda 626, MX-6, and Ford Probe turbo models will bolt onto the 86-93 B2000 and B2200. See the attached link for additional information.

you have to modify UIM and LIM notch the frame of your car. unless you get turbo 2 UIM and LIM but you will still have to modify the manifolds to accept the N/A Block. Also don't scimp on your fuel system.

(I'm in the process of doing this myself)

turbo chargers

Turbo 3 bar, or simply termed 3.0 bar, is whenever a turbocharger produced boost pressure of 27 psi, since 1.0 bar is equal to 9 psi.

The same way any other whistle would work. You blow and it makes sound. Where here your exhaust does the blowing

Yes

The term "Turbofan" is actually quite broad, but can be broken down into two categories…high and low bypass. The question you are really trying to ask is which engine type (high bypass or low bypass) turbofan engine is more efficient?

High bypass engines are used on most commercial airplanes (except the Concord) and these engines are favorable because they have a balance of high thrust, and efficiency.

Aircraft that need supersonic capabilities (like the Concord) use a low bypass turbofan engine. These engines produce the thrust required to propel a plane beyond the speed of sound, but at the cost of efficiency. They burn a lot of fuel in doing so.

So one could draw the conclusion that high bypass turbofan engines are more efficient, but this would not be true. In order to propel a plane beyond the speed of sound the low bypass turbofan engine is the most efficient way of doing so. On the flipside, the high bypass turbofan engine is most efficient for practical air travel. Both engine types are very different, but each are specialized to achieve different goals.

yes. look up supercharged Mazda rx8 on youtube

Check out Pettit Racing on Google.

10 - 12 PSI of boost in a RX8 is about 330 - 350 RWHP.

--- check out rx8club.com --- lots of good information on there to find out about your Mazda rx8, I have an '05 that I'm building up for turbo, everything you need to know or need to search about is posted about there...

Well, There's quite a few things you can do. Everythign ranging from Ordering parts like Headers, intake manifold, camshaft, nitrous, supercharger (or turbo), changing the settings in the ECU (Fuel injected motor). all kinds of stuff. the list goes on and on. Email me i can get you the parts :-) -chris 1987Formula@live.com

An intercooler is placed in the airflow path between the turbocharger and the engine intake in order to cool the air after it has been compressed by the turbo. Compressing air heats it up. By cooling it back down, the air becomes denser. This means more air molecules go into the cylinder. This (when mixed with the proper amount of fuel) increases engine power compared to a non-intercooled engine.

There are many ways in which you can increase the power in your engine, one being that you force more air into the cylinders, to do this you use a turbo, as the exhaust gasses leave the valves they travel through to the turbo charger, as they flow pass the fins they turn, the get faster and fater and they are on a shaft which is conected to more fins which then clows air at an increased rate, however the compressed air is hot which doesent help so it flows throug an intercooler which air passes and then cools the compressd air down as it travels into the cylinder with more fuel. more air means bigger compression so there is more explosion, therefore more power.

If your thinking of a turbo conversion, you have to think of uprgrading:

Conrods and pistons,

Cams and pulleys ( not essential)

Intercooler

Wastegate

Dump valve

Size of turbo as a smaller turbo will give more power at lower revs

gaskets

fuel mix

air filters

spark plugs and lead

bottem end, sleved

anda bit more

7.3 turbo

It depends on make/model/yr, what you want from the turbo kit, how much power you want, rpm power range. A T4/T3 50trim up to (475hp). a GT3782 or T61 to (525hp)Bullseye/borg warner s258 would work to 650hp.

Air filter prevents dust particle entering the cumbustion chamber,however it restrict the passage of air, adding air filter will not increase the mileage in general, regular cleaning/replacement is necessary to prevent increase in restriction of air passage through it.